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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 11-10-2014, 10:09 AM
  #8026  
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I'm curious, too, Cain. At this point, I just tune my motors "by ear." I haven't become obsessive to the point of wanting to buy a dyno, but I know I could definitely put one to use.

Originally Posted by F N CUDA
motor spray is bad shit too
just can't win
Indeed. Most motor cleaners (or contact cleaner) is based on trichloroethene (TCE). Nasty stuff. Brake cleaner is usually a concoction of solvents including xylene, toluene, acetone, methyl alcohol, etc. MEK is another carcinogenic solvent. A lot of these spray can cleaners have high volitile organic compounds (VOCs) and really should only be used with a fume hood. Or the user should be using a respirator with the proper VOC cartridges. The worst is probably TCE, then MEK.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:22 AM
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yeah, and who knows maybe its more so to see if the motor is "bad" versus finding the world beater that I am curious on, but without having a base to go off of, I am not sure. And it could be that i am used to my previous motors, speed passions which in USGT work fine, right up there with the fast guys, driver just need improvements lol.

When we ran just plan VTA, the fast drivers vehicle looked like on a whole different level than the rest, but it was a trinity motor when I asked and he isn't running USVTA as far as I can tell since the rules changed to it this year.

On a side note, what are common settings to use for Ballistics for timing? I have heard on our smaller track to use 25 degree of timing than the stock "30", and I had my daughters vehicle at that and mine I guess I left at 30 when I checked. I went to full 45 and I felt a bit more increase in power and temps were still good. But not sure if maybe its better on a tighter track to use less timing and go with taller gearing, or, more timing and lower gearing.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:36 AM
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Everybody head over to facebook and snowbirds page as they are asking about usvta vs roar rules
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Old 11-10-2014, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer
Everybody head over to facebook and snowbirds page as they are asking about usvta vs roar rules
Click on this link to get to the Facebook discussion....
https://www.facebook.com/202744040561/photos/a.215665650561.279680.202744040561/10154763715615562/
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:37 PM
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Here is what you need to know....ROAR VTA on a any level doesnt bring racers. Not one ROAR race brings on the racers or car count that the USVTA races bring.

Next question?
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:53 PM
  #8031  
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Does anyone even know what a ROAR 25.5 is anyway? How are they going to tech spec motors that have no specs?

USVTA ALL DAY.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:47 PM
  #8032  
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Originally Posted by Cain
yeah, and who knows maybe its more so to see if the motor is "bad" versus finding the world beater that I am curious on, but without having a base to go off of, I am not sure. And it could be that i am used to my previous motors, speed passions which in USGT work fine, right up there with the fast guys, driver just need improvements lol.

When we ran just plan VTA, the fast drivers vehicle looked like on a whole different level than the rest, but it was a trinity motor when I asked and he isn't running USVTA as far as I can tell since the rules changed to it this year.

On a side note, what are common settings to use for Ballistics for timing? I have heard on our smaller track to use 25 degree of timing than the stock "30", and I had my daughters vehicle at that and mine I guess I left at 30 when I checked. I went to full 45 and I felt a bit more increase in power and temps were still good. But not sure if maybe its better on a tighter track to use less timing and go with taller gearing, or, more timing and lower gearing.
CAIN don't put too much faith in those timing marks on the Ballistic motors. Mine at 45 degrees was really 58 (on the Motorlyser). Of the ones I check that the label indicated they were timing at 45 degrees the actual timing ranged from 40 to 58 degrees (two were actually spot on). I've set mine at 45 degrees on the Motorlyser and its very competitive with D4 based 25.5 motors (at least on the dyno). Once I got the timing at a true 45 degrees (the same as the 2 fast VTA guys here), my car has been very competitive, but we run on big outdoor tracks. Some detune their motors for shorter tracks, I change the FDR. Probably two different ways of doing the same thing.
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:30 AM
  #8033  
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2
CAIN don't put too much faith in those timing marks on the Ballistic motors. Mine at 45 degrees was really 58 (on the Motorlyser). Of the ones I check that the label indicated they were timing at 45 degrees the actual timing ranged from 40 to 58 degrees (two were actually spot on). I've set mine at 45 degrees on the Motorlyser and its very competitive with D4 based 25.5 motors (at least on the dyno). Once I got the timing at a true 45 degrees (the same as the 2 fast VTA guys here), my car has been very competitive, but we run on big outdoor tracks. Some detune their motors for shorter tracks, I change the FDR. Probably two different ways of doing the same thing.

Do you have a part # for the Motorlyser you mentioned or something similar? I wouldn't mind having something like this in the pit box to confirm what the settings we are seeing, etc.

Thanks beforehand for all your help!

probably the only other thing I need to figure out is the best way to add weight. I had it setup that felt well, but the spacing I wanted to add weight on the T3 didn't work out so well and came off during a hard impact. Will have to look into that more.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Do you have a part # for the Motorlyser you mentioned or something similar? I wouldn't mind having something like this in the pit box to confirm what the settings we are seeing, etc.

Thanks beforehand for all your help!

probably the only other thing I need to figure out is the best way to add weight. I had it setup that felt well, but the spacing I wanted to add weight on the T3 didn't work out so well and came off during a hard impact. Will have to look into that more.
Cain, the motor in your car has always been ran at full timing according to the label when I had it regardless of track size. If you think for any reason heat will be an issue, put in a 30mm fan from Superior Hobbies.

If your set-up isn't just about perfect, it's going to be difficult to gauge how good the motor is. As you know, just dropping in another motor in this class isn't gonna get it done for you.

Glad you got that Loctite and got your daughter's motor squared away
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Old 11-11-2014, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ASM
Cain, the motor in your car has always been ran at full timing according to the label when I had it regardless of track size. If you think for any reason heat will be an issue, put in a 30mm fan from Superior Hobbies.

If your set-up isn't just about perfect, it's going to be difficult to gauge how good the motor is. As you know, just dropping in another motor in this class isn't gonna get it done for you.

Glad you got that Loctite and got your daughter's motor squared away
it has a fan on it and the last heat and main I ran it with 45 degree of timing (didn't try to crank it any more, just got it to the what the label said) and it did have more power, but again, there were some you could just notice down the straight were pulling harder so curious to have something to test and confirm with to see how the motors are in general.

The motor though isn't a dog by any means, happy with the purchase.
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:49 AM
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From the list of esc's that have been approved for usvta racing and its all a matter of opinion from one racer to another when it comes to buying a esc which esc is most used or the best liked for usvta racing,the high ends like novak lrp speed passion or low ends like hobbywing.I have always used the old style novak gtb in my vta car with no problems to speak of but now the gtb's are hard to find it seems like. I am building a tc4 vta for my son to race and needing a esc for it, so the question is which esc to buy?
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:53 AM
  #8037  
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on the cheap we are happy with the Speed Passion Reventon Stock Club ESCs. Hobbywing's Just stock ESCs I have heard work well. Personally I like the fact that with the Speed Passion we have we can use a hand held programmer to make changes. Not like there are a bunch but its nice versus guessing like and chime combos with my eyes and ears lol.

I believe novak has some offerings too.

With USVTA's rule change on esc's you should be able to find a variety.
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:59 AM
  #8038  
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Justock. You have to make sure your reverse strength is dialed all the way up (even though you won't be using reverse) and you will have good brakes with the HW. Smooth, good punch, never had one go up or fail on me. At $50 it's hard to go wrong.
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mojo 309
From the list of esc's that have been approved for usvta racing and its all a matter of opinion from one racer to another when it comes to buying a esc which esc is most used or the best liked for usvta racing,the high ends like novak lrp speed passion or low ends like hobbywing.I have always used the old style novak gtb in my vta car with no problems to speak of but now the gtb's are hard to find it seems like. I am building a tc4 vta for my son to race and needing a esc for it, so the question is which esc to buy?
just a question.... why do you feel a hobbywing is 'low end'?? because of its price point?? or because its a brand you never heard of?

I use one of their stock spec roar speedos in my vta, and ita flat out awesome. as are their justock speedos. just because they are cheaper doesn't mean that are bottom of the barrel equipment. just for a point of reference - there were more hobbywing equipment then Tekin and Novak at this year's IFMAR worlds.

I used to rub for Tekin, but after trying a justock, i was hooked and sold off all my Tekin, and trusty/reliable Novak GTB2, and now exclusively run the hobbywing stuff

don't equate low prices with garbage/low end equipment...
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Justock. You have to make sure your reverse strength is dialed all the way up (even though you won't be using reverse) and you will have good brakes with the HW. Smooth, good punch, never had one go up or fail on me. At $50 it's hard to go wrong.
Also be sure that reverse is turned off (i.e., Forward only). I bought the Hobby Wing Just Stock because I have a HW ESC in one of my off-road cars and already had the programming box. When I started VTA early this year, I was using a Tekin Gen 1 ESC and never noticed a drop off in lap times with I got the HW Just Stock. Nor did I notice an improvement in lap times when I switched to the TeKin Gen2 ESC.
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