Marv

iTrader: (2)

Well ladies...

There's 137 definitions for the word DORK in the urban dictionary...

So, which kind of DORK are we talkin' here...

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

"geared very differently" meaning you should gear higher or lower fdr then the ballistic ex: 4.0 ballistic vs 3.6 SS ?? (run bigger pinion with the SS)

Thanks.. I currently run a SS[/QUOTE]

For example, my PHI 07 preferred to be at a 3.46, my TCX prefers 3.66 (same esc,battery,motor).

We have what I call an "anamoly" ballistic floating around here that prefers 4.3 in a TC6

Richard D and Michael can chime in what they are running on their SS's

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

i'll preface the following statement as not intended to offend nor irk, nor tork anyone in anyway.

Upon further review by the official in the booth, the following observations were made from the uploaded video, and assuming the right car was being observed.

At 17:10 there was a wreck in the far right side which would have added 3-5 seconds to that lap, at 17:25 the orange/white car was dusted down the straight, at 18:00 the black car was closed in on by approx 8', at 19:50 run into the sweeper went offline adding a couple of tenths, at 20:02 the collision at the end of the sweeper added a few tenths, at 20:43 the mid corner push that the car has throughout the run caused a board meeting, at 20:53 collision with the black car in the the right side chicane, at 21:07 double board meeting, 23:29 and 23:55 taps on the left side chicane.

The car seems plenty fast enough but has a consistent mid/high speed corner push, off power it looks like it corners pretty good.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

The proper and accepted way of getting that bearing out is a concrete floor, a button head screw, an allen driver, and a few taps from your trusty hammer. To get the new one in, first clearance the endbell with your dremmel sander drum and press it in with your fingers. I can also attest that a deep-well socket of the right size, a concrete floor, and the hammer work to get it back in as well, but I got tired of doing that.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

DORK...LOL

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

hummm..great breakdown....you must have some free time..

btw..anything on the horizon for the Nationals?..like 20 min mains, or high bank sweeper?..

Indyonroad

iTrader: (2)

For example, my PHI 07 preferred to be at a 3.46, my TCX prefers 3.66 (same esc,battery,motor).

We have what I call an "anamoly" ballistic floating around here that prefers 4.3 in a TC6

Richard D and Michael can chime in what they are running on their SS's[/QUOTE]



Thanks...I'll do some wide spread gearing and see what the car likes.

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

free time??? nope, but the you tube pause button, pen and paper and 4 hours I can watch an 8 minute video

robk

iTrader: (22)

It's pretty hard to tell the difference in bearings when they are installed so it's hard to enforce unless constant teardowns in tech are the norm. It's not illegal, but I'm all like"Really dude?"

robk

iTrader: (22)

Basically, if you think of the spoiler as a right (90*) triangle, the chord would be the size of the angled side, and the height would be the vertical side. Obviously it's not strictly a right triangle, since I have no idea how those numbers work out, but you get the idea.

muahdib4

Ya know, that comment right there is a big part of the reason I'm starting to race VTA. Plus, I don't have to care at all about the motor of the week being banned garbage. Between Mini and VTA, it's all about racing.

jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

thanks RobK.

rcsuicide

Hey VTA guys! Besides the missing driver figure and having no numbers on the doors, hood and trunk ... is there anything in the USVTA rules that makes this factory painted HPI AAR Cuda body illegal to race in VTA?
.

GP40X

iTrader: (10)

RobK,

Explanation of ceramic bearings in one of my two Novak Ballistic 25.5 VTA motors. Take a Custom Build a Ballistic Modified motor with high torque rotor. Install in your loose dirt Custom Works Rocket. Run at major race. Want more speed so crank up timing AND Boost on Tekin RS Pro. Get the motor so hot in a heat race that the Novak sticker melts off, the tan wire windings are now a deep redish brown. the solder connecting the windings to the ring has puddled in the end bell and is stuck to the rotor, and said high torque rotor no longer has enough magnetism to pick up a 4-40 nut. Clean sticky residue from orange motor ring. Toss melted stator and cooked rotor. Toss the sensor board "just in case". Clean solder out of the end bell. Buy new sensor board, 25.5 USVTA legal stator, and standard Neo 12.3 Novak stock rotor and assemble yourself a "DORK SPECIAL" Ballistic motor because the only things that survived the meltdown were the orange ring, end bells and the ceramic bearings I even had to replace the fish paper for Petty's sake. BTW I run the same times with the Dork Special as my Blue Ring Stock motor that came in my Edge Combo

alloyslash

iTrader: (19)

I disassemble my motor about every 3-4 races to clean, check, and oil the bearings. Both bearings roll very free and aren't overly sloppy. I just don't see ceramic bearings in the motor making a noticable difference on the track.