1LikesXray T1FK05
04-25-2005, 07:22 AM
#2011
Re: Re: Re: Thrust bearings...
Im running the rubber setup from the xray site, with blue22.5 in the front, white 17.5 in the rear, 30 xray oil, 1 hole all the way around (turned all the way to the right then 1 click back). The rear diff is in the low position, I raised it to the middle and it got worst. I also raised the front roll center and it didnt help either. I also tried CS22, 27, 32 with the same results. Im running on very very very high traction concrete. One last thing is that Ive tried sway bars with each size.
Originally posted by kidDynomite
Midnight, I'd say less droop, but what's you're entire current set-up with the car, tires and track conditions?
Midnight, I'd say less droop, but what's you're entire current set-up with the car, tires and track conditions?
04-25-2005, 08:07 AM
#2012
Re: Re: Re: Re: Thrust bearings...
Originally posted by Midnight
Im running on very very very high traction concrete. One last thing is that Ive tried sway bars with each size.
Im running on very very very high traction concrete. One last thing is that Ive tried sway bars with each size.
Make sure you press on the car so the chassis is bottom out and try to lift the wheel up, install the shim(s) until you can’t lift the wheel up anymore. That might help.
04-25-2005, 08:25 AM
#2013
Just don't add too many shims or your adjusters won't work right if you have the adjustable pistons installed.
Tim
Tim
04-25-2005, 09:37 AM
#2014
Tech Initiate
Tim,
I think komkit meant shims on the outside of the shock body, not travel limiting ones on the inside, piston adjustment will still work as it works at max extension not compression.
Also Midnight, turned all the way to the right (one hole open) then back one will be two holes open surely?
-Scott
I think komkit meant shims on the outside of the shock body, not travel limiting ones on the inside, piston adjustment will still work as it works at max extension not compression.
Also Midnight, turned all the way to the right (one hole open) then back one will be two holes open surely?
-Scott
04-25-2005, 09:44 AM
#2015
In no way am I bashing xray. I just need to know can I use my yokomo shocks or can I use these tamiya Part #: TAM53571. If so can I still use my yokomo springs and will the adjustable pistons still work. Sorry for the dumb questions, but a guy PM me and ask if I had any oil in my shocks, and at first I was like are you kidding me I just built them a week ago (15 packs). He explained that he had the same problem. He also said he switched to the aluminum bodies and they havent leaked since. I would rather switch to the aluminum 27 is cheaper than 65, and I can stay xray all the way around, but I dont want to dump 27 and still be in the same boat Im already in.
Once again sorry for being so long winded, but this car is off the chain until this traction roll problem.
Thanks in advance
Once again sorry for being so long winded, but this car is off the chain until this traction roll problem.
Thanks in advance
04-25-2005, 09:53 AM
#2016
Tech Elite
Re: Re: Re: Re: Thrust bearings...
Originally posted by Midnight
Im running the rubber setup from the xray site, with blue22.5 in the front, white 17.5 in the rear, 30 xray oil, 1 hole all the way around (turned all the way to the right then 1 click back). The rear diff is in the low position, I raised it to the middle and it got worst. I also raised the front roll center and it didnt help either. I also tried CS22, 27, 32 with the same results. Im running on very very very high traction concrete. One last thing is that Ive tried sway bars with each size.
Im running the rubber setup from the xray site, with blue22.5 in the front, white 17.5 in the rear, 30 xray oil, 1 hole all the way around (turned all the way to the right then 1 click back). The rear diff is in the low position, I raised it to the middle and it got worst. I also raised the front roll center and it didnt help either. I also tried CS22, 27, 32 with the same results. Im running on very very very high traction concrete. One last thing is that Ive tried sway bars with each size.
04-25-2005, 09:58 AM
#2017
Tech Regular
I had traction roll problems on carpet..
Took an hour to solve...
1mm shims under rear camber links (at hub carrier)
rear 2 deg toe in
rear 2 deg camber
Tire sauce all the way to the edge of the tire but none on the sidewall. Check tires haven't come unglued, traction roll is just another setup challenge, sure it can be frustrating, but its something you have to learn to deal with no matter what you drive.
That was all I had to change, prior to those changes my car was basically stock.
Took an hour to solve...
1mm shims under rear camber links (at hub carrier)
rear 2 deg toe in
rear 2 deg camber
Tire sauce all the way to the edge of the tire but none on the sidewall. Check tires haven't come unglued, traction roll is just another setup challenge, sure it can be frustrating, but its something you have to learn to deal with no matter what you drive.
That was all I had to change, prior to those changes my car was basically stock.
04-25-2005, 10:09 AM
#2018
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Thrust bearings...
Originally posted by howard hudson
BRO you may have to rethink that set up. The one on the web site is for rubber on carpet
BRO you may have to rethink that set up. The one on the web site is for rubber on carpet
04-25-2005, 10:37 AM
#2019
I found everything except for the 50797 short adjuster 5 mm plastic lower end of shock front, can I substitute for something.
Originally posted by John Doucakis
In order to fit Tamiya Shocks you will need the following:
PART Nr. DESCRIPTION
53571 | FLUORINE COATED DAMPER SET (4)
49293 | FLUORINE COATED DAMPER SET (4) - BLUE
49294 | FLUORINE COATED DAMPER SET (4) - RED
53598 | AL. 5 mm Ball Connectors (10) for suspension arm
53642 | AL. 5 mm Ball Connectors (10) for suspension arm - BLUE
53599 | AL. 5 mm Ball Nut (10) for shock towers
53640 | AL. 5 mm Ball Nut (10) for shock towers - BLUE
50596 | Adjuster 5 mm 81/02 plastic for lower end of shock (rear)
50797 | Short Adjuster 5 mm plastic for lower end of shock (8pcs) (front)
50875 | 5 mm ball connector set TAO4
In order to fit Tamiya Shocks you will need the following:
PART Nr. DESCRIPTION
53571 | FLUORINE COATED DAMPER SET (4)
49293 | FLUORINE COATED DAMPER SET (4) - BLUE
49294 | FLUORINE COATED DAMPER SET (4) - RED
53598 | AL. 5 mm Ball Connectors (10) for suspension arm
53642 | AL. 5 mm Ball Connectors (10) for suspension arm - BLUE
53599 | AL. 5 mm Ball Nut (10) for shock towers
53640 | AL. 5 mm Ball Nut (10) for shock towers - BLUE
50596 | Adjuster 5 mm 81/02 plastic for lower end of shock (rear)
50797 | Short Adjuster 5 mm plastic for lower end of shock (8pcs) (front)
50875 | 5 mm ball connector set TAO4
04-25-2005, 11:09 AM
#2020
I used xray 5.8mm bal joint part number 303220 cut right above the hex, with Xray 5.8mm ball ends part number 303240 (the same ones you use for the xray shocks), but I did that because I wanted to put a button head scren threw the ball into the arm ...I have a habit of having the lower part of front shocks "pop off" during racing 
...I cut them right at the red line:
I've actually got some tamiya 53640 on the way to see if I can accomplish an all the way threw screw setup for the tops of the shocks as well.
...I cut them right at the red line: I've actually got some tamiya 53640 on the way to see if I can accomplish an all the way threw screw setup for the tops of the shocks as well.
04-25-2005, 12:07 PM
#2021
Tech Regular
I used a button head 3x12 screw through the stock shock ballend and the stock ball/nut. Prior to that a light tap against the wall with the rear wheel would knock the lower shock ball end off the ball.
Works lovely now.
Works lovely now.
04-25-2005, 01:10 PM
#2022
Originally posted by MartynD
I used a button head 3x12 screw through the stock shock ballend and the stock ball/nut. Prior to that a light tap against the wall with the rear wheel would knock the lower shock ball end off the ball.
Works lovely now.
I used a button head 3x12 screw through the stock shock ballend and the stock ball/nut. Prior to that a light tap against the wall with the rear wheel would knock the lower shock ball end off the ball.
Works lovely now.
04-25-2005, 02:32 PM
#2023
Originally posted by TimXLB
Hi,
I aslo have had problems with the thrush bearings form Xray. I ended up replacing them with some I had around. as for the dry diff problem all four of mine were dry. I rebuid them as soon as they feel a little gritty.
Bearing problems:
I have had three bearings go bad in a whole season of racing. two in the rear and one up front I have seen bearings lock up at the track and melt the hubs.
Dr_hfuhuhurr:
Hi,
LUCKY........... I'm still waiting to get a fk05. as Karting season is starting up soon most of the r/c stuff is on hold. and we were still fast with the 04 so........ also I really don't want to go to the Vegas race with a fresh undriven car....
Thanks
Hi,
I aslo have had problems with the thrush bearings form Xray. I ended up replacing them with some I had around. as for the dry diff problem all four of mine were dry. I rebuid them as soon as they feel a little gritty.
Bearing problems:
I have had three bearings go bad in a whole season of racing. two in the rear and one up front I have seen bearings lock up at the track and melt the hubs.
Dr_hfuhuhurr:
Hi,
LUCKY........... I'm still waiting to get a fk05. as Karting season is starting up soon most of the r/c stuff is on hold. and we were still fast with the 04 so........ also I really don't want to go to the Vegas race with a fresh undriven car....
Thanks
Try the Axiom thrust bearing! On the homepage of www.axiommotors.com
04-25-2005, 09:12 PM
#2024
Originally posted by alb
LOSA3099
LOSA3099
it looks just like a couple of plates and tube of lube,
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByB...D=LOS&CatID=CP
04-25-2005, 09:31 PM
#2025
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Rod M
are you sure?
it looks just like a couple of plates and tube of lube,
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByB...D=LOS&CatID=CP
are you sure?
it looks just like a couple of plates and tube of lube,
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByB...D=LOS&CatID=CP
replaced mine today. the thrust ball are a little bit larger but work better. can you say smoooooooooth ?
