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Xray T1FK05

Old 04-21-2005, 02:28 PM
  #1936  
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http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2039

There you go.
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Old 04-21-2005, 05:55 PM
  #1937  
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Bah...

Just tried to order PRS spur gears... it was going to cost me $20 USD for shipping to Canada for 4 spur gears...

Not worth it...
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Old 04-21-2005, 07:10 PM
  #1938  
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They are good gears, but they are high on the price scale.

I believe great hobbies carries Kimbrough spurs (i hear the 116 64P gear is whats popular)
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Old 04-21-2005, 07:40 PM
  #1939  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Set-Up

Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
Having the arm "kicked-up" like that calms the car down, to me. I did that because the car would get to rear-end happy going into the chicane on our track.

try closing shock pistons front and rear at least 1 hole.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:27 PM
  #1940  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Set-Up

Originally posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
try closing shock pistons front and rear at least 1 hole.
...thanks, but thats alright, kicking up the front arms, helps better on our track for that purpose.
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Old 04-22-2005, 12:38 AM
  #1941  
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Here is another link with X-Ray setups
http://www.rcingreece.com/index.asp?...tups&Car=X-Ray

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Old 04-22-2005, 01:56 AM
  #1942  
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Originally posted by Mike Mandio
A post from Mario Hudy on the FAQ section of the Xray site:


mario

Joined: 03 Sep 2004
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Location: Trencin, Slovakia
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 7:07 am Post subject: I have a dry differential

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a dry differential

The differential has been built per factory specifications and this way it has been build for several years by well trained factory assembly staff with great results. The diffs are being build and set-up for ultra smooth operation. All factory team drivers have been using the original diffs without modification or re-assembly which is a proof that the diffs are build ready for any high competition conditions. There is a thin and sufficient layer of grease put on the large diff shims, there is sufficient amount of grease applied on the carbide balls and there is sufficient amount of grease applied on the axial bearing as well.

You will not find any extra amount of grease in the differential because XRAY differential has been build for smooth operation and features only the neccessary, appropriate and sufficient amount of the grease. If a large amount of grease would be applied, this will make the operation of the differential not as smooth and efficient like it is now - built per factory specifications.

Moreover XRAY differentials feature the XRAY Dust-Covers which seals the differential perfectly and no or very minimum of dust can get into the differential. Therefore even a small amount of grease is sufficient to make the differential work smoothly and perfectly for a long time.

Please note that XRAY has been using a very special grease which is very thin and transparent so it may look the differential is dry. XRAY strongly suggest NOT to use any other grease than the original XRAY grease.

To summarize the answer - XRAY differentials are NOT dry. If you do not see any overflowing amount of grease in the differential do not worry, your differential has been built properly with thin and sufficient layer of thin grease for smooth operation of the differential. If you believe you need more grease than is the factory standard, then please use the included grease in your kit but remember that a larger amount of grease may make the differential run not that smooth. You can purchase the XRAY Grease under part number #30 9500 Silicone Grease

At the end, please remember if you want your differential to last long you need to break-in the differential properly. We will add another FAQ section about the proper differential break-in.


Pure BS.
Mine was as dry as a sunny day in the Sahara.
And those e-clips sure are a b!tch to get out.


Paul
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Old 04-22-2005, 05:35 AM
  #1943  
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i just got my fk05 on tues and i'm glad i asked about the diffs because mine are dry to and yes those clips are a pain in the ass even with snap ring pliers .
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:15 AM
  #1944  
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Originally posted by rcfreak24
i just got my fk05 on tues and i'm glad i asked about the diffs because mine are dry to and yes those clips are a pain in the ass even with snap ring pliers .
..it wa a piece-o-cake with snap ring pliers (I though) ...I did have to dremel the little pins donw though on the pliers as even the smallesst ones I could get at Kragen were to large of a diameter.
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:32 AM
  #1945  
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Originally posted by rcfreak24
i just got my fk05 on tues and i'm glad i asked about the diffs because mine are dry to and yes those clips are a pain in the ass even with snap ring pliers .
Forget the snap ring pliers. They donít work in limited space.

Here is what I am using



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Old 04-22-2005, 08:03 AM
  #1946  
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Alright, so I just got the thicker chassis inn from Xray (3.00mm), and I noticed the battery slots look kind of filed, but not all the way??? Are they already cut or do I need to go in and dremel more on the chassis to get the batteries to sit correctly? Also, how is everyone's car reacting with the different roll center due to the areas where the bulk-heads sit, not being machined out?

-Mike
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:58 AM
  #1947  
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Nuke,

Surely you have a battery pack you can put on the chassis to check the fit.... You will have to do that anyways if you have to dremel.
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Old 04-22-2005, 09:22 AM
  #1948  
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Originally posted by MartynD
Nuke,

Surely you have a battery pack you can put on the chassis to check the fit.... You will have to do that anyways if you have to dremel.
This is true...but I don't have all of my stuff over here, just the box the chassis came in, so I wanted to ask on here...
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Old 04-22-2005, 09:25 AM
  #1949  
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Yes, you do need to shave it down some more to fit 3300's flush with the bottom of the chassis.
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Old 04-22-2005, 09:27 AM
  #1950  
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Default Reading Set Up Sheets

I have a question about droop vs downstop.

I am trying to learn/figure out the difference in these two things - can someone explain the difference? Also, from looking at the setup sheets from X-Ray, I don't see a "droop" setting, just a downstop - are they counting it as the same thing?
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