Jim Hustins

iTrader: (4)

What type of surface? If carpet it must be the grey carpet because the new black has crazy grip. Are you using any traction compound?

19_mustang_96

iTrader: (103)

Its the gray carpet. I will have to see if tire dope is allowed. What traction compound would you remend?

Jim Hustins

iTrader: (4)

SXT is very popular but the track may have rules for what they allow. When I raced mine on the grey carpet I could not get around without SXT. As soon as I put it on it was a completely different car.

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

Drive some donuts on rough concrete/ asphalt for a battery life.
Then coat them in sxt, and ziploc them.
Avoid paragon, the tires will balloon out of shape.

regets ama

FYI,

You might want to check any recently purchased Novak BOSS 25.5 motor for the installed rotor type.

Mine came with the 5600-1 TUNING rotor (which actually measures very low gauss measurements, has very weak strength).

I asked for a replacement from the source I purchased and it too came with a TUNING rotor. This was all within the last two weeks.

I'm hoping these are now legal!

(I actually video taped the second one I opened new in package)

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Scuff the tires up with a heavy duty scotch brite pad, then coat them with a coat of Paragon black can, put it in a ziplock sandwich bag. Next day put another coat of Paragon on it. If after another day it's not soft enough, put a 3rd and final coat on. That should do it, should be ready for the track.

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Just dope the tires with the allowed/recommended compound for 20 or so minutes and drive the car. Lightly wipe before putting the car on the track. They should grip very well after 2-3 runs at the most. There's no voodoo here. The mold release will mostly rub off in the first run.

Jim Hustins

iTrader: (4)

Rules state that you are not allowed to soften the tires. I do believe this would be cheating.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

...AND if you drove the car without compound I can pretty well guarantee that you picked up a bunch of rubber on your tires...you can see the wavy build up on them if you look closely. You will have difficulty getting traction with those tires until you clean that build up off.

I've got tire cleaner, I've used motor spray, you could probably use 91% denatured/isopropyl alcohol (NOT the 70% "rubbing alcohol"), some sturdy towels, and a LOT of elbow grease. Do yourself a favor and clean 'em up, then never run them without traction compound again.

freebird

iTrader: (3)

????????? you have black and white to say so? I don't recall any such ruling; and why then when I travel to larger events everyone is working on their tires with sanding sticks and glue and traction compounds.

iadevil

iTrader: (54)

Per the USVTA rules at http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html

Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed.

freebird

iTrader: (3)

Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed. HPI Vintage Slicks and HPI Vintage Performance Tires are not allowed. Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed. Tires may not be belted or changed to prevent "ballooning". All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final. No "double stuffing" of foam inserts allowed—only single stock vintage tire inserts are allowed.
copied and pasted from the usvta rules...... use the grey areas not mentioned go to large VTA races or get stuck in the C D E F G H mains. Been there done that.

anr211

iTrader: (11)

What grey area stuff do you think people are doing to their tires? At any bigger race with good traction the newer (and consequently harder) tires are faster.

Troubles Dad

iTrader: (204)

you had posted this and been thinking about this and doing some timing checks with various other 25.5 motors, the part I don't understand is when the amp draw starts to outpace the rpms part, as I checked my motor vs my sons, vs the rest of the motors
my motor reads 17,500 rpm timing at 45 degrees and amp draw at 3.1
my sons reads 16,100 rpm 46 degrees of timing and amp draw at 2.5
#3 motor reads 20,100 rpm timing at 50 degrees and amp draw at 5.5
#2 motor reads 19,100 rpm timing at 46 degrees and amp draw at 4.0

as you can see, I have several motors some the boss edition and some that state ballistic on the label, and I realize that on track performance will tell me what is the better motor, the problem is that I have limited access to track and track time when I go, so being prepared is key here, as my last outing at the track showed that my son could keep up, both of the cars are the same, the only difference would be he used a 90c 5,000mah pack and I used a 100c 5,000mah pack, they are both geared the same and our motors temped in around 135-140
so when you say to outpace rpms, what exactly are you looking at and what I originally had asked was getting a general idea on where the timing should be, as if you told me that you ran 55 degrees of timing and the motor was super hot, then I would keep it under that, but if you told me that you ran your motor at 60 degrees and lapped the field it would give me a number to be looking for, and it would also give me the amp draw number as well, as I honestly have no idea on what is a good number vs a bad number, as I was told a few years back to keep it under 2.6 and above 1.8 to make the motor most efficient, and yes I know that their are other things to the vta thing, just my focus right now is on the motor end of the problem, so any and all advice will be greatly appreciated

Travis S

iTrader: (46)

I am not a motor master by any means but what I have learned is:

It's really hard to say unless you have a coil resistance meter to test the stators and a gauss meter to test the rotor strength. The lowest resistance stator is the one you would want to go with. Lower resistance = more efficient and will run cooler/better at higher timing.

A weaker rotor will make the RPM much higher, but doesn't mean that because the motor RPM is higher that it is a better motor. So a gauss meter to test rotor strength is helpful. Normally the higher strength rotor the better for stock type racing.

So... I guess if you are really board you test each motor using the same rotor. Try to get the amp draw identical to each other and see what RPM readouts there are. I would try to get them all to the same amp draw (around 3.5) and use thee RPM timing info to help pick your "best" motor(s). This all sounds like a lot of work and most likely this time is better off getting a better setup and track time.

Something else to consider on your timing is going to be how long of a race or qualifier you are in. A 5 min race you most likely can run something with the higher amp draw and be fine. The issue will be "fall off" or "fade" after 4-5 minutes. If you car slows down a lot due to motor heat and battery draining faster due to more amp draw then the timing is to high. Depending how many big of a race I am attending and/or how lazy I am... I will adjust my timing a couple degrees higher in the qualifiers then I would in an 8 min main.