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Old 06-20-2005, 01:49 PM   #2746
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Originally Posted by Roger
Thanks Jav. That would be kewl if you can make it on the 15th of July. I have a few other Xray guys coming down. Hopefully, John Hicks can make it with us. We'll all be loading up in my honda ody van. It should be a fun day of practice. Until then, i'll see you there.

Yes, I will be racing the regionals at SW
Kewl, yea the 15th would be my normal "every other Friday" practice day, so the track will be in optimal condition (i.e. blown off and fresh traction juice layed down)
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Old 06-20-2005, 03:20 PM   #2747
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Jav: We should be there before 10:30am, so if Billy needs help preping the track, we can help out. I'll shoot you an e-mail a week before to let you know.
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Old 06-20-2005, 03:31 PM   #2748
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Jav: We should be there before 10:30am, so if Billy needs help preping the track, we can help out. I'll shoot you an e-mail a week before to let you know.
Track doesn't open till 11:00am on Friday ...I got the prep covered so no sweat ...yea shoot me an email sounds kewl!!
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Old 06-21-2005, 10:31 PM   #2749
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I completed more anti-dive/anti-squat/roll center testing today on carpet with foams. I decided to try a happy medium between the rear arm high roll center anti-squat position (#6 & #3) I had tested all last week on carpet/foams, and the lowest roll center flat position (#2 & #1) I had used on asphalt this past Saturday. I'm still using the front arms in the high roll center anti-dive positions of #4 & #5, but I had to adjust a few things in order to dial in the correct amount of steering and rear end grip with the new rear roll center. Here are all of the changes:

* The new rear anti-squat mount positions are #4 & #1
* Increased the shock oil weight from Trinity 70wt to 90wt on all four shocks
* Opened the shock piston holes up from 1 to 2 open in front and from 2 to 4 open in rear
* Decreased front camber from -1.75d to -1.5d
* Decreased rear camber from -1.5d to -0.5d

The car was definitely faster than it has ever been in the corners, runs very flat and produces even tire wear, in spite of very low camber settings on both ends. It was also pretty easy to drive through tight parts of the track while running side by side with other cars, without bumping them. The setup favors drivers who like to get on the gas early and use full throttle from the apex through corner exit. The rear end definitely rotates around corners with a very predictable and stable slipping feel as the car hits the apex. But there is no overrotation in rear end roll and it immediately grips the surface once the throttle is applied or steering input is reduced. In the past, any kind of rotation in the rear always led to disaster for me. Hence, it took a few laps for me to realize that it wasn't going to oversteer no matter how fast I dived in at high corner speeds or how hard I yanked on the throttle.

As expected, the front/rear weight transition, that gives a delayed feeling of grip during throttle transition, was all but eliminated. The car steered pretty effortlessly through all of the corners and I noticed that I was turning the steering wheel on the transmitter less to make the corners, even though I had already dialed out 5 points on my EPA settings.

At first, I ran the track clockwise with the more neutral Proline Nemesis body. The clockwise configuration is more flowing with a long straight ending with a wide double apex right sweeper (on-power), two tight right handers (off-power), two narrow double-apex-left-then-right switchbacks (on-power) and a standard chicane (on-power). The car worked great and was easy to drive fast.

Then it got even better! I ran the track backwards with the more aggressive steering Proline Mazda 6 body. This configuration is a little more tight & a lot more technical with a wide double apex left sweeper (on-power) that enters into the long straight, ending abruptly at the chicane (hard braking & then on-power), two narrow left-right switchbacks (on-power), two tight right handers (off-power), and one tight left hander (off-power) leading back onto the double apex left sweeper.

I had originally thought that the more aggressive front downforce from the Mazda 6 body would cause the now harder compound 35 shore rear tires I'd just put on to step out on corner entry. But the anti-dive worked wonders and the entire car ended up cutting even tighter lines with a more planted feel both front and rear. She was definitely on rails I'd never attained before.

The low roll center anti-squat setting also helped the FK05's light rear end plant firmly at mid corner and then quickly raise up to place more weight forward and allow the MultiDiff, in full one-way configuration, to pull the car with AUTHORITY once the throttle was applied.

I have been getting a lot more smooth with my steering, but I still prefer to power out of corners, rather than coasting through them and then hitting the gas once the car is pointed towards the next corner. If the gearing is right, this normally provides a faster entry speed at the next corner in order to pass on the inside. If your style matches mine and you LOVE on-power steering, then I'd highly suggest trying out this setup for foams on carpet.

http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/xform...8&setup=t1fk05

Last edited by teamgp; 06-22-2005 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 06-23-2005, 12:53 AM   #2750
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What size 64dp gear is good for the T1FK05 .... I have 116 tooth will this be OK?? or should I get smaller?
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Old 06-23-2005, 02:55 AM   #2751
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116 is the biggest you can go to wit the 2.0mm chassis. You can just get away with 118 using the std 2.5mm chassis.
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Old 06-23-2005, 10:46 PM   #2752
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Heh guys, need some help. Just finished building the new kit. Looks amazing, but I can't seem to get the car lower than 6mm. The shock collars are all the way up, and the car is loaded with battery, etc. I compress the car and let settle, then check ride height; 6mm. Help. Also has anyone had problems with the suspension getting stiction. I reamed the a-arms, and they flopped until I attached the ball cups. They stuck, so I tried another set, same problem. Is this common, and if so what do you do to fix it?
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Old 06-24-2005, 12:58 AM   #2753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
What size 64dp gear is good for the T1FK05 .... I have 116 tooth will this be OK?? or should I get smaller?
I'm running a 120 spur 64p gear and have no problems with the stock 2.5...
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:00 AM   #2754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Heh guys, need some help. Just finished building the new kit. Looks amazing, but I can't seem to get the car lower than 6mm. The shock collars are all the way up, and the car is loaded with battery, etc. I compress the car and let settle, then check ride height; 6mm. Help. Also has anyone had problems with the suspension getting stiction. I reamed the a-arms, and they flopped until I attached the ball cups. They stuck, so I tried another set, same problem. Is this common, and if so what do you do to fix it?

I had the same problem make sure that all the spring retainers are all the way down on the shock ends. Hope this helps
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:16 AM   #2755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Heh guys, need some help. Just finished building the new kit. Looks amazing, but I can't seem to get the car lower than 6mm. The shock collars are all the way up, and the car is loaded with battery, etc. I compress the car and let settle, then check ride height; 6mm. Help. Also has anyone had problems with the suspension getting stiction. I reamed the a-arms, and they flopped until I attached the ball cups. They stuck, so I tried another set, same problem. Is this common, and if so what do you do to fix it?
I know this might sound obvious, but did you make sure you've threaded the shock ends in far enough?
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Old 06-24-2005, 04:28 AM   #2756
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And have you screwed you shock tops down fully?

95% of people ive seen with an xray, havent built there shocks properly

Not saying that i didnt do it the first time i ever built a set
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Old 06-24-2005, 06:43 AM   #2757
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What size tires are you running?
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Old 06-24-2005, 08:15 AM   #2758
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As I'm sure many of you folks know, screwing the shock tops onto the shaft is super HARD to do! I didn't get it down far enough the first time around but then I discovered this AWESOME tool from Team Tamale which helped without scoring the shaft rod!



Well worth the $25 bucks from www.teamtamale.com. I was FINALLY able to get the shock top screwed in all the way. Of course that didn't stop me from using a little bit of a shock oil in the hole first before putting it on.
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Old 06-24-2005, 08:50 AM   #2759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Heh guys, need some help. Just finished building the new kit. Looks amazing, but I can't seem to get the car lower than 6mm. The shock collars are all the way up, and the car is loaded with battery, etc. I compress the car and let settle, then check ride height; 6mm. Help. Also has anyone had problems with the suspension getting stiction. I reamed the a-arms, and they flopped until I attached the ball cups. They stuck, so I tried another set, same problem. Is this common, and if so what do you do to fix it?
As far as the ball cups go, I assume you mean the rear ones because they have to be perfect to move freely. Meaning, they have to be at a perfect 90 degree angle from one another when building. You can tweak them while adjusting on a setup station and get them out of alignment. Just a mm or 2 is enough to make them bind.
If the front are binding, you'll have to take out the steel pivot balls and put them back in to loosen up the plastic.
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:08 AM   #2760
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Yeah, the shocks were a pain, but I was expecting that so I spent extra time with them. The shock ends are screwed on all the way and the ball ends at the bottom are where they should be. I used digital calipers and measured the length. As far as tires, I'm using stock rubber; Yokomo dish, Yokomo thin inserts, and Sorex 32r. The problem with the stiction seems to be in the ball cups. Without the shocks on, the arms still seem to stick. I may just try diferent ball cups and balls and see if that fixes it. The arms themsleves don't seem to be binding; I reemed the arms so the flop pretty easy. I also checked to see if the shims were the problem, but the arms still have a slight bit if play. The balls and cups just seem like they don't have enough play. I'll try a couple more things, but if they still bind, then I'm off to different ball and cups and Tamiya TRF shocks. No one else has this issue?
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