Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

I opened mine up and cut a little slot in the front side panal as the very front of the charger has items I didn't want to risk damaging. I had no problems by doing this and liek you said it makes it easier to use. I am about to lenthen the leads also but I have heard it is not a good idea to make them longer as it increased the resistance for the current to the cells. I haven;t had any problemms with my longer leads from my GM COmmander chargers so I think I am going to make them longer after all.
Stephen <><

tom235

was it very hard to do?do you have any pixs

Mr. Postman

I'd like to see how you did that too.

TC

CoBroRa/TAOB

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

NO and I will take some later today as I am going to the track for practice today. If you guys are in the vecentity of SoCal come by and I can show you. Really it was easy to do the mod. I just open it up to see where I could runt he wires out, the easiest place was in the front left side, no stuff in the way. I used a drill and a bit that was just larger than the diameter of the wire and drilled two holes right next to each other than used a dremel with a very small sanding bit to smooth out the edges and connected the two holes and the wires you just have to un-solder than re-route them through the new holes and re-solder...really was easy and took about twenty minutes. Just take your time...You don;t want it to look like some nuckle head went nuts with a drill on your pretty charger.
Also Tre Leonard does soem great work on a face plate for this charger. Here is the one he did for me.

oh yea here is a link to his site.
http://www.endlessvistas.com/tres/new1/new/

Turtlemaster

you don't have to unsolder any wires if you don't want to, and i saw nothing in the front of my aps that would interfer with the wires, made my cut in the left front on the panel, i use a small grinding wheel on a dremel to make the hole in the front look like the one in the back, and if you don't have a dremel or drill, you can use a file. the case is soft metel. sorry no pictures at this time.

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

Yup but I had a real nice face plate I didn't want to ruin...Thats right that is the reason why I went to the side...DUH...Sorry guys I forgot why the front didn't work for me.....I must of been thinking about my GM Commander charger...too much up front.
Stephen <><

Turtlemaster

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

ALways one upping me aren't you....
You lovin' your BD yet?
Stephen <><

Mr. Postman

I was at SoCal yesterday, runnin' my T4. If you were out there after 3:00pm, I probably "ran" into you (I'm still just an Intermetiate).

Custom pit boards, face places, etc really look sweet and add that little extra "personality" to your pit area. I'd be afraid to even ask how much they would even cost. I know that there a lot of time that goes into painting them up, and you know what they say, "the laborer is worthy of his hire".

TC

CoBroRa/TAOB

Asurada Sugo

From my experience with computer power supplies, those units are only primary regulated on the 5V output and the 12V output is just a tapped output from the primary transformer. This is the reason why you have to put a load on the 5V output to get the PSU to output 12V. This means that the 12V output from the computer PSU will not hold it's 12V (or 11.8V) under load. I persume that when you charge the battery, amp draw from the charger will impose a heavy enough load on the computer PSU to pull down it's voltage, hence the "LOW VOLTAGE" error.

I would recommended a quality power supply that is primary regulated at 13.8V for any RC purposes as these PSUs will output constant voltage (approx -/+ 5%) within it's rated load. Most have these have UL/CSA approval so they are much safer than trying to convert a computer PSU which is out-right DANGEROUS if not done correctly and components secured properly.

Asurada Sugo

A guy at my local track has made similar modifications to his Dyno-Charge in redirecting the output lead to come out at the front of this charger. It should be very easy to do, but I prefer to leave my equipment in original form and I find the leads are just the right length to work it, or maybe an inch or 2 longer would be nice.

I've had mine for a few months now and haven't had a problem with it. I've also heard people say it would be great if it can discharge, but I really don't find it necessary cause battery charging and motor testing is already a FULL-TIME job for my Dyno-Charge, actually it's doing overtime!

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

Yup was there, I was running my Touring Car for the big race this weekend. Remember no off road practice Saturday.....@Socal.
I was the BIG FAT Guy late twenties looking goofy guy wearing a Team Br00d shirt. Green hat.
Is any of that ringing any bells.
I was sitting near the rear and against the wall.
Next time you see me come up ansd say hi.
Stephen <><
Oh that pit stuff I think total was about $120.00 but I got a big discount only becasue I bought alot all at once. Tre's is really cool to work with. If you have a really nice paint job on your car he will duplicate it to fit all your gear. Here is all he has doen for me and the prices if bought individualy
Pit Board $65
Face plate charges
Two GM Commanders $20 each
APS Dyno-Charge $20 but I got it for free as I sent him the charger to make up a template....
Novak smart tray $10
Ott light $10
Integy Zero 30 discharge tray $10
Hakko face plate $15
Hakko wrap $15
I think those are the prices but the more you do the less each one gets.
Hope this takes that sting to your wallet you are thinking there is...LOL
Stephen <><

Mr. Postman

Ahhh, back where the soda machines are, in the "pro drivers" area. I remember seeing 2 or 3 sedans out there. I hope they have a good turn-out this weekend for the JBRL. I was up in Fremont for the TCS race when SoCal hosted Jimmy's offroad race. I understand they had a fantastic turnout for it. Shoot, SoCal was ever putting in new overhead lights too.

I normallly pit about 3 or 4 tables away from the counter, on the "onroad" side. I have a big rolling tool chest and a storage box that's bungied out, on top. I pit away from the "offroad" side, so that way, no one trips over the tool chest. I normally set up two wire racks to stack all of my electric gear on, and I usually have my dvd player going, watching anime. I'm the middle-aged guy with the ponytail and glasses. I try to do SoCal on Wednesdays. On most weekends, I'll hook up with my brother and race onroad "somewhere" or "test" at Tamiya.

Next time I'm out there, I'll look you up and check out your gear. With all the stuff you've had done, that's a pretty decent price. The hardest part would be deciding what "theme" to go with. I've been into Japanese manga and anime since the late 70's.

Thanks again for the info. Good luck this weekend. Catch you later then...

TC

CoBroRa/TAOB

Neil

Well my dyno charge just took a crap. I went charge a pack and none of the buttons worked. Then I noticed my temp wire had some bare wire showing where it goes into the heat shrink by the probe.
It was touching one of the battery bars. It must have shorted there. Now when I power it up all I get is a blank screen. Is there a way to reset it or will I have to send it in. Who do I contact for service? This sucks

RcMonk

I think someone here mentioned that the fuses inside can be replaced. You might want to check that first.