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Old 05-23-2005, 08:02 AM   #2386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Re-read my post. I did rebiuld it using the included Xray grease. I think something in the assembly is warping as the diff heats up during the run. I'm really not sure.
Could be the diff rings slipping... Some guys around here mentioned a "slip-stick" effect... Not expert in this, but the cure is to glue the diff rings to the outdrives, carefully, using some super-thin, high-Q CA. Mine is prepped that way and feels like new after 30 packs (with the upgraded thrust bearing of course). Thanks George if you read this, btw

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Old 05-23-2005, 08:11 AM   #2387
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Hmm I get the stick then slip effect when I hold the spur and one wheel and try to turn the other wheel.

When I just try turn one wheel she is very smooth. It does feel like its a diff ring slipping...

Is it a simple process to get the diff rings off when its time to change them after gluing?
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:19 AM   #2388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartynD
Hmm I get the stick then slip effect when I hold the spur and one wheel and try to turn the other wheel.

When I just try turn one wheel she is very smooth. It does feel like its a diff ring slipping...

Is it a simple process to get the diff rings off when its time to change them after gluing?
to be honest with you... I have no idea! I just hope it happens as late as possible. My understanding is that when prepped correctly, the xray diffs last quite a while (especially compared to my Yokomo SD's haha)

Cheers
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:22 AM   #2389
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btw don't mistake a slipping diff with the above described "slip-stick" (sorry again if not correct word) effect... The first one is due to an incorrect assembly-adjustment (diff too loose...) and the second one happens under heat (ie prolonged load)... What you might just described could be just a simple slipping diff!

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Old 05-23-2005, 09:26 AM   #2390
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well i get a stick-slip effect. As you try to turn the wheel it sticks and then slips. (when holding the spur and other wheel) and it does this no matter the setting of the diff, when it is cold or hot. I am running ceramic balls and have replaced the thrust bearing. I have had the diff apart may times, and I am sure it is assembled correctly.

Sometimes when it is stuck... as you turn it you can actually hear/feel the diff ring slipping.
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:13 AM   #2391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
How in the heck do you get the snap ring out of the rear diff to replace the thrust bearing ... I have not got any pliers thin enough to get in the holes? Please someone help I need to fix this before I race the car tomorrow????

Thanks
I ended up grinding down a pair of long nose pliers to do the job.
You need a set of snap ring (circlip) pliers
Do a search on UK ebay there are a few around quite cheap!
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:17 AM   #2392
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Martyn:

have you tried using steel balls??? I get the same effect with ceramics but not steel.
also do you sand your diff rings... with the ceramics I did (with 2000 grit) and this helped but it took for ever and you need a flat surface (like glass or granite plate).

Thanks
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:24 AM   #2393
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Hey Tim,

Before I replaced the thrust bearing I was using the kit supplied balls, and didn't have the stick-slip effect, though the diffs felt horrid.

I only noticed this when I 'upgraded' to ceramics. I don't know if its affecting the handling of my car or not. Seeing as I replaced one of my diffs with a multi-diff, I can rebuild that diff with steel balls and compare the two, though I am still waiting on my replacement thrusts from XRay. I don't have any thrusts to use with it for the moment, and I can wait.
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Old 05-23-2005, 02:55 PM   #2394
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I have a general question. Just finished building the car per instructions and have noticed that when the car is picked up there is a gap between the top of the rear yellow spring and the adjusting collar. The car is setup with a 5.5mm ride height, and 3mm of droop. Is this normal with the yellow spring as the front white springs don't seem to have this issue. Thanks
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:00 PM   #2395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M LANE
I have a general question. Just finished building the car per instructions and have noticed that when the car is picked up there is a gap between the top of the rear yellow spring and the adjusting collar. The car is setup with a 5.5mm ride height, and 3mm of droop. Is this normal with the yellow spring as the front white springs don't seem to have this issue. Thanks
Thats normal, with 3mm of droop, when you pick up the car the shocks will extend farther than the actual spring size. What matters is when its under its own weight. Typically the rear has more travel than the front.
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:46 PM   #2396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydo
Thats normal, with 3mm of droop, when you pick up the car the shocks will extend farther than the actual spring size. What matters is when its under its own weight. Typically the rear has more travel than the front.
Yea ..that plus, put the car on the ground an push one side all the way down (i.e. like a "hard corner" ...the other side does not "lift up" enough to extend past the spring.
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:26 AM   #2397
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Very nice car.
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Old 05-24-2005, 12:12 PM   #2398
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Martyn:

Hi,

e mail me your address and I'll send you some. I bought a few of the bronze coloured ones for back ups then I bought complete diffs.

Thanks

[email protected]
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Old 05-24-2005, 12:16 PM   #2399
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Hi Tim,

Thanks for the offer, but its ok. I gave my spare Axiom thrust to another racer in need. I only run one diff, so I can wait for the new ones to arrive. I just don't see the point of spending the money (or asking anyone else to donate lol) when I have freebies on the way, and my car works...

BTW do you sand the ring on the side against the balls, or against the outdrive?
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Old 05-24-2005, 12:50 PM   #2400
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Just got FK 05. Any pro/cons re: any other spur gears than the stock 84t? Running Monster Stock & 19t
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