aantonis

Whats stripped? The threads or the screw head?

B4

iTrader: (1)

Mr Hudy makes just the tools for this. However he should have included it instead of the piece of crap one.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

You mean like those cute, little, black Xray shock bodies?

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Actually, I've broken the same items on my Pro 4s, that I've broken on my Xrays: Steering knuckles, C-carriers and bumpers. The glaring difference, is, Hpi makes excellent and very strong aluminum shocks, that are INCLUDED in the kit. You make the call.

RUKidn

Yes the thread on the srew is stripepd not the driver ( i liek titening things too much) i think i will have to drill it out. It will be okay for now tho. i jsudt finished assemblign the forn bulkheads and arms, its lookin good now. Im just worried about the screws

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Stay away from the walls LOL

asw7576

Hey..... this is good idea !!! I'm going to copy it

Is it tight enough ?

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Hey Tag! This is between the wall hitters. Stay out of it! Well... I've seen more people come off the track, with broken rear shock bodies, upper AND lower bumper / bumper braces, than I care to talk about. I just learned from others mistakes and bought aluminum shock bodies and extra, extra, extra, bumper braces and impact bumpers.

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I have the plastic shock bodies on my 05, but have alum shock bodies in my spare parts just in case. I think the shocks are smoother with the plastic shock bodies, but not as bling WC this Saturday? Thinking I need to try out my Hara V2

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

Those guys must be some SERIOUS whammers then...

I should know...because *I'M* a whammer and I do't break anything close to that....

but I'm running a rubberneck bumper

From what I've seen C-Hubs are C-hubs...a sacrificial part on almost any car. If you go to aluminum C-hubs then the knuckles are the next to go..

I think that the arms on the Xray are slightly stronger than most of the other cars I've seen at the track (AE, Losi, Yoke, HPI...can't speak on the Corally or exotics)....If you break an arm on an Xray you KNOW that you had some serious contact.

The upper bumper brace is a HUGE difference maker on the durability of the cars. It is designed to break first. Some people are too cheap to replace it when its broke, and that will spell disaster for them. When the upper brace is broke replace it!!!! The upper brace holds your bumper in place so it can absorb the impact. Glueing the upper brace together after you break it is not enough. It will let the bumper move back into your wheel and risk your C-hubs etc...not to mention end your run. I always keep an extra upper bumper brace or two in my pit box

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

You just wait til' Danny-boy, hears about this. Hey! When did you get that Hara Edition, you sneeky s.o.b.? I'll be at the Dub-Cee this weekend. Can't wait. I'm also going to Hobbytown Springfield for a little "Wednesday night" action. Gotta get some nitro back in my bloodstream.

kidDynomite

Yeah, the new bearings are HighSpeed bearings. Only nine balls compared to the 11 balls in the FK04 kit. They spin about 3-6x longer than the old, but seems to have more play (chatter) in the internal bearing rack. I would also loosen up the belts a notch. The intial setting on mine was pretty tight.

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

Not as tight as the "ghetto bar" ...but tigther than *I* cold ever get it with tape

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

is it a countersunk one? ...if not (i..e if a button head) you can dremel a slot into it and extract it with a GOOD screwdriver. If it's a countersunk one (i.e. into the graphite) you can still dremel it, just be carefull not to smoke the chassis to bad ...I used to much locktite on one of the aluminum standoffs, and couples with cheap old 2 mm hex wrench striped BOTH the top and bottom hex in the screw of the same post ...I had to dremel the bottom screw to fit a screwdriver into it, wasn't to bad but I did cut into the chassis just a hair ...I'll tell people it was a rock that scraped the chassis, not me been a n00b

RUKidn

Yerp i loosned both my belts off frotn and rear as a less resistance with teh belts on the pulleys will equal a smoother srivetrain. I found that stock setting on the fornt belt was muchh!! tooo tite.