mooby64

iTrader: (3)

As you gradually add timing, the RPM, KV and Amp draw increase. I found if the timing gets too high, the amp draw jumped drastically.

Just my 2 cents.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

USVTA rules are very specific regarding bodies that are allowed and this isn't one of them. It is over an inch too wide for a 190mm TC chassis anyway. 9 in wide bodies are meant for off-road cars converted to run on-road or oval.

John Wallace2

Just curious, where did you find the amp draw spiked (in real timing not end bell timing) on your VTA motor?

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

50* and above. The RPM's jump is insane, but the APM draw will kill your motor and/or your run time.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

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McAllister makes a wide variety of cars. The 1966 Chevelle is part of their line of 1/10 Dirt Oval bodies.

http://mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page801.htm

Since the Chevelle is 9 1/2 inches wide, it would be over 240mm wide. This wouldn't look very good on the average electric touring chassis, which is typically around 190mm wide when using standard touring tires. Even with VTA tires, the body would be way too wide.

The only car currently on the McAllister's Dirt Oval body page that would work on a standard touring car is the '57 Ford Bomber. McAllister also had a Chevy Bomber body, but I didn't see that listed.

You might consider contacting McAllister directly about wanting a Chevelle body that would fit a 1/10 touring car chassis. They have listened to racer requests for new VTA bodies in the past, so they might be interested in creating this body in an appropriate scale. Here is their contact info


McAllister Racing
Contact us at (928) 714-1799

e-mail [email protected]

www.mcallisterracing.com


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It is possible to modify any existing body to fit any existing chassis, depending on what the end result you are trying to achieve. I've seen plenty of examples of 1/10 touring bodies mounted on monster truck chassis to varying degrees of success. I've also read where people have taken wider bodies and cut them down the middle to fit on narrower cars.

Older wide pan car chassis could use a 9" body, such as the AE RC10LWide. There are also newer versions of the wide onroad pan cars that would work too. Check out the Pro10: 235mm LeMans thread here on RCTECH for more info (http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...iscussion.html). Also check out this link on McAllister for wide pan car bodies (http://mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page755.htm)

Finally there are several companies that make dedicated dirt oval chassis, which are definately not a converted offroad vehicle. One such company is Custom Works, which is owned by Tony Stewart. Here is a link to their website (http://www.customworksrc.com)

John Wallace2

Thanks

hotrodchevy14

iTrader: (115)

I have to ask. What do you mean by real timing?

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

The timing sticker on the Novak motors are not accurate. Using the Motor Checker, you cam find the actual timing.

On one of my motors, I set timing to the 30* mark on the end bell. The motor checker showed the timing was actually 6*.

John Wallace2

Real timing is what you see from the Motorliser, the G force, or some other device. This is not always the same as what the end timing marks indicate. For example, my vta motor at 45 degrees of end bell timing was nearly 59 degrees on my Motorliser. With that amount of timing, it cogged badly and my car needed to be pushed to get it started. When I turned down the timing to 45 degrees real timing (around 35 degrees on the end bell) the motor ran great. Only a few of the many motors I've tested have the Motorliser and end bell timing agreed. Some motors the end bell timing is greater than the real timing, others it is less, and some OEM motors can be either way. That's why many of us try to distinguish between end bell timing and real timing from our tools (albeit either the Motorliser or G force). While I haven't worked with the G force, the reports I've seen seem to be consistent with my Motorliser results on similar motors.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

good info. may have to look at one of these as having the motor on point would be nice.

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

I think it is well worth $100.

ic-racer

Just starting VTA and putting together cars for myself and my two sons. I have noticed (as I see others have also) then three new NOVAC 25.5 motors we got seem to have the timing decal way off. My tester shows zero degrees to correspond to about "30" on the endbell on all 3 motors. On the Fantom dyno all three seemed perform best at 15 degrees actual (45 on the endbell).

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

Having a motor checker or dyno lets you compare apples to apples. I don't think there is a "perfect timing", but these units are a big help.

John Wallace2

Wow that is about the worse gap between end bell and "real" timing that I've head of. What motor checker are you using? Sure glad I persisted in my fight to get the usvta 45 degree end bell timing rule over turned because of that timing decal issue. Assuming your fantom dyno is the one with the flywheel, set the actual timing at 45 degrees and run again on the dyno. Then compare both power curves and see which one you like better.

mikel33

iTrader: (2)

I've been reading this with interest. I know that not all of the motor mfr's consider '0' timing the same thing, odd as that sounds. If I understand correctly, Novak uses 'true zero' whereas most other mfr's use something different as 'zero'. I can't remember the entire discussion and I could be grossly misrepresenting the facts but there was clearly a difference in where Novak considered 'zero'. If the motor checkers are using an algorithm that assumes zero is somewhere else that aligns with what the majority of mfr's use could that explain some of what you are seeing? I freely admit I could be completely, ass-backwards wrong.... just trying to piece together different things I've had conversations about.