DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

here is my new solution

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...d_Sound_System

Cain

iTrader: (294)

very nice find!

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

A couple of us have been talking yesterday and today about what a redneck good time the new sound system could make VTA racing. Don't like putting ballast in your car? The new Associated sound system is about 90 grams.

SWTour

iTrader: (9)

lol - I was on the phone w/ a buddy of mine today, who was at the ASSOCIATED Garage Sale and he put Don Natale on the phone...and played one of those over the phone. IT WAS LOUD!!

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

The ad says that it is 25 or 30 amps (depending on what page you read).

spurcheck

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, pardon my ignorance on this question. It's more than likely been asked numerous times before so bear with me. On setting up a TC3 for a friend and I believe I recall some modification on some level is required to get enough gear hung on the car to at least have it somewhat competitive (speed wise, not handling wise). Can someone give me some pointers on what is needed and gearing suggestions ie; pinion and spur, thanks.

godzukihop

iTrader: (32)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post13415195

i believe it starts with post #7746

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Jeff - look for IndyHobbies posts, I know he was running (and done alot with) the TC3.. I did some of them to my TC3 for rally racing... when I get a chance I can pull it out and look at it. if I actually got out racing once and a while, I'd bring the chassis with me for you to see in person

Kevin Marcy

First you need to do some "Dremel surgery" to remove the webbing under the pinion gear. Probably want to start with a 60T spur, 38 pinion with 48-pitch gears (depending on track size & configuration). Robinson has 60T & 55T spurs.

IndyHobbies.com

Here's the mod that is required. You can take the webs out with your dremel entirely, or just enough to clear your pinion. That's what I did. I left as much as I could.

I thought I had a photo, but couldn't find it. Here's a photo I found:

nf_ekt

iTrader: (115)

Yep, dremel that area out and it's good to go. I think I had to dremel the bottom part of where the motor mounts in two places... once you try to use the motor cam part that screws to the motor, you will see how the rotation is limited... just keep looking closely at what's going on and do test fits until everything lines up. I also modded the chassis brace piece (RR) by dremeling slightly to ensure clearance. Get it right and you can run any FDR you want.

spurcheck

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. In between "turkey bingeing" I did just that. Ended up installing 49/76 64 pitch and it worked out. Any as you guys indicated, if I get aggressive enough with Mr. Dremel, I can get it to run whatever fdr I want.

spurcheck

iTrader: (1)

Hey Indy Hobbies. You may have solved another problem I was going to have to work out. The pic shows location of a fan,,, thanks!!!

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

i also grinded away a little of the motor cam on mine too - wanted to get as much movement in mine as possible... but mine was all done for RALLY, baby

this mean you're going to be making a return to VTA??

spurcheck

iTrader: (1)

I'm doing up a car for a friend, getting him up and running, VTA to me is the perfect platform. Actually, there are many drivers that could learn a thing or two about racing by running in this class. I like that the cars are running at a more realistic pace, more door to door racing, you aren't chasing the "motor of the week" and more emphasis is on chassis set up and making wise choices on the track.