rdx4vta

First post here on tech, new to VTA, been in r/c for a long time otherwise. I am running an RDX(not the PHI) with the SS can club kit. Bought the car from a current VTA racer that went to another chassis, so the setup part of my quest is pretty solid to start from, just making minor tweaks here and there that he has passed on since upgrading for me to try. Current goal is to get within a lap or two of the A-main guys and try to improve from there.

Any and all advice welcome...

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

That could work, have you used one? My concern it the lighting. In the shop we race at there is a lot of flourescent lights and I have been told those don't work well with those...or is it the other way around.

It is reflective tape or just regular old tape?

Marv

iTrader: (2)

6376vette

Yes the bearings will make a performance difference. if you are looking for seconds a lap you won't notice it. if you are looking for tenths or half tenths you will notice it. Our racers were chasing these tenths.

6376vette

Not the point here. the point is that the rules state that bodies must be cut on the cut line. Not wherever you want to cut them as long as it looks good.

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

I've used more expensive optical tachs, but not the Cen-Tech. The expensive ones could read a white line painted on a shaft or flywheel from a couple of feet away. I'd guess that they used a modulated laser diode and synchronous detection to get that kind of performance. (The modulation/detection rejects ambient light and 120Hz noise.)

Don't expect that of this Cen-Tech. It needs reflective tape, and is only spec'ed to work from a few inches away. But that's all you need. Harbor Freight has a 90 day refund policy just in case. For what it's worth, I've used other Cen-Tech test equipment with good results.

Aluminum tape made for air ducting worked well for me as the reflective surface. It's cheap and one roll lasts forever. You could require every car to have a piece on the rear rim for spot checks. Chrome rims already reflect great, so they would need some black electrical tape or duct tape as an "anti-reflective" surface.

This sounds fun enough that I might have to order one just for playing around! We don't have any gearing restrictions at our local track, but I raced a few weeks ago in Omaha, where they run 5.0 FDR.

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

People... some of you should just be downright ashamed of your selves!

Why does it take only a SIMPLE question to blow up a thread to this level to the point we have to put down half the people on this thread with comments such as "No common sense"

If I were new to racing and read through the past few pages of this thread there is NO WAY I would want to run this class.

A question on the rules is not common sense... it is a question! If we cannot welcome people to come to the forum to ask questions on the rules without being put down then what good is this forum!

If the rules are up to "interpretation" by the club or racers then there will always large amounts of gray area!

If I go to a national race where they are using USVTA rules... Will they allow a fan/heatsink... Simple question! Will it pass tech! Otherwise make a reference to roar's rule set regarding cooling devices and be done... None of this is common sense related... it is a question... Actually the people with the MOST common since ask questions instead of not knowing!

At this point we are left with no other choice then to make up our own interpretation of these rules at the club level.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

We took out FDR limit cue from omaha. Due tot he size of our track we decided that going lower would be a bit more fun. To be clear...our goal was to keep the speeds down.

It has frustrated people however just cause there is no way to equalize the speed for a motor that isn't performing the same as other motors. I would like to propose a change at our class that limits the RPM, not the gearing/timing. That way a person could tweak their car as much as they want as long as it doesn't exceed a certain RPM.

I have a tech that I use for my heli but it performs poorly indoors. I need something that can read under any type of light. I saw on amazon a noncontact laser tach that might be the answer. I may have to buy one for checking out.

I still like the idea of a box that the car is placed on the do the measurement. That way you aren't sticking things on the car in hopes they stay there. I might start a new thread so we don't much up the discussion here as it isn't a VTA rules concern. It is a tweak to the rules for our local track and that isn't a very popular subject here to approach. We are all aware at our track that the rules are different depending on where you race and are fine with it.

robk

iTrader: (22)

That is not what i said is it?

DontChangeUSVTA

+1000 ... Carry on .... Have fun!

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

well guys Ive had my share of pm's and texts today...lets try and understand what we are doing here(rctech)

I see the forum as a way to share info and ask questions that otherwise wouldnt be available.

so with that, lets see what questions are out there?

motor fan/heat sink...I think the easy answer is as long as you dont change the motor such as vented end bells, or dremelling holes in the can, or changing the rotor you will be fine.

as stated earlier, some TC chassis have built in heatsinks(TC3/4) that we would have to allow heatsinks on all chassis.

some heatsinks like LRP or Intergy have fans on them, so that would also allow fans.

Im going to get with Rob and others and see if we really need to revisit the rules for the 2013 season..or make things a little more defined.

What I would ask that any..ANY negative comment not be put on the open forum, as Ive said this over and over again, when ppl read your negative comments it rubs ppl the wrong way..and that effects the class growth. Im always open to pm's and texts...and I will do my part in getting the info to the correct ppl.

also...I try and be cool with everybody, but I say this in hope to clear where my loyalty is...

two types of ppl get on here to cause issues....

1. ppl who dont run the class
2. ppl who dont run under USVTA rules

most of the true USVTA racers see the rules as what they are, and are very happy to see them work at tracks across the country. But the USVTA isnt a closed book and there is always room for improvement.

Im loyal to the USVTA and the racers that support it. No matter what my personal thoughts are...and I havent always agreed with Rob/Doug or others about the rules, but I understand and bring my knowledge here to share with all the racers.

this is still a fairly new class and trying to continue to grow, and as long as positive thoughts and ideas are brought to the table, we can be at the front of the On-road RC racing scene

Myron Battman Kinnard

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

What do the letters stand for on this body? Oh, don't forget to post them in the VTA Paint thread here on RCTech (http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...sion-only.html)

I really like the creative use off the offset stripe. Too bad you didn't post it sitting on a TC3 box. I still have my original TC3 Racer kit box. I probably also have a few area 51 decals for that kit somewhere.

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

Years ago, I worked in an extrusion plant were we used footage meters for the conveyors. Something like this may be a better fit for what you are trying to do as it is a direct contact measurement. http://www.mechanicstoolsupply.com/P...r_p_16573.html

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Yeah, something like that would work but it is on the spendy side for now. I just want something that can reliably measure the wheel speed. I got a very helpful pm about using an old motor pod and brushed motor to get a voltage reading. I like this idea. Another idea was to use a bike speedo hooked up to a drum for the wheels to spin on.

Both of these ideas are great. I need to approach the local race director to see if this is something we want to explore. Keep an eye out for more details.

rcpaintinpete

iTrader: (16)

Todd I seen a dyno in the F1 THRED and it came with directions on how to
Make one http://www.rccartips.com/rc-car-dyno-cheap.htm

https://sites.google.com/site/simpledyno/
Check the UF1 site and look I don't remember what one had it