Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

On the soundness of tuning options for people who hit the boards twice per lap:

amen

Paul

Patriiick

iTrader: (3)

aaaammmenn Bro'

May i say you look stunning in that cow outfit

aantonis

It is suggested by Hudy himself under the tips and tricks section of the xray website..... pfff... what can you say...

nnick

iTrader: (1)

Still Jilles removed them at Reedy!! He used 2mm chassis too!

Nick

Michal101

iTrader: (13)

True, it is only 0.5 thinner than the stock chassis but it equates to a 20% thinner chassis which is a lot.

Just a passing thought!

teamgp

I've seen a few people remove the middle screws from the bottom of each bulkhead, all the posts, and the two top deck mounting screws in between the motor mount screw and the rearmost screws.

Scho

cool

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

Sweet!

MartynD

Whats a set of bulkheads cost? Think they are around $180 cdn. Removing screws from the bulkhead is STUPID if you have a tendency to hit immovable objects from time to time. I've seen one set of bent bulkheads caused by following the Tip outlined on the XRay website, and then during normal racing coming into contact with something. The driver that did it, is one of the top drivers in the GTA (Toronto area)

Find other ways to add more flex.....

teamgp

I agree. Although I wouldn't call others who disagree stupid.

I used to race motorcycles and it was interesting watching the likes of Honda and Zooky play around with chassis flex in order to get the much smaller than a car's tire rear contact patch to put the power to the ground. They ended up with two problems. 1) Chassis flex and its effect on handling is mildly unpredictable at best for all types of situations that occur within a race. 2) Insurance rates for the average rider increased with the huge increase of total lossed claims due to bent chassis'. They also ended up with one solution. Stick with a predictable, rigid & very stable chassis like the green machines had. No wonder EBoz spanked em at first so bad with the 750 when they had all moved up to "flexin" 1000's.

I'm a firm believer that if you've tuned any vehicles suspension correctly, with a rigid chassis, it will be more predictable and consistently faster in a race. But it normally takes a good deal more time to dial in the setup and any tiny deviations from such setup are very uncomfortably noticeable.

John Q

iTrader: (5)

ok guys problem. I striped out one of the screws on the bottom that hold the front bulk head on to the chassis. Any ideas with messing the chassis up to much... ?

HRCRACER123

iTrader: (33)

Dude I did the same thing exept I stripped out 2 of them. long story short. I had to spend $109.00 for a set of bulkheads. Do yourself a favor spend the $17.00 on the hudy 2mm driver. It solved my problems with stripping out the screws. As far as getting it out I had to drill the heads off mine and then I couldn't get the stupid screw out.

Steve Bahnatka

iTrader: (5)

John Q , if only one screw is stripped out, take off the top deck from the front bulkheads...and push againt the stripped screw with a finger while you wiggle the bulheads back and forth...hope this helps-Steve

teamgp

Or remove the two good screws and the top deck and then twist the bulkhead counter clockwise on the stripped screw. This should loosen its hold and allow you to get it out with little effort. I've tried the drill method too many times and have ended up nowhere.

polesitter61

iTrader: (4)

I have drilled off the heads and made it work. After you drill them off and remove the bulkhead, if you don't use to big of a drill bit, there should be a small portion of the screw sticking out. Cut a slot in it with a dremel tool, heat the bulkhead, and presto.... the screw will come out easy with a small screwdriver. I have used this method a couple of times, worked every time. Just be careful not to drill to deep or the screw won't be sticking out of the bulk, then you get a slot in the bulk to with the dremel.