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Old 01-24-2005, 01:05 AM   #16
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This has been helpful to me also

- JB
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:10 AM   #17
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You can also read about droop (and a lot other setup stuff) here:
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:35 AM   #18
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That's awesome, THANX Cole ...

- JB
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Old 01-24-2005, 11:11 PM   #19
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I just lost three hours of my life reading through that site. Invaluable!
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Old 01-24-2005, 11:59 PM   #20
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Folks,

So how much droop u guys applied?? both front and back....

this is how I set mine (TB Evo4)
front: 2mm
rear: 3mm

Thanks
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:59 AM   #21
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so...

does more droop means longer down travel or..shorter?

which one... In RC its so confusing... some "more" means less... and some "more" means more... ... ... ... ...
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:07 AM   #22
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More droop means the wheels have more down travel, less is restricting the down travel. Hope that makes sense.

BTW on my 415, i use a yokomo gauge, and measure it off the same point on the suspension arms front and rear. I'm currently using 4 and 4 both front and rear, aint got a clue as too what that is in mm.
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Old 01-25-2005, 10:33 AM   #23
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Windtalkers thats about the same as i ran on my Yokomo and will start with on my Xray FK. Normally ill start with 2mm front and rear and go from there.

TRYHARD: Read the complete thread. U will see that most of us are using the Droop guages to ensure left to right symetry. But to get our uptravel(droop) we compare ride height at race ready state with ride height with shocks fully extended. The differnce between the two will be you droop.

If you look at windwalkers setup he runns 2mm front and 3mm rear. He will adjust this to keep these settings any time he changes ride height or tires. If he raises the car 1mm then his uptravel will change to 1mm front and 2mm rear. So he would need to adjust his droop screws to get back the uptravel he initially set for.

I just find that comparing "DROOP GUAGE" readings is not transferable from chasis to chassis, as there are differnt guages and different locations on the suspension manufacturers ask u to measuer frome, in either cars there is no compensation for tire diameter or ride heigh changes. Would u really want ot remove all 4 tires to change your droop? Or just use a ride height guage?
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Old 01-25-2005, 10:49 AM   #24
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I'm finding that I can just use the spring preload/slop to set the droop. Once the ride height is correct, I set them to "just a bit" of slop, technically probably about .010" of slop in the springs.
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:19 AM   #25
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Using the slop in the spring method is a good starting point for maximum droop but droop can be used as a very effective tuning aid. Droop controls how much yaw the chassis has under acceleration and braking and can also come into play during hard cornering.

If you have on on power push, take a little droop out of the front. The front of the car wont raise up as much under power and will put more load on the front tires. If you have a little too much steering under braking, take some droop out of the rear to prevent as much weight from transfering to the front tires.

I used to use the AE under the chassis droop gauge but couldnt ever get my car to feel right on the track. This type of droop gauge doesn't take chassis twist into account. If you use the block method such as the Hudy droop gauge, you will be able to have equal droop from side to side even if the chassis is slightly warped.
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