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Old 06-16-2005, 04:00 AM   #2701
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On the soundness of tuning options for people who hit the boards twice per lap:

amen

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Old 06-16-2005, 04:09 AM   #2702
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aaaammmenn Bro'

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Old 06-16-2005, 04:49 AM   #2703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scho
Just actually in the progress oof switching back to Xray, a few people over here have been taking a coulpe of screws out of the bulkheads under the car.
It is suggested by Hudy himself under the tips and tricks section of the xray website..... pfff... what can you say...
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Old 06-16-2005, 04:49 AM   #2704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scho
Yup on high bite surfaces posts are worth leaving in
Still Jilles removed them at Reedy!! He used 2mm chassis too!

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Old 06-16-2005, 07:43 AM   #2705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdoc
I just wonder, except in extreme track conditions, and maybe even then. with all the different ways to run the car (stand offs, all or some of them, soft thru stiff top plates), plus all the other things you can adjust, how many of us think we could really tell the difference in .5 thickness of the chassi............
True, it is only 0.5 thinner than the stock chassis but it equates to a 20% thinner chassis which is a lot.

Just a passing thought!
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Old 06-16-2005, 07:51 AM   #2706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scho
Just actually in the progress oof switching back to Xray, a few people over here have been taking a coulpe of screws out of the bulkheads under the car.
I've seen a few people remove the middle screws from the bottom of each bulkhead, all the posts, and the two top deck mounting screws in between the motor mount screw and the rearmost screws.
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Old 06-16-2005, 07:57 AM   #2707
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cool
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Old 06-16-2005, 09:42 AM   #2708
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Sweet!
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:35 PM   #2709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
I've seen a few people remove the middle screws from the bottom of each bulkhead, all the posts, and the two top deck mounting screws in between the motor mount screw and the rearmost screws.
Whats a set of bulkheads cost? Think they are around $180 cdn. Removing screws from the bulkhead is STUPID if you have a tendency to hit immovable objects from time to time. I've seen one set of bent bulkheads caused by following the Tip outlined on the XRay website, and then during normal racing coming into contact with something. The driver that did it, is one of the top drivers in the GTA (Toronto area)

Find other ways to add more flex.....
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:02 PM   #2710
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I agree. Although I wouldn't call others who disagree stupid.

I used to race motorcycles and it was interesting watching the likes of Honda and Zooky play around with chassis flex in order to get the much smaller than a car's tire rear contact patch to put the power to the ground. They ended up with two problems. 1) Chassis flex and its effect on handling is mildly unpredictable at best for all types of situations that occur within a race. 2) Insurance rates for the average rider increased with the huge increase of total lossed claims due to bent chassis'. They also ended up with one solution. Stick with a predictable, rigid & very stable chassis like the green machines had. No wonder EBoz spanked em at first so bad with the 750 when they had all moved up to "flexin" 1000's.

I'm a firm believer that if you've tuned any vehicles suspension correctly, with a rigid chassis, it will be more predictable and consistently faster in a race. But it normally takes a good deal more time to dial in the setup and any tiny deviations from such setup are very uncomfortably noticeable.
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:11 PM   #2711
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ok guys problem. I striped out one of the screws on the bottom that hold the front bulk head on to the chassis. Any ideas with messing the chassis up to much... ?
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:28 PM   #2712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Q
ok guys problem. I striped out one of the screws on the bottom that hold the front bulk head on to the chassis. Any ideas with messing the chassis up to much... ?
Dude I did the same thing exept I stripped out 2 of them. long story short. I had to spend $109.00 for a set of bulkheads. Do yourself a favor spend the $17.00 on the hudy 2mm driver. It solved my problems with stripping out the screws. As far as getting it out I had to drill the heads off mine and then I couldn't get the stupid screw out.
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:41 PM   #2713
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John Q , if only one screw is stripped out, take off the top deck from the front bulkheads...and push againt the stripped screw with a finger while you wiggle the bulheads back and forth...hope this helps-Steve
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:44 PM   #2714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Bahnatka
John Q , if only one screw is stripped out, take off the top deck from the front bulkheads...and push againt the stripped screw with a finger while you wiggle the bulheads back and forth...hope this helps-Steve
Or remove the two good screws and the top deck and then twist the bulkhead counter clockwise on the stripped screw. This should loosen its hold and allow you to get it out with little effort. I've tried the drill method too many times and have ended up nowhere.
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Old 06-16-2005, 03:38 PM   #2715
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I have drilled off the heads and made it work. After you drill them off and remove the bulkhead, if you don't use to big of a drill bit, there should be a small portion of the screw sticking out. Cut a slot in it with a dremel tool, heat the bulkhead, and presto.... the screw will come out easy with a small screwdriver. I have used this method a couple of times, worked every time. Just be careful not to drill to deep or the screw won't be sticking out of the bulk, then you get a slot in the bulk to with the dremel.
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