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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 02-15-2013, 07:23 PM
  #4141  
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd
One of these random thoughts that occasionaly pops into my head.

How many of us use the information provided to us after a run to evaluate our overall performance, car and driver?

Fast lap vs Last Lap over the course of a run in regards to battery performance and gearing/timing?

Motor Temp vs gearing/timing, I know we all look at this, but have you factored in the voltage of the battery after your run and how much we are putting back?

Heat race gearing vs 8 minute main gearing?? How many change gearing for each?

The car whose tires are "squerking" vs the faster car that doesn't make a sound in the corner?

Is your car a touch "pushy" loose in the front side of the run and get better later, or is it on rails up front and tighten up and slow down later?

I know we have all experienced a "soft feel" to the car somewhere in the run, but have you used the above to help diagnose the issue, or just adressed gearing timing?

On our current layout, I will typically use around 950 mah on a 6 minute run and about 1200 on an 8 minute run, with battery voltage at 8.1V after 6 and 8v after 8.

Just a random question to think about
Sounds like the stuff we did in the 80's where we geared are cars to last 4 minutes, no hot laps and nobody was woried about motor temps, just runtime.

Any VTA should easily run 20+ minuts on a 5000 lipo.

drop it and drive it like you stole it
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:31 PM
  #4142  
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer
people like you take the spirit out of VTA just throw it down and drive it!
Originally Posted by SoAzRC
Yep... my thoughts exactly. I work on it on the bench and tweak in practice, but for the most part it's all about the racin'.
Originally Posted by Rojna
Sounds like the stuff we did in the 80's where we geared are cars to last 4 minutes, no hot laps and nobody was woried about motor temps, just runtime.

Any VTA should easily run 20+ minuts on a 5000 lipo.

drop it and drive it like you stole it

:-) couldn't tell ya the last time I worked on mine.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:32 PM
  #4143  
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd
One of these random thoughts that occasionaly pops into my head.

How many of us use the information provided to us after a run to evaluate our overall performance, car and driver?

Fast lap vs Last Lap over the course of a run in regards to battery performance and gearing/timing?

Motor Temp vs gearing/timing, I know we all look at this, but have you factored in the voltage of the battery after your run and how much we are putting back?

Heat race gearing vs 8 minute main gearing?? How many change gearing for each?

The car whose tires are "squerking" vs the faster car that doesn't make a sound in the corner?

Is your car a touch "pushy" loose in the front side of the run and get better later, or is it on rails up front and tighten up and slow down later?

I know we have all experienced a "soft feel" to the car somewhere in the run, but have you used the above to help diagnose the issue, or just adressed gearing timing?

On our current layout, I will typically use around 950 mah on a 6 minute run and about 1200 on an 8 minute run, with battery voltage at 8.1V after 6 and 8v after 8.

Just a random question to think about
I'll run this class from time to time because I've chosen NOT to think about any of the points mentioned above. If I want to address the "finer points" of R/C racing, I'll direct that energy towards a class that makes me want to pull my hair out by day's end...

VTA - build it and tweak it, then drive it and forget it.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:39 PM
  #4144  
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd
:-) couldn't tell ya the last time I worked on mine.
everybody was giving me a hard time about running VTA at snowbirds but I was like I'm running 4 classes I figured I could top 3 in vta even if I never touched the car which is what I did.

VTA charge dope drive laugh charge dope drive cut up charge dope drive smile
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:06 AM
  #4145  
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd
Not really, they both are adjustable though to get the feeling you want. IMO, hobbywing based products have a smoother/"spongy" feel on the brake side. It may just be me though.
We owned two... I'm still not convinced that they had actual working brakes.

Dumped them and went back to Novak esc's and the brakes were much better. That's assuming you actually NEED brake, my other half apparently does not.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:50 PM
  #4146  
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Default HPI 1970 Mustang Boss 302 Body (200mm)

First off, no it isn't a question about the wing

If anyone has run this body on an Xray T3 2011, did you have to cut the front bumper? I ask because I do and I did have to cut the bumper so that the wheel wells would fall in the right place. I was just wondering if anyone had an alternative solution.

Thanks!
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:47 PM
  #4147  
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I'm running it on a Spec-R S1 and I had to trim the foam bumper about 1/4". Not hard to do with an exacto.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:24 AM
  #4148  
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Hello everyone I'm new to vta, ill be running a xray t2 09. My question is I'm big ford person. So I have a mustang body of course also I have a lotus consul(cortina) body I want to run in vta. They made these cars in 64 and raced I the US in late 60's in the trans series but ran in the slower class in the series. So it this body legal since it did race in trans am series or not legal because its not iconic American muscle cars? Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:04 AM
  #4149  
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Originally Posted by Rebelracer568
Hello everyone I'm new to vta, ill be running a xray t2 09. My question is I'm big ford person. So I have a mustang body of course also I have a lotus consul(cortina) body I want to run in vta. They made these cars in 64 and raced I the US in late 60's in the trans series but ran in the slower class in the series. So it this body legal since it did race in trans am series or not legal because its not iconic American muscle cars? Thanks for the help.
It's not legal because it's not on this list.

http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html

It's up to your local club or race director if they want to make an exception like some do for the old Stingray body.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:26 AM
  #4150  
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Originally Posted by Rebelracer568
Hello everyone I'm new to vta, ill be running a xray t2 09. My question is I'm big ford person. So I have a mustang body of course also I have a lotus consul(cortina) body I want to run in vta. They made these cars in 64 and raced I the US in late 60's in the trans series but ran in the slower class in the series. So it this body legal since it did race in trans am series or not legal because its not iconic American muscle cars? Thanks for the help.
You can run it, but you have to run at 75% throttle.

Don't worry, you'll win the U-2 class...




[/humor]
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:27 AM
  #4151  
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I figured as much, thought I'd ask and see. I read rules And made sure I got bodies that were legal. I just love the cortina cars and wanted to use it. I guess it will be a practice body for me. Thank you
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:29 AM
  #4152  
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Originally Posted by .crispy
You can run it, but you have to run at 75% throttle.

Don't worry, you'll win the U-2 class...




[/humor]
75% throttle I can handle that lol means I may not wreck as much considering I'm new to this series but not new to road racing lol
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:50 AM
  #4153  
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After reading this thread and the TC4 thread I thought the TC4 was supposed to be a real pig of a TC. I measured the race ready weight of my TC4 and it was underweight by 20oz!!!
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:05 AM
  #4154  
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Originally Posted by LasagnaCat
We owned two... I'm still not convinced that they had actual working brakes.

Dumped them and went back to Novak esc's and the brakes were much better. That's assuming you actually NEED brake, my other half apparently does not.
The latest justock software - "508_NO_TIMING" fixes the brakes. By default, they are set to only 75% strength - use the program box or the blinken lights to turn it up to 100%. Swap out the single cap it comes with, to the optional two capacitor kit ($8 bucks) as well. Do all that, and you can lock up the wheels. It's pretty sweet.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:08 AM
  #4155  
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out of the box mine had all the brakes I will ever need.
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