Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Any tips or tricks to gluing these tires up? They seem to be a pretty big pain. Never glued any onroad tires before. Always used premounts.

savageboy69

iTrader: (93)

any one running a tamiya trf 415 msxx? trying to find a good starting setup with no luck so far

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

I am going to be starting to get into VTA at the local club after watching some this weekend.

I will be going with a ta05v2 IFS chassis since I have one and its getting replaced by a Xray T4

Anyone run this chassis in vta? it will be 21.5t bl spec

also its 190mm body but as far as i can find all the vta are 200mm bodies.... so will have to run a offset for the wheels?

Rozzt_iwa

don't know any one that runs a ta05 in vta Australia but here are the rules we use

Here are the current "Generally Accepted" Club rules as they stand around several Australian clubs at the moment to give you an idea..


Chassis Specification:
Any 1/10 4wd or Fwd sedan with 4 wheel independent suspension.

Weight Specification:
1500g weight

Body Specifications:
Any 190mm or 200mm body. 1960 to 79 Either HPI or Others suitable, SMA has made variation to include Australian Muscle.. No Slanted or modern Japanese cars etc..

Tire & Wheel Specifications:
Tires-Any treaded HPI Vintage #4793 Fronts # 4797 Rears
Wheels- Any HPI Vintage 26 Front 32 Rear Example #3815 Fronts #3820 Rears

Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860, Vintage Wheel CC Type #33472 and #33473, Vintage Wheel DTP Type #33474 and #33475 are all legal wheels.

Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm.

Motor Specifications:
21.5 + 2s lipo batteries No tuning rotors, must use OEM rotor 12.3-12.5mm (Motor itself can have timing as per approved 21.5 list) Check the ROAR List HERE http://www.roarracing.com/approvals/...lessmotors.php

Approved ESCs:
No Timing Just Stock or Blinky ESC ROAR approved spec software or USVTA list
Some popular Types but not limited to include;

#Hobby Wing Just Stock
#Hobby Wing 120 with Blinky
#Speed Passion Just Stock
#Novak Kinetic with Blinky
#GTB Just Stock
#Reedy Just Stock

For More ESC Options Check ROAR List HERE http://www.roarracing.com/?page_id=737

Race Specification:
5 minute qualifiers
5 minute mains

Battery Specifications:
ROAR approved hard case batteries Check ROAR List HERE http://www.roarracing.org/?page_id=259


... UPDATED BODY LIST WITH THE NEWEST BODIES AVAILABLE ...

HERE ARESome Body's and part numbers available for VTA from various manufacturers

Bolink part numbers:
BL2262 '68 Chevrolet Camaro
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2262
BL2263 '65 Ford Mustang
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2263
NEW # BOL2287 1970 Plymouth Wedge Road Runner
NEW # BOL2257 1969 Dukes of Hazard Charger
NEW # BOL2264 1964 Cadillac
NEW # BOL2265 1974 Tallageda
NEW # BOL2286 1972 Mercury

HPI part numbers:
17510 - 1970 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda
7494 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro
17531 - 1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
17508 - 1965 Ford Shelby GT-350
17519 - 1966 Ford Mustang GT
104926 - 1966 FORD MUSTANG GT COUPE BODY
105106 - 1970 DODGE CHALLENGER BODY
100639 - 1967 CHEV CORVETTE -Painted Black Body
100473 - 1967 CHEV CORVETTE -Painted Blue Body
NEW 107201 -1978 PONTIAC TRANS AM Body

Note:
For the HPI Mustangs which are not provided with a spoiler:
A lexan spoiler of 16mm total height from trunk deck, and overall chord of 20mm is allowable. All other bodies must use the spoiler included with that specific body set. Built in spoilers may not be enhanced. 17546 - 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 (scale wing ok)

Parma part numbers:
10196 - Parma 61 Chevy Impala Body
10143 - 1969 Z28 Camaro
10141 - 1970 Boss Mustang
10113 - 1970 'Cuda

Pegasus Hobbies part numbers:
NEW PGH4000 - 1964 Chev Impala
PGH4001 - 1970 Camaro SS
PGH4002 - 1970 'Cuda
PGH4003 - 1970 Mustang

Protoform part numbers:
#1526 - 1971 Javelin SS

McAllister Racing part numbers:
#286- 1969 Mustang body

RC CAR KINGS:
#RAE719 - 1978 Smokey and the Bandit Pontiac

Great Vigor:
#210119 - Holden XU1 Torana
After May the A9X will be Released!!

Exclusive Collectibles:
#2006B - Ford XY GT Red
#2010B - Ford XY GT Gold

EUREKA:
#MUSCLE5 - Holden SLR 5000

alloyslash

iTrader: (19)

The 200mm is measured at the rear fenderwell. You guys have a wider selection of bodies than we do, 50g lighter, and a 21.5 instead of a 25.5 like we run. Thats cool, I'll have to look up some of those bodies to see what they look like.

Rozzt_iwa

+ YouTube Video

this is VTA aussie style
and we are known as crazy

bertottius

iTrader: (28)

I'm trying to get a consensus on timing for the 25.5 motors. Who runs full timing and who runs no timing etc?

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Small Track timing cranked down all the way.
med track cranked up all the way
Large to really Stupid about middle to 2/3 full. Just to keep the heat down.

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

thanks for that info.. I noticed the 2 different wheel sizes when i was looking and was confused a little...

our club rules are pretty simple

Motor: 21.5 Brushless motor ROAR Approved
ESC: No ESC timing or boost.
Battery: ROAR approved 2S Li-po hard case batteries only
Tires: HPI VTA Spec tires
Weight: Minimum weight 1450g
Bodies: Vintage Trans-Am spec bodies only. Driver and/or lights preferred, but not required.

Does having the offset in the rear help? I didnt notice anyone at the club having a offset,

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

Actually looking at doing lights in the next body I have, anyone have suggestions on how to do it fairly realistically? Probably going to be using a Javelin, if not, I'll be using a Camaro or Cuda/Challenger. Top choice being the J71. I know I've done Led's in a short course body before, mainly to keep direction well when running on a track with dark spots at night, I'd prefer for this to be more scale looking. Getting 4 lights for the front seems it'd be fairly easy, the back tail lights might take a bit more ingenuity. I'm also going to do this so there is minimal worry of them falling out during a race, as I'd hate to lose because of lights......

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

I always run full timing on my Ballistic 25.5.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

Unless you create some sort of reflector (from old flashlights or something) it is more difficult to make the lights look scale. One technique some of the locals have been using is to not paint the lights (head or tail) then apply the stickers and shine white LED's through them. The rears look red through the tailight stickers and the fronts white. It also difuses the light and makes them look more like the shape of the actual light and not the pinpoint of the bulb.

Make sure the wiring is all loomed and attached firmly and out of the way, as that is the biggest worry, wrapping wires around an axle or belt. Many of the USGT drivers here run lights all the time and while the light's don't always survive the race, the cars usually do.

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

I'm actually going to try to find LED's (or something similar) for the front that are as large as the same size as the sticker. The taillights, I'm less worried about. Yea, the wires being outta the way of the axle is my largest concern. Any pics of local guys rides that do the lights?

I also guess I meant more size wise scale, the reflectors etc, will take more planning and thought, though I'd like to go there sometime.

6376vette

It sounds like you will be building your own light harness. Be sure to use the proper resistor for your led choices. you can use 12v lights but they will be way down on brightness. its better to use a 2 v led and resist the input voltage so it doesn't burn out.

as far as securing the harness.....duct tape it to the inside of the body. holds securely without adding a lot of weight.

DontChangeUSVTA

Somebody please clarify. No LED's are required for USVTA racing. Correct?