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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

Old 10-22-2012, 05:56 PM
  #2236  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
well Im hooked on the TC4 Club Racer for VTA...this car/chassis is great for the class...

for 2 weekends Ive run the car and its great...1st weekend with it I turned a fast lap of 12.6, this weekend dropped to 12.3's, which is on par with low 12's from the Nats(12.1's fastest)

1st weekend it was straight out the box with no setup and it was good...

this is what I did this weekend

5mm ride height f/r
7 droop front
6 droop rear
35wt(AE) front
30wt(AE) rear
-1.5 camber f/r
removed 8 metal srews in the bottom of the chassis and put in FT blue aluminum screws

ele...

Hobbywing Justock esc...open box settings...
Novak SS 25.5 reman, ring on motor at full motor timming
Robinson 78 spur/Trinity 54 pinion FDR 3.61
AE fan duct system
XP servo

car weighs in at 1553 without driver figure(Im out) running HPI 69 Chevy Z28 Camaro w/ shoo goo front and rear
New Tires all around and 2mm washers on front( I do have a little rub on the body)

no parts were broken or damaged....

This chassis is perfect...Ive always like my TC3, but this car works well and straight out the box
What springs?????
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:47 PM
  #2237  
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blue f/r
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:09 PM
  #2238  
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For new tires I just mount them and then the next day do a couple speed passes (5-6 passes) on concrete driveway just to knock the mold seam down. When I get to track I just sauce the whole tire front and rear then let sit while I finish setting my pit up. Wipe them dry really good then resauce. go say my hello's then put it on the track. First heating tires up a second or 2 in the starting area before walking up the stand. Im no expert by any means but works for me. I adjust how much front sauce from there based on push or oversteer going on while practicing.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:15 PM
  #2239  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
staying with the best lipo for VTA...Reedy 5000 25C Wolfpack...just need one for this chassis...Im using same lipo for 2 classes...lol...ran 3 classes Sunday, with one charger LRP Pulsar Touch, and 2 lipos...Wolfpack and Reedy 6500 65C
Got mine friday (5000 wolfpack). Realy excited to try it out. Also got an equinox balancer and other odds and ends for the G.O.R.C. race. Taking all my weights off and resetting it up using some of what scott taught me as well as you and the other thunder guys. Been reading that XXX Main TC Set up book too, so I can try to adjust set up down at hotshots as needed.

If I can get the VTA all figured out I may either buy quinns TC5 since he dont seem to be interested in racing anymore, or a TC6 and building a USGT car also
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:37 AM
  #2240  
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On the subject of batteries. I got 2 of Eric Anderson's VTA 70c 5000 packs. They are rated for a 3c charge rate (15a). They are some great packs compared to what I had previously, so I want to make sure that I'm using them properly and not slowly killing the life of them

What is everyone's usual charge rates on a pack like these? I've been hitting them with about 10-12a of charge rate, would less be better on them or should I hit them with the full force? The instruction sheet said to never charge them below a 1c (5a) rate.

After a race some people "dump" their packs. Are yall discharging them to 6v and then charging back up to storage voltage ( 7.4v-7.6v)?
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:12 AM
  #2241  
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I'm new to VTA and I need a clarifacation on the battery rule. Is it any 5000mhp battery or up to 5000.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:32 AM
  #2242  
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up to 5000mah battery is the rule. Someone correct me, but I'm certain this is it. Reason being, keeping guys from going and buying the new hottest battery for the class to an extent. Most people can find a reasonably priced 5000mah battery that will work.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:44 AM
  #2243  
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Anyone looking for a VTA car?? I have one listed on R/C tech. Sakura Zero with VTA wheels, body, driver figure and servo. Very good setup. Thanks for looking
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:31 AM
  #2244  
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I only charge at one C. But that's me
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:20 AM
  #2245  
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Originally Posted by alloyslash
On the subject of batteries. I got 2 of Eric Anderson's VTA 70c 5000 packs. They are rated for a 3c charge rate (15a). They are some great packs compared to what I had previously, so I want to make sure that I'm using them properly and not slowly killing the life of them

What is everyone's usual charge rates on a pack like these? I've been hitting them with about 10-12a of charge rate, would less be better on them or should I hit them with the full force? The instruction sheet said to never charge them below a 1c (5a) rate.

After a race some people "dump" their packs. Are yall discharging them to 6v and then charging back up to storage voltage ( 7.4v-7.6v)?
I replied back to your PM but I'll post here as well.

After I finish racing for the day I will just put my packs away with what ever charge is left in them after a 5-6 minute race and leave them until next race day. When I get there for the next race day I will discharge them first and then fully charge them for practice. It seems to help them last longer and perform much better all day when doing this. I normally charge at 15 amps but have gone to 20 with absolutely no issues at all...ever. But I usually only crank them up that high if I am running behind on time or forgot to charge. 12-15 is a good safe number for guys wanting to charge higher to get on the track quicker. I never store a pack below 7 volts for a long period of time either.

Thanks
EA
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:52 AM
  #2246  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
staying with the best lipo for VTA...Reedy 5000 25C Wolfpack...just need one for this chassis...Im using same lipo for 2 classes...lol...ran 3 classes Sunday, with one charger LRP Pulsar Touch, and 2 lipos...Wolfpack and Reedy 6500 65C





I tried all of these years ago...and the performace was never better than natural wear...

dope the tire with sauce and run it...tire warmers help as well..this will give you the longest wear and use of the tires...imo

Now for big events that require tread across and break in is not possible...here is my trick

new set of tires and open the package
remove the foams and put the tires in the bag
add Reino's Magic Marinade to the tires in the package
fold the top of the package and seal it(staples)
massage the tires and sauce in real good
put them out in the sun for a 1 hour or 2( but make sure you watch them, you dont want them to swell)
then remove the tires from the bag and clean with Reino's cleaner
let them completely dry
finally let them sit like I do for reg club mount
extra soft and very ready to turn fast laps off the start
draw back...tires wear really fast
Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed. HPI Vintage Slicks and HPI Vintage Performance Tires are not allowed. Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed. No "double stuffing" of foam inserts allowed—only single stock vintage tire inserts are allowed.

sorry guys this method is in violation of the rules...
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:57 AM
  #2247  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
I replied back to your PM but I'll post here as well.

After I finish racing for the day I will just put my packs away with what ever charge is left in them after a 5-6 minute race and leave them until next race day. When I get there for the next race day I will discharge them first and then fully charge them for practice. It seems to help them last longer and perform much better all day when doing this. I normally charge at 15 amps but have gone to 20 with absolutely no issues at all...ever. But I usually only crank them up that high if I am running behind on time or forgot to charge. 12-15 is a good safe number for guys wanting to charge higher to get on the track quicker. I never store a pack below 7 volts for a long period of time either.

Thanks
EA
thanks EA...also..charging at 12-15, does it decrease the life of the battery at all?
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:10 AM
  #2248  
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EA my VTA ride is a dog and I think its the motor. What procedures would you reccomend to determine if this is the case?
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:10 AM
  #2249  
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One click, two post. Go figure. Only happens on the office computer and not always there.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:24 AM
  #2250  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed. HPI Vintage Slicks and HPI Vintage Performance Tires are not allowed. Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed. No "double stuffing" of foam inserts allowed—only single stock vintage tire inserts are allowed.

sorry guys this method is in violation of the rules...
Here is my interpretation of what you are doing...
Using a tire sauce and storing in a bag is totally legal. When Doug Carter came up with the part about softening it was more in reference to things like momentarily lighting tires on fire and other stupid/dangerous practices. If tire sauce is allowed at all by definition that softens the tire. You are acceleratong tire wear if you sauce the tires at the track or if you do it at home. What we want to prevent is guys running ground down slicks or people feeling they have to do dangerous stuff to make the tires work.
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