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Old 04-13-2005, 04:06 PM   #1741
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diffs for now, I'll probably get a mulitdiff sometime soon.
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:12 PM   #1742
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i have a setup for spool that worked pretty well last time out

email if interested
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:54 PM   #1743
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My car has a slight on power push. Will a one-way or a spool help me out? or should I change something suspension related? If it makes a difference, I'm running stock on smooth asphalt with VHT applied.
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:56 PM   #1744
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Default Dry thrust bearing and diff!

I just want to say this is my first X-ray car, always been a Losi guy but could not wait anymore for the JRXS. I was indeed impressed with the crafsmanship and the fit and finish of this car. I was concerned about the diff and thrust problem I was reading about on here so I took mine apart after it's first run down the road. Both were in my opinion dry as a bone. There was a slight oily reisdue on the diff balls and the thrust but, surely not enough lubrication. It was more like the stuff the put a metal parts to keep them from rusting while in the package. Maybe like WD 40 or something. I was also really dissapointed to see the quality of the thrust bearing, not a very sturdy looking bearing at all. I'm am thankful for this forum and you guys to have saved me the trouble of having a problem at the track with a new car. Just wish X-ray would step up and at least admit there is a problem instead of posting that B/S excuse on their website.
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:02 PM   #1745
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jimbo Morris
My car has a slight on power push. Will a one-way or a spool help me out? or should I change something suspension related? If it makes a difference, I'm running stock on smooth asphalt with VHT applied.
maybe this?

Softer front and stiffer rear springs.

Stand up rear shocks, lay fronts down alittle.

Lighter front dampening, Heavier rear dampening

Lower front ride height, raise rear

more toe out (less toe in)

less caster

Front links more parallel to lower front and allow more weight transder to the outside front tires.

Jon
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:11 PM   #1746
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Default gearing ...

wasup to all, just wondering what would be the best spur for running stock and 19 turn motors, the track layout is exactly like the tamiya america one.

thanx to anyone for the help.
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:16 PM   #1747
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jimbo Morris
My car has a slight on power push. Will a one-way or a spool help me out? or should I change something suspension related? If it makes a difference, I'm running stock on smooth asphalt with VHT applied.
Try running the basic rubber tire setup but change the rear springs white. This worked for me running with a spool. You can also try running sway bars front and rear and moving the diff to the middle or high position.
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:20 PM   #1748
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Default Re: gearing ...

Quote:
Originally posted by sonic31
wasup to all, just wondering what would be the best spur for running stock and 19 turn motors, the track layout is exactly like the tamiya america one.

thanx to anyone for the help.
For the moment as I only have the 84T 48P spur that came with the kit, and I am running rubber tires... With a monster stock, I run a 19T pinion and with a reedy quad mag I use a 24t pinion. These should be decent starting points for you.

If you have access to PRS 64p spurs, pick up the 116T and then do the math to find the ratios I am using. Then you can decide for yourself.
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Old 04-14-2005, 06:37 AM   #1749
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Default steering binding

I noticed that when I tightened down the screws for the top deck
all the way it caused a slight amount of binding in the steering linkage.
It looks like the standoff screws are fine but the 2 center screws bend the top deck just slightly.
The servo saver is all the way in both the top and bottom bearing.
I thought I would try 2 thin shims & see if that prevented the top deck from bending over the bulkhead.

Anyone else notice this? I don't think I made any construction mistakes but it is always possible.
Like I said it is a slight binding and may not cause servo problems but I think it might wear out gears faster.

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Old 04-14-2005, 06:57 AM   #1750
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Quote:
Originally posted by L.Fairtrace
diffs for now, I'll probably get a mulitdiff sometime soon.
larry - Try this for a front dif:

1 camber front, 1-1/2 rear
Blue springs front, white rear, 2 holes open front shocks, 3 holes open rear shock, 30 xray oil
2 Rear toe, 1/2 or 1 toe out front
0 droop front, 1 rear

That should put you on the right track, or just ask Williams...I think they put together a good starting setup with 27's in stock @ Jackson on Tuesday.

John
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Old 04-14-2005, 07:01 AM   #1751
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I just picked up the 05 battery brace. Why would they put knockouts in the standoff's if they don't even make contact with the cells?!? It's like they're using up the old Xray parts with this battery strap. I really tell ya that I think we're (The consumer and racers) getting jipped, mostly when this part cost close to $40.00. This upsets me.

John
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Old 04-14-2005, 07:03 AM   #1752
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Why generate 2 different parts and have 2 separate part nubers in the inventory for those standoffs??
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Old 04-14-2005, 07:11 AM   #1753
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Makes it look cheap, unfinished and not up to Xray's standards to have knockouts in the standoffs when the standoffs are about 4 or 5mm away from the cells
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Old 04-14-2005, 07:26 AM   #1754
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
I just picked up the 05 battery brace. Why would they put knockouts in the standoff's if they don't even make contact with the cells?!? It's like they're using up the old Xray parts with this battery strap. I really tell ya that I think we're (The consumer and racers) getting jipped, mostly when this part cost close to $40.00. This upsets me.

John
I will stay with the tape for two reasons.

1. The car is balanced perfect with out the battery strap.

2. 40 bucks can buy alot of tape

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Old 04-14-2005, 07:33 AM   #1755
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What do you mean by "standoffs"?

Can you explain what the problem is, I haven't understood!

Nick
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