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Old 05-13-2005, 11:56 PM   #2266
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Not all of the shops get parts through official channels...

As soon as Korgae has the parts he'll be distributing them as required...
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Old 05-14-2005, 07:51 AM   #2267
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Quote:
Originally posted by sportracer
JUst got my FK05 today was wondering do you need to soak the belts in anything tomake them more flexible .

thanks
No real advantage from soaking the belts ... just run them as loose as possible without them skipping. For stock, try running one tooth looser then the manual, both front and back. 19T run as the manual states, and for mod, run what the manual lists - and as the belt is broken-in, you'll probably want to go one tooth tighter on the front belt.

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Old 05-14-2005, 08:38 AM   #2268
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I run 1 tooth looser on the belts than kit instructions, on both front and back for 19T and stock, and they are fine.
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Old 05-14-2005, 12:08 PM   #2269
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Default Re: Axiom Thrust bearings

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Originally posted by MartynD
Well, I installed the Axiom Thrust assembly in my car tonight. I had been using a used XRay thrust assembly as the original ones in my kit failed. The diff is sweet now! With the used one the diff actually felt worse than with the failed kit thrust, but now the diff is nice and smooth. If you can't wait for the XRay exchange give the Axiom thrust a try, its alot cheaper than buying the OEM part. (I could buy about 4 Axiom for one XRay assembly)

Also ran one of Axiom's tuned C2's, geez... before tonight I had only run Reedy QM's in 19T... well I dropped my personal best by 4 tenths!! Though my consistency isn't where I'd like it to be... I certainly had the speed. The fast guys are doing 9.6's - 9.5's... I am finally doing under 10! so that made my weekend +)

One of the local shops in the Toronto area, said they would be getting the thrusts in within a week or so.. yet the distributor told me they were weeks away...

Glad you liked! I can barely keep these in stock now but I just ordered another 500 so that should last awhile. Our 19's are wicked fast right now after I found some tricks with the comm.
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Old 05-14-2005, 08:26 PM   #2270
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Just a question.

How fast can you change the spur gear in this car? It looks like that you have to dissemble the rear bulkhead to take out the adapter....
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Old 05-14-2005, 08:56 PM   #2271
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I am sure this has been covered somewhere in this thread, but no way I am gonna find it, but what is the easiest way to unsieze the screws that go through carbon and into aluminum. No matter how loos I screw them in, in seems they get seized in and I dont want to dremel them out and ruin a chassis..
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Old 05-14-2005, 08:58 PM   #2272
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Quote:
Originally posted by B&O
Just a question.

How fast can you change the spur gear in this car? It looks like that you have to dissemble the rear bulkhead to take out the adapter....
It's not that bad you just have to remove the right side bulkhead (9 screws). It me takes about 10 minutes.
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Old 05-14-2005, 09:15 PM   #2273
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thanks duckman and martyn I'll just run it with an old motor to break it in.
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Old 05-14-2005, 09:39 PM   #2274
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Yup, its easiest to remove right rear bulkhead, 10 minutes sounds about right, if pushed for time might be possible to do it quicker... I remove the screws in the rear of the top deck, and the top screw from motor mount. I then remove the screws in the shock tower on right side, including the camber link oops and the right shock. Then remove screws for bulkhead. Remove rear battery brace mount if you use it. When removing the rear diff, I remove top screw in left shock tower and loosen lower one so you can pivot tower out of the way, may have to do that as well to change spur, not sure. I will find out tomorrow, as I will be replacing mine for the first time. I've had the rear diff out lots though.
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Old 05-14-2005, 09:42 PM   #2275
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Quote:
Originally posted by chach
I am sure this has been covered somewhere in this thread, but no way I am gonna find it, but what is the easiest way to unsieze the screws that go through carbon and into aluminum. No matter how loos I screw them in, in seems they get seized in and I dont want to dremel them out and ruin a chassis..
Chach... what are you using for tools? I had this problem when using cheap allen keys. Since I went to decent tools no more problem...

You can try soldering an allen key to the screw, though it may or may not be strong enough.

A suggestion to try... if the you have only one screw seized in the part... take any others out and see if you can turn the part not the screw...
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Old 05-15-2005, 12:59 AM   #2276
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Quote:
Originally posted by chach
I am sure this has been covered somewhere in this thread, but no way I am gonna find it, but what is the easiest way to unsieze the screws that go through carbon and into aluminum. No matter how loos I screw them in, in seems they get seized in and I dont want to dremel them out and ruin a chassis..
Yeah, precision tools are a must for those screws. Invest some money in a good set of metric hex drivers. (They will save you the headache of trying to get those stubborn screws out!)
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Old 05-15-2005, 08:13 AM   #2277
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I had that happen on one of my rear bulks, I drilled the head off the screw with a small drill bit. Then once I got the bulkend off, it had just a little sticking out of the bulk. I then cut a small slot in it with my dremel tool, then I heated the bulk by the screw and spun it out with a small straight screw driver. Once you put the heat to it, it will come out easily.
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Old 05-15-2005, 09:56 AM   #2278
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I have this screw extractor that works really well. I drilled through the screw witha bit just smaller then the shaft then put the extractor in (it looks like a backwards drill bit) hit it with a small hammer very lightly then spun it backwards and they came out. Worked every single time.
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Old 05-15-2005, 10:51 AM   #2279
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Had the same problem last night.Took the car to a friend of mine and he drilled the heads off.The screws then came out no problem!!
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Old 05-15-2005, 01:39 PM   #2280
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i've never had a problem with any of the screws when using my Hudy drivers
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