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Old 04-11-2005, 02:41 AM   #1651
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Whats stripped? The threads or the screw head?
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Old 04-11-2005, 04:11 AM   #1652
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Quote:
Originally posted by drx
Losi makes a very nice wrench set with those 4 sizes.

Now if I could find a nice 5mm open-end for the connecting rod ends.
Mr Hudy makes just the tools for this. However he should have included it instead of the piece of crap one.
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Old 04-11-2005, 05:57 AM   #1653
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
more holes means things are weaker and it would break like a HPI
You mean like those cute, little, black Xray shock bodies?
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:05 AM   #1654
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
more holes means things are weaker and it would break like a HPI
Actually, I've broken the same items on my Pro 4s, that I've broken on my Xrays: Steering knuckles, C-carriers and bumpers. The glaring difference, is, Hpi makes excellent and very strong aluminum shocks, that are INCLUDED in the kit. You make the call.
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:07 AM   #1655
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Yes the thread on the srew is stripepd not the driver ( i liek titening things too much) i think i will have to drill it out. It will be okay for now tho. i jsudt finished assemblign the forn bulkheads and arms, its lookin good now. Im just worried about the screws
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:12 AM   #1656
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Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
Actually, I've broken the same items on my Pro 4s, that I've broken on my Xrays: Steering knuckles, C-carriers and bumpers. The glaring difference, is, Hpi makes excellent and very strong aluminum shocks, that are INCLUDED in the kit. You make the call.

Stay away from the walls LOL
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:12 AM   #1657
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Quote:
Originally posted by HarshGuy
...here's what I did so I wouldn't have to tape bats in (till the brace comes out!!)

Hey..... this is good idea !!! I'm going to copy it

Is it tight enough ?
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:41 AM   #1658
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Tag
Stay away from the walls LOL
Hey Tag! This is between the wall hitters. Stay out of it! Well... I've seen more people come off the track, with broken rear shock bodies, upper AND lower bumper / bumper braces, than I care to talk about. I just learned from others mistakes and bought aluminum shock bodies and extra, extra, extra, bumper braces and impact bumpers.
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:47 AM   #1659
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Yeah, I have the plastic shock bodies on my 05, but have alum shock bodies in my spare parts just in case. I think the shocks are smoother with the plastic shock bodies, but not as bling WC this Saturday? Thinking I need to try out my Hara V2
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:47 AM   #1660
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Those guys must be some SERIOUS whammers then...

I should know...because *I'M* a whammer and I do't break anything close to that....

but I'm running a rubberneck bumper

From what I've seen C-Hubs are C-hubs...a sacrificial part on almost any car. If you go to aluminum C-hubs then the knuckles are the next to go..

I think that the arms on the Xray are slightly stronger than most of the other cars I've seen at the track (AE, Losi, Yoke, HPI...can't speak on the Corally or exotics)....If you break an arm on an Xray you KNOW that you had some serious contact.

The upper bumper brace is a HUGE difference maker on the durability of the cars. It is designed to break first. Some people are too cheap to replace it when its broke, and that will spell disaster for them. When the upper brace is broke replace it!!!! The upper brace holds your bumper in place so it can absorb the impact. Glueing the upper brace together after you break it is not enough. It will let the bumper move back into your wheel and risk your C-hubs etc...not to mention end your run. I always keep an extra upper bumper brace or two in my pit box
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Old 04-11-2005, 07:28 AM   #1661
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
Oh Quinn...stop talking about Danny Pawling like that.

Yeah, I have the plastic shock bodies on my 05, but have alum shock bodies in my spare parts just in case. I think the shocks are smoother with the plastic shock bodies, but not as bling WC this Saturday? Thinking I need to try out my Hara V2
You just wait til' Danny-boy, hears about this. Hey! When did you get that Hara Edition, you sneeky s.o.b.? I'll be at the Dub-Cee this weekend. Can't wait. I'm also going to Hobbytown Springfield for a little "Wednesday night" action. Gotta get some nitro back in my bloodstream.
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Old 04-11-2005, 08:00 AM   #1662
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Quote:
Originally posted by wannabee
Has anyone noticed this car to be loud? The bearings seem to be 89.9999% of the cause...IMO

KE
Yeah, the new bearings are HighSpeed bearings. Only nine balls compared to the 11 balls in the FK04 kit. They spin about 3-6x longer than the old, but seems to have more play (chatter) in the internal bearing rack. I would also loosen up the belts a notch. The intial setting on mine was pretty tight.
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Old 04-11-2005, 08:16 AM   #1663
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Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
Hey..... this is good idea !!! I'm going to copy it

Is it tight enough ?
Not as tight as the "ghetto bar" ...but tigther than *I* cold ever get it with tape
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Old 04-11-2005, 08:20 AM   #1664
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Quote:
Originally posted by RUKidn
Yes the thread on the srew is stripepd not the driver ( i liek titening things too much) i think i will have to drill it out. It will be okay for now tho. i jsudt finished assemblign the forn bulkheads and arms, its lookin good now. Im just worried about the screws
is it a countersunk one? ...if not (i..e if a button head) you can dremel a slot into it and extract it with a GOOD screwdriver. If it's a countersunk one (i.e. into the graphite) you can still dremel it, just be carefull not to smoke the chassis to bad ...I used to much locktite on one of the aluminum standoffs, and couples with cheap old 2 mm hex wrench striped BOTH the top and bottom hex in the screw of the same post ...I had to dremel the bottom screw to fit a screwdriver into it, wasn't to bad but I did cut into the chassis just a hair ...I'll tell people it was a rock that scraped the chassis, not me been a n00b
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Old 04-11-2005, 08:20 AM   #1665
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Yerp i loosned both my belts off frotn and rear as a less resistance with teh belts on the pulleys will equal a smoother srivetrain. I found that stock setting on the fornt belt was muchh!! tooo tite.
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