VBC new 1/10 touring car, Wildfire.
11-15-2012, 03:25 AM
#754
Any new info on the floating servo mounts? Eta on when they will be available??
11-15-2012, 05:54 AM
#755
11-16-2012, 07:06 PM
#757
Tech Initiate
shock caps
I see some people are drilling holes in the shock caps. Is there a diagram on where to drill and the reason for it?
11-23-2012, 05:34 PM
#760
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
rear:
http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719398
front:
http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719397
11-25-2012, 11:54 AM
#762
Hi All,
I was wondering if anyone has given the Flex Chassis a try? Was there a noticeable difference?
Thanks in advance.
I was wondering if anyone has given the Flex Chassis a try? Was there a noticeable difference?
Thanks in advance.
11-27-2012, 10:56 PM
#763
I have an interesting issue and hope a few of you can give me a few ideas on what to check. I raced this last saturday and had two good (bad 
) crashes. Both times I clipped the outside PVC pipe joint (where the PVC pipe slips together) and it ripped an arm off both times. First time it was the front arm. Second time it was the rear arm. I'm not surprised it broke an arm at all with how fast I was going when I clipped it. Thats not the issue. The issue is after fixing the second one (rear arm) I had it on the setup station and was checking everything. Decided to toss the toe gauge on the rear and noticed that the left was at 2 degrees in, and the right side was at 4 degrees in. I have the box toe blocks 3.0 in the rear and 0 in the front. So I should have 3.0 in on both sides. I did loosen the screws holding the toe blocks and got it to 2.5L and 3.5R I haven't had time to mess with it since but will have time this coming weekend.
I did replace the hinge pin as it was slightly bent. It seemed to bind as I rotated it in the new arm at a certain spot. Could I have bent the toe blocks?
) crashes. Both times I clipped the outside PVC pipe joint (where the PVC pipe slips together) and it ripped an arm off both times. First time it was the front arm. Second time it was the rear arm. I'm not surprised it broke an arm at all with how fast I was going when I clipped it. Thats not the issue. The issue is after fixing the second one (rear arm) I had it on the setup station and was checking everything. Decided to toss the toe gauge on the rear and noticed that the left was at 2 degrees in, and the right side was at 4 degrees in. I have the box toe blocks 3.0 in the rear and 0 in the front. So I should have 3.0 in on both sides. I did loosen the screws holding the toe blocks and got it to 2.5L and 3.5R I haven't had time to mess with it since but will have time this coming weekend. I did replace the hinge pin as it was slightly bent. It seemed to bind as I rotated it in the new arm at a certain spot. Could I have bent the toe blocks?
11-28-2012, 10:53 AM
#764
I have an interesting issue and hope a few of you can give me a few ideas on what to check. I raced this last saturday and had two good (bad ) crashes. Both times I clipped the outside PVC pipe joint (where the PVC pipe slips together) and it ripped an arm off both times. First time it was the front arm. Second time it was the rear arm. I'm not surprised it broke an arm at all with how fast I was going when I clipped it. Thats not the issue. The issue is after fixing the second one (rear arm) I had it on the setup station and was checking everything. Decided to toss the toe gauge on the rear and noticed that the left was at 2 degrees in, and the right side was at 4 degrees in. I have the box toe blocks 3.0 in the rear and 0 in the front. So I should have 3.0 in on both sides. I did loosen the screws holding the toe blocks and got it to 2.5L and 3.5R I haven't had time to mess with it since but will have time this coming weekend.
I did replace the hinge pin as it was slightly bent. It seemed to bind as I rotated it in the new arm at a certain spot. Could I have bent the toe blocks?
) crashes. Both times I clipped the outside PVC pipe joint (where the PVC pipe slips together) and it ripped an arm off both times. First time it was the front arm. Second time it was the rear arm. I'm not surprised it broke an arm at all with how fast I was going when I clipped it. Thats not the issue. The issue is after fixing the second one (rear arm) I had it on the setup station and was checking everything. Decided to toss the toe gauge on the rear and noticed that the left was at 2 degrees in, and the right side was at 4 degrees in. I have the box toe blocks 3.0 in the rear and 0 in the front. So I should have 3.0 in on both sides. I did loosen the screws holding the toe blocks and got it to 2.5L and 3.5R I haven't had time to mess with it since but will have time this coming weekend. I did replace the hinge pin as it was slightly bent. It seemed to bind as I rotated it in the new arm at a certain spot. Could I have bent the toe blocks?
It seems like the front and rear blocks might not be aligned due to the left side being +1 degree and the right -1 (ie -2 and -4) degree relative to the expected -3 left and right. (Sounds like the LHS of the car was impacted). Failing that, I suppose its also worth checking that the hub and hub carrier are not also damaged. Not sure if you observed the toe while the wheel rotates? Curious to know what the answer is, please keep us posted.
11-28-2012, 11:27 AM
#765
Odin, if all of your hubs are ok. Try and loosen the srews on your rear toe blocks and possibly the front center blocks. Then try and reseat everything. I had this issue with buliding a brand new car and this seem to help. Keep us posted on your findings.