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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 12-06-2014, 04:42 AM
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Prevent the flex when I turn in 3 feet to early!! Lol... Anyone know a place to get big chunks of foam?[/QUOTE]

I use a foam block from parma and cut it to fit the body.


http://www.amain.com/parma-pse-unive...e2LRoCYPfw_wcB
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
I actually do like the driver -figure part, you have to get creative with how you mount them up. I have a set-up that is "quick release" and I can slap any shell on, I don't glue the driver to the body itself as some do. It's a cool part of the class to have the added realism.
I do too. Don't you guys who want to eliminate the driver rule ever look at your cars when you are not blasting around the track?

For me, one of the main reasons I wanted to run this class when I was introduced to it (Thanks Bob!) was because these are scale looking muscle cars with realistic tires and rims. I like the speed of the 17.5 TC and other classes, but the sweep type tires/wheels/bodies can make them look like toys from Fisher-Price.

Guess I'm old school, and proud of it, but if VTA is just another class to you where the only difference you see is motor turns and a different molded lexan clam shell, then you don't understand "The spirit of VTA" that most of us dig. If you look at the photos below, you will see driver "figures" inside each car. That's the look I think the founders of the class were going for.
Attached Thumbnails U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-three20_zr7r_21.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-iphonetemp-539.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-img_3375.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-1968_chevrolet_camaro_road_race_car_front.jpg  
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
I actually do like the driver -figure part, you have to get creative with how you mount them up. I have a set-up that is "quick release" and I can slap any shell on, I don't glue the driver to the body itself as some do. It's a cool part of the class to have the added realism.
Got a pic of your quick release setup?
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by theproffesor View Post
There is no best tire. You have to run the HPI vintage tire. The correct part number is on the USVTA website. But you need to use traction compoun(stx 3.0 works great). And it will take a few runs to break the tires in before they start to work really well. Driver is in the rules. So... I dont run one, but I will if I ever go to a big race.
Admit it...you don't run it because you calculated it will raise the CG by 0.25mm...

See you Sunday,

Mark
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Walito View Post
This is firtst time in Puerto Rico that we running this category. Some help with the tires. What is the best tire to run in carpet.

They need the driver in the body??

Thanks
What car you running? Did you sell your T4 14'? I know that you pay attention to the details...you can get a prepainted driver figure or you can paint your own...heck you can even mount a pink haired troll in the car if you like. As for the tires as was said you can only use the vintage tires. Hit me up if you need the Spanglish translation bro..unless you lost my number.
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:52 AM
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question on battery here, last race had my servo horn loosen up down the straight into the first turn and hit the wall and upper door pretty hard, cracked the battery case.

Anything I should look out for on the battery in particular?

Also, if anyone has any tips on an inner driver figure quick mount setup, let me know. Would like something simple and prepainted if possible to pick up.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
question on battery here, last race had my servo horn loosen up down the straight into the first turn and hit the wall and upper door pretty hard, cracked the battery case.

Anything I should look out for on the battery in particular?

Also, if anyone has any tips on an inner driver figure quick mount setup, let me know. Would like something simple and prepainted if possible to pick up.
You would already know if you damaged the battery. But try to make sure if there is a crack in the case there isn't a sharp edge on the inner portion of the case. Other than that its fine.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:09 AM
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sounds good thanks.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Also, if anyone has any tips on an inner driver figure quick mount setup, let me know. Would like something simple and prepainted if possible to pick up.
You'll find more driver figure tips in the VTA body/paint thread, and specifically in this recent post here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13681952-post5176.html

Here's what I did for my driver. I needed something light, LOL. His spine is zip tied to the motor leads coming out of my Justock ESC.



BTW, our club doesn't require a driver. But I think it's a cool rule and I keep Ol' Bones strapped in for the fun of it.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
You'll find more driver figure tips in the VTA body/paint thread, and specifically in this recent post here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13681952-post5176.html

Here's what I did for my driver. I needed something light, LOL. His spine is zip tied to the motor leads coming out of my Justock ESC.



BTW, our club doesn't require a driver. But I think it's a cool rule and I keep Ol' Bones strapped in for the fun of it.
thanks for the info. I figure since making weight can be a bit of a challenge, this could help even if alittle bit.
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:41 PM
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For reinforcing bodies, use the wing joining fiberglass strips at your LHS. I put Shoe Goo on the body first, then use a squeegee/bondo spreader to put the fiberglass strips on top of it to spread it evenly and permeate the strip with Shoe Goo. It is MUCH stronger than the drywall tape that you get at Lowe's or Home Depot.
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:43 PM
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For driver figures, the one from HPI is cool. It is a driver and co-driver for an off road truck, so you can get two for the price of one. I use a drop of Shoe Goo on the top of the helmet and one on the front of the dash to install it in the body.
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:43 PM
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Old 12-06-2014, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
For reinforcing bodies, use the wing joining fiberglass strips at your LHS. I put Shoe Goo on the body first, then use a squeegee/bondo spreader to put the fiberglass strips on top of it to spread it evenly and permeate the strip with Shoe Goo. It is MUCH stronger than the drywall tape that you get at Lowe's or Home Depot.
I got some of that in I believe on another recommendation but it seemed to just fray a lot when I used it. Strong for sure though, I used it on my daughters SCT at the time where the cutouts were.

cost though was up there for what I felt I got in comparison to the drywall tape, but still, definitely strong.

Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
Hmm, nice. I should add a female head to the passenger and maybe a sound box so I can simulate my wife's side seat driving.
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Got a pic of your quick release setup?
My simple solution...
Attached Thumbnails U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-df-1.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-df-2.jpg  
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