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Old 04-10-2012, 11:31 AM   #1
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Default 21.5T Brushless

Hey guys whats a good 21.5T Brushless motor and esc combo out there. and what is the real difference between the sensor less and sensored? also matching a good Lipo battery to the system.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:49 AM   #2
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Hey guys whats a good 21.5T Brushless motor and esc combo out there. and what is the real difference between the sensor less and sensored? also matching a good Lipo battery to the system.
I have run the Novak ballistic and Thunderpower 21.5's both performed the same, I rant a lot of timing in both and the handle it well. Sensored is better for high turn motors as it sends a more accurate position of the rotor to the speed control and you do not get "cogging" which is a stuttering off the line. If you're just running up and down the street its probably not a bid deal.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:13 PM   #3
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what would a setup like that usually run cost wise? And its going in a TT-01E tamiya chassis.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:28 PM   #4
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what would a setup like that usually run cost wise? And its going in a TT-01E tamiya chassis.
Unless your running a class that specs that motor and chassis, it's going to be slow, there are only a couple gearing options for the TT01, and the FDR is much to high for a 21.5 motor. Are you planning to race this car?
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:41 PM   #5
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Yea little by little I gonna get it together. Is an indoor track that runs 21.5T motor with the Vintage body. But the rules are not following the Vintage specs and have there own.
USVTA Approved vintage bodies

Any HPI “Vintage” tire except slicks

Open 21.5 Brushless Motor

No ESC timing advance (‘blinky mode’)

4.2 (or lower) Final Drive Ratio
Thats what there specs are and I dont expect to win just have fun since I just pulled all my older gear out after 2 years. I still dont get the Blinky mode thing.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:04 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Zed1 View Post
Yea little by little I gonna get it together. Is an indoor track that runs 21.5T motor with the Vintage body. But the rules are not following the Vintage specs and have there own.
USVTA Approved vintage bodies

Any HPI “Vintage” tire except slicks

Open 21.5 Brushless Motor

No ESC timing advance (‘blinky mode’)

4.2 (or lower) Final Drive Ratio
Thats what there specs are and I dont expect to win just have fun since I just pulled all my older gear out after 2 years. I still dont get the Blinky mode thing.
blinky just mean no timing at the speedo control level - some of the speedo, like the tekin RS or LRP, have dynamic timing on the speedo - blinky is a class that locks all that out and is visibly by blinking LEDs on the controller, hence the 'blinky' name

like Mike said, the TT01 is very limited..even with the 55T spur and 25t pinion (optional parts), the lowest (fastest) ratio is only a 5.72 (per tamiya) which is going to be considerable slower then a car running 4.2, or right at the limit...

just some food for thought...TT01's are great cars when run in the right kind of class - but they are really limited when run against race-bred machines we ran a class of TT01's the end of January, and 1st thru 6th were on the same lap, about 12 seconds apart - we all ran the same gearing, motors, kit shocks and that's what kept everything equal. put them against cars with adjustable EVERYTHING, and they are gonna look slow and out of place I love my tt01, but i'd never try to race it against a xray or tc6
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:30 PM   #7
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So the TT01E is not a good chassis? and there would be know way to gear it for the 4.2 that is needed? I would of thought that it just came down to the motor Drive gear and the Spur gear on the axle.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:32 PM   #8
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I have a tt01 and the ONLY way for you to get that gear ratio is to upgrade the tub chassis to the 3racing carbon fiber chassis and then modify the motor mount. ITS ALOT OF MONEY. Your best bet is to get a used chassis say a few yrs old and go that route. I can't tell you how much money i spent to get my tt01 up to track capability only to realize it was not worth it and make it into a drifter instead.

This is my tt01 after all upgrades. This is what you will end up with and it still will not be as good as say a used RDX, or tc5 or X-ray


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Old 04-10-2012, 02:35 PM   #9
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So the TT01E is not a good chassis? and there would be know way to gear it for the 4.2 that is needed? I would of thought that it just came down to the motor Drive gear and the Spur gear on the axle.
If you are just getting started, ask if you can run the silver can motor with the 21.5's, then just get the vta tires and body and see how the car runs, once you get comfortable you can sell your tt01 and buy something else used and get the spec motor.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:04 PM   #10
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Well I really would hate to get rid of it It seems like a good chassis except that there is play in the wheels. If I can get adjustable tierods from somewhere to tighten it I know it would be better or make something. Just seems there is a lot of play. Its the fights one I am building from a kit so I think it be like my first car I built in my yard. Kinda hard to get rid of.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:09 PM   #11
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I get what your saying i was the same way just ended up spending to much to get it race worthy. If you were just racing in Tamiya class races then its good but if you want to compete open class against all the other chassis out there its not going to compete well.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:27 PM   #12
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Keep the TT01 and mess with it a little. In the beginning its very easy to get into a car that has so much adjustment that you are making changes blind. See if they will let you run a silver can motor and just practice alot to get into the feeling of racing.

From there start looking for a car thats a few years old and go from there. My first on-road car was a AE TC4 and its a wonderful car but it can't hold a candle to my XRAY T1. I use my TC4 to practice with, drift with, and just mess around with. A fun car, just not my racer.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #13
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More or less what i said i think. I have a Losi Type R as a racer and i turned my TT01 into a drifter.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:46 PM   #14
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I do have an old yokomo drift chassis from years back. would that be any better?
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:46 PM   #15
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I do have an old yokomo drift chassis from years back. would that be any better?
It probably would be better than a TT-01, but it might be a bit of work and you need to consider if you can still get parts for it anywhere.

It would likely need weight added in the back and a different differential configuration. Usually drift cars have a lot of weight up front. They also usually have a solid rear axle and a front one-way diff or a gear diff or maybe a ball diff.

For racing you'll want a gear diff or ball diff in the rear and solid axle (spool) or a gear diff in the front. Racing 21.5 blinky, you might like a diff better than a spool in the front. Hopefully you could just swap front to rear whatever diffs are in your car right now to turn it into a racer. Check that the pulleys are the same size though. Sometimes drift cars are different sizes front to back. If so, you would need to change at least one of them to match the other.

Sensorless motors are not legal for any spec racing classes, not that you would want to use one anyway and if you tried to use a 21.5 motor with a sensorless ESC, your car might not move at all from a stopped position.

If you are on a tight budget you can probably ask the race director about allowing you to use a silver can brushed motor to start out and then get a proper sensored brushless setup later. As long as you don't have some crazy fast silver can that was cherry picked, comm dropped, zapped or any other "voodoo", I'm sure they'll have no issues letting you run it.

Most important thing is to just get a car on the track and have some fun with it.
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