Barry White

What is the rolling chassis weight?

dgullickson

iTrader: (45)

We just got a new batch of thrust bearings in and I will offer a buy 1 get 1 free up till this Sunday. Just order from www.axiommotors.com on the homepage and I will match however many you buy..

blr

Hey,

What mods have you guys made to your car to get 28mm foams to fit on your cars without rubbing on the lower shock mount. I have had to grind on the arms (more than the instructions stated) and grind on the lower shock mount itself. Any suggestions and/or pics would be greatly appreciated.

MartynD

Gotta say Dave, the thrust bearings you sell are still going strong for me, the diff feels much like it did freshly rebuilt. Another racer at our track replaced his with the XRay carbide and it is already failing, while yours at 1/3 the price is working great.

V12

iTrader: (1)

Without additional weight itīs about 1420 gramms including body.

teamgp

1301 grams with everything (w/ 56.5mm foams) but the body and clips. 1428 with my heavily painted & shoe gooed body and clips. But with a less intricate paint scheme and no shoe gooo on the fender wells I can normally get my bodies to weigh around 100 to 110 grams.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Just use the center hole on the arms. Myself and others have found the mod puts the shock at a binding angle and the rim still rubs the ball end on the shock shaft, when you use the outer hole on the arm.

teamgp

I agree. I use the inner mounts, dremelled down flush with the arm, and I'm able to run 30mm rears. I use the third hole in on the rear tower (keeps the rear shocks about a few degrees more verticle than the front shocks mounted in the outer holes of their tower) and 5lbs less spring rate than the front. The rear ends up being just slightly less stiff than the front with a little bit less rate of progression. When entering corners, the initial softer rate allows the rear end grip to catch up to the front before reaching mid corner, but since they are stood up slightly more, it allows more weight to stay on the front when getting on the gas before the apex and exiting the corners (aggressive driving style). I've found this only works well with a combination of a lot of caster (6d) and a one-way, which provides excellent corner exit steering (even coming out of tight corners).

jdm19turn

iTrader: (1)

has any of you guys tryed putting ceramic diff balls in the diffs of the xray fk05 i have and the drivetrain is supersmooth

MartynD

I run ceramic balls, the diff action now is a little strange. When turning one wheel by hand and holding the other wheel and spur, I get a stick-slip feel. The diff rings also can be felt sliding on the outdrive. Having said all that I do not notice anything strange on the track. This has been reported by several users on the teamxray forums as well.

Smartarse88

Well you won't be seeing me at the front on the Rizla bike again as we have gone our separate ways!!! (I have been fired). However I should be out there again soon!

I am running the rear wishbone flat at the moment, rear anti squat (front higher) will give less grip under acc. and therefore more steering. It does this by effectively stiffening the rear end up as you are on the gas. Because of this less weight transfers backwards. It can also mean that the rear doesn't get overloaded - the old car used to transfer a lot of weight back and roll on to the outside rear if you were not smooth. You can there fore run softer springs getting more roll mid corner and possibly more grip. Its all a balance.

I do often run anti dive at the front. The opposite to kick up, so the front of the arm lower. This transfers less weight to the front under braking and can help stop the rear being unloaded and losing grip. It was running that with foams (the one time I ran foams on carpet) and often outside on rubber. Been trying rubber on carpet and have put the wishbone level to get a bit more entry and mid steering. With anti dive front end the front stays lower under acc. and helps reduce rearward weight transfer. I like it outdoors with mod motors as the reduced weight transfer front to rear keeps the car feelinglinear as my driving style is too aggressive and basically rubbish! But then again I can't fall off and hurt myself........

Cheers
Smarty

S-T-R-l-K-E-R

i cant get the reedy race set-up of jilles from the website.
i registered but still waiting for the activation.
i would really appreciate it if anyone is kind enough to post the set-up.

thanks in advance.

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

I'd love to, but they still have not worked out the bugs in the way they present the setup sheets. For some stupid reason, they are not using PDF.
Its some sort of code that basically gets wacky when you try to print it. It comes out in two pages and everything gets scrunched together and cuts off things. There is no way of saving it unless you save the code, but it's so screwed up you wouldn't want it.
You basically have to write down everything onto a new sheet. And quite frankly, I'm too lazy for that.
A real pain in the ass.
They really dropped the ball on whoever came up with the format for it.

THeGame

Here's Most of Jilles setup..

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, i was also thinking of screen capturing.
Still though, a pain in the a$$.