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Old 01-30-2005, 03:38 PM   #1
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Default Discharger for inline 6-cell

Just curious about this. I usually just run the car until the batteries die, but if conditions or time prohibit this, an inexpensive discharger may be a good idea.

So, I just use the 6-cell packs with the cells set up end-to-end, so i'm pretty sure I can't use a tray. I heard that the little alligator clamp dischargers don't do the job completely. Any recommendations?
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Old 01-30-2005, 04:18 PM   #2
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if your using stick packs which is what it sounds like, you will need to use something that you can put a plug on,I use my GFX and then finish them off with 12 1157 bulbs,about 20 amps is all you need.
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Old 01-30-2005, 08:26 PM   #3
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be carefull with stick packs. I would try not discharging much higher then 10amps. For a few reason:
-tamiya plugs a terrible and will melt
-typically stick packs are take welded and cannot take high amp draws
-typically sticks use lesser quality cells so cant take the amp draws.

consider them sport packs and dont use more then 10amps.
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Old 01-30-2005, 10:37 PM   #4
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use lightbulbs...i use resistors..(mispell)
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Old 01-30-2005, 10:42 PM   #5
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It's not advisable to do this with stick packs at all, you may be reverse charging one or more cells, this is very bad indeed. If you can't discharge them individually then don't discharge them that far at all, they will last longer this way.

Chris.
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:24 PM   #6
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Hmph. OK, so I probably shouldn't use a discharger. The lightbulb thing sounded pretty good to passively discharge the batteries under load. I can take an MSC I've got lying around and clip the battery plug off and solder the wires to leads of a light board. Just get a bunch of 12V lights (or should I go lower, since the pack will be pretty dead already) and hook em in series. Or just get one bulb and a few resistors.
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:33 PM   #7
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Don't use anything, just leave them, if you cannot do it each invidual cell, don't do it at all.

Chris.
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:40 PM   #8
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Ah. Well, it was a good idea. So now I know why side-by-side packs are so popular now. When I first poked my head in this hobby, 2000mAh sticks were top-of-the-line. Things have changed in just a couple years. One of my kits should take side-by-side, maybe. The other one only takes stick, so I'll probably stick with the sport packs.
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Old 01-31-2005, 12:04 AM   #9
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If the stick packs are NiCd's it is essential to discharge them before charging them again. if anybody has heard of the memory effect NiCd cells have when not properly discharged before charging.

People at my club have always been discharging stick packs to no ill effect's. we just use car tail light bulbs, around 5 of them soldered in parallel.

The only thing with bulb dischargers: Make sure you disconnect the battery as soon as the bulbs start to dim. if you leave it on there is a chance you might reverse a cell or two. the cell reversal thing only really happens when the cells voltages are way outta match. generally they are pretty close. not matched cell close but pretty close anyway.
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Old 01-31-2005, 05:53 AM   #10
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Everybody that runs spec runs 1600 nicad stick packs and discharges with either light bulbs (20amps) or their charger (20amps) you will need to remove the tamiya plugs and replace them with deans plugs,this is standard procedure for racing with stick packs,we've been doing it for 6+ years at our track and there are hundreds of spec racers doing it right now with no ill effects.If your running NiMH's then you can leave them alone after you race, you will still need to discharge them before you charge again.But I would still advise to replace the tamiya plugs with deans plugs in all cases.
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Old 01-31-2005, 06:34 AM   #11
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here you go designed for your needs.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXUE23&P=

Edit: or this cheaper one.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXHUK1&P=

Hope this helps,
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Old 01-31-2005, 07:03 AM   #12
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Not sure if either of those two items will cut it.
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Old 01-31-2005, 07:26 AM   #13
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Well he said an inexpensive discharger for stick packs and both of them have auto cut-off so no chance of cell reversal. Why won't they cut it.
they will take the pack down to .09 per cell/avg. they are both inexpensive and easy to use without going through changing connectors and having to do anything else but connect and let it do its job.
That is good enough for regular packs so were again is the problem?
Just my two pennies,
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Old 01-31-2005, 08:27 AM   #14
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I don't know about the Orion stick pack discharger, but I do know that Venom cautions against using their product to discharge a full, or almost full stick pack. Apparently, it can't take the heat generated by the process.

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Old 01-31-2005, 08:45 AM   #15
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Default Re: Discharger for inline 6-cell

Quote:
Originally posted by Liko
Just curious about this. I usually just run the car until the batteries die, but if conditions or time prohibit this, an inexpensive discharger may be a good idea.

So, I just use the 6-cell packs with the cells set up end-to-end, so i'm pretty sure I can't use a tray. I heard that the little alligator clamp dischargers don't do the job completely. Any recommendations?
Batteries definately perform better, if discharged.

Actually, you're doing quite fine, by running your batts, till they drop, as lon as you dont over-do it and run till the car cant move anymore.

So getting an discharger or not, it depends on what you'll do in the long run.

If you want to be more serious later, you shold get cars with saddles or side-by-side packs. If that's the case, I probably wouldnt spend money on a discharger right now. If you are not sure or know it'll take a long time to get there, get that Orion discharger mentioned above. The Orion discharger will give you better control over the discharge process, since discharging in the car, will risk going to low and you get cell-reversal at some point.

If you by rules at the track are forced to use stick packs, I would get the Integy Reactor 10 amp discharger with auto cut off.
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