=MisFitz= NuKe

Well...I will tell you what I got with mine, then you can decide.
I ordered spare belts (one front, one rear), spare from arms, spare steering knuckles (both of which I am yet to brake). If you don't want to buy aluminum caster blocks, try the plastic, but try out 3, 4.5, and 6 degree (at least for asphalt). An old style diff to turn into a spool. Diff rebuild "kit". Get some different springs: for asphalt - light blue, dark blue (along with what comes with the car). Possibly the impact absorbing bumper. I also got the battery brace and aluminum shock bodies.

Kody

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the info.

What about this XRAY Multi-Diff, http://www.thercshack.com/index.asp?...OD&ProdID=2456

Looks like this might be somthing to look at...

Kody

=MisFitz= NuKe

Ya, I mean that is what most people are going to buy, but I never use one-ways...and I still don't know what a one-way spool is, so I went old-school.

stinkypop

iTrader: (1)

Are you putting a pin through the diff? Please explain its all new for me

big_G

I think this is referring to the X Ray Multi Diff

3 options

1. standard 1 way with both wheels operating independantly

2. 1 way with both wheels working same

3. add apin and you have a spool

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

Yea get the multidiff instead ...you can turn it into a spool, a oneway or a locked oneway (feels hecka wierd in locked oneway mode ...to me anyways). Also spring steel hubs for t least your front end, the stock alu ones tend to mushrrom out if you hit to much stuff or lock-to-lock your wheels when turning ...then you gotta perform major surgery to get them out of the steering blocsk after that.

stinkypop

iTrader: (1)

=MisFitz= NuKe

Ahh, I forgot about the front spring steel axles. I put those on my car when I was first building it.

Jimmy Morris

iTrader: (9)

Discount Auto Parts. I tried Lowes and they didn't have it. It was about 6 bucks for a huge can of it. I'll be sure to let u know how it looks after a few weekends. I hope just as good as it does now.

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know of a hobby shop that current has a spool in stock? (the oringal unit, rc america I dont think is getting anymore in stock...)

Also just a note about the arms, I am pretty sure that the new car comes with the new hard arms however they are not marked (although when you try to depress them down they dont flex, where as the old ones twisted right off the droop screws) so if you replace an arm or order a new arm just take note of that.

Also I would highly suggest the p-dub/rubberneck racing bumper, saved me about $50 worth of front end parts at every race i go to, lol.

Jon Williams

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, the stock arms feel the like hard ones--I agree.

Sorry, Mark. Most places are out of the old school spool.

Tony Szep

Thats cool ill be out to race some TC soon give me a call when your headding down to halo and ill come run with ya. Your X-ray is so damn sweet where did you go to get that done?

=MisFitz= NuKe

Alright...so, I guess I am going to have to join the club of people who are complaining about the main drive bearings. I don't hit the walls very often, but this time it was quite hard. I broke a steering knuckle and bent a dogbone. I looked at my car a few minutes ago, and noticed a clicking in the drivetrain. Well, both bearings in the steering knuckle that was cracked are messed up, and all four!!! of the rear bearings in the rear uprights. I have no idea how you can mess up that many bearings in two weekends. Nothing like this has ever happened. Just amazing!!!

-Mike

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

My Theory about the bearings is that they are not lubed at the factory. They're bone dry just like the diffs. The friction is destroying them both

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

I'm sportin a set of Acer ceramic bearings now so no more worries for me ...got the axiom motors thrust bearing in todays mail as well so I'll be swapin those badboys out tomorrow.