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Old 03-02-2012, 11:00 AM   #1
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Default Getting into on road!

choice of cars for a newbie:
1. 2010 xray t3
2. tamiya 416x
3. Schumacher mi4lp or mi4cx

Let me know the pros and cons and which would you suggest..

running a 13,5 and a 10.5 motor
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:24 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
choice of cars for a newbie:
1. 2010 xray t3
2. tamiya 416x
3. Schumacher mi4lp or mi4cx

Let me know the pros and cons and which would you suggest..

running a 13,5 and a 10.5 motor
Please make sure the car you choose has a lot of local support and easy parts availability. This will make your racing season much more fun.

Art
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:29 AM   #3
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Please make sure the car you choose has a lot of local support and easy parts availability. This will make your racing season much more fun.

Art
Yeah i have been checking ebay and my hobby store locally i have a few here in south florida... What i need to know is for a beginner which would be best?
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
choice of cars for a newbie:
1. 2010 xray t3
2. tamiya 416x
3. Schumacher mi4lp or mi4cx

Let me know the pros and cons and which would you suggest..

running a 13,5 and a 10.5 motor
Hi, Tamiya 416X would be first choice though pricey. 2nd choice would be the X-Ray T3 2011 and last would be the Schumacher due to weak parts
availability. Regards
Norman2
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:00 PM   #5
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Hi, Tamiya 416X would be first choice though pricey. 2nd choice would be the X-Ray T3 2011 and last would be the Schumacher due to weak parts
availability. Regards
Norman2
Thanks kinda stuff i need!

So would a T3 2010 for around $200 be to pricey?
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:20 PM   #6
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Unless you are a really good driver you might want to stay away from the Tamiya. They are really fragile. One of the top drivers at my local track tried one for a bit and even he was breaking c-hubs like crazy. They great cars just fragile.
So if you don't think your driving skills are top notch then you might want to go with Xray, as they can take a shot and still be in one piece. I know from experience.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:25 PM   #7
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Unless you are a really good driver you might want to stay away from the Tamiya. They are really fragile. One of the top drivers at my local track tried one for a bit and even he was breaking c-hubs like crazy. They great cars just fragile.
So if you don't think your driving skills are top notch then you might want to go with Xray, as they can take a shot and still be in one piece. I know from experience.
thanks for the heads up!
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:50 PM   #8
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Associated and the Top cars are both missing....tc6 replacement parts are v ery affordable, photon is extreeeeemly durable......with the tc6 being one of the most popular ..setups, parts and expertise will certainly be plentiful.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:45 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
Thanks kinda stuff i need!

So would a T3 2010 for around $200 be to pricey?
Eh, not too bad, they are worth the money. Durability is good, and parts if you end up needing them are usually easy enough to find. I had the T1 and it was bullet proof. Newer models have not seemed to suffer much, I rarely see guys breaking them locally...
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:52 PM   #10
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Unless you are a really good driver you might want to stay away from the Tamiya. They are really fragile. One of the top drivers at my local track tried one for a bit and even he was breaking c-hubs like crazy. They great cars just fragile.
So if you don't think your driving skills are top notch then you might want to go with Xray, as they can take a shot and still be in one piece. I know from experience.
Tamiyas are popular at out track because they are the most durable. In 12 months I have only had to replace one set of drive shaft blades, and replace one c hub. I would consider the 416 or the t3. X-rays are also good cars, not quite as durable as the tamiya's but these 2 brands seem to be quite a lot better than most of the others.

Serpents are nice, but in the uk parts are sooo hard to get everyone moved onto other makes instead of getting a 411.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:44 PM   #11
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It's kind of funny how observations on durability for particular cars can vary so much. I mean, I have seen Photons break more than anything else, yet for others they are bullet proof. I don't run one, it's just what I have noticed. Some people say Associated is strong while others report nothing but bent parts and things breaking.

Hit your local track and see what "the car" is, the one that has the best feedback from the racers. At least that is what I would try.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:54 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
It's kind of funny how observations on durability for particular cars can vary so much. I mean, I have seen Photons break more than anything else, yet for others they are bullet proof. I don't run one, it's just what I have noticed. Some people say Associated is strong while others report nothing but bent parts and things breaking.

Hit your local track and see what "the car" is, the one that has the best feedback from the racers. At least that is what I would try.

I know that i have very little breakage on my photon because i have learned how to bullet proof it. I would imagine that any new car will be fragile until the owners do the same. For instance i heard of others breaking a-arms, so i installed pro-line plastic bumber under the stock foam. i also heard people have pulled screws out of the bulkheads so i use 18 & 16 mm screws. Alloy hubs and bell cranks help. so the only thing that gets hurt is my pride from lack of talent....but i will keep at it
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:12 PM   #13
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It's really interesting to see how different people's perceptions of durability are. Must depend on which drivers have which brands and if they have beefed them up at all. Luck is probably a large factor as well.

I'm sure most cars can be beefed up for improved durability. One of my old Photons could take serious hits and at most might bend a suspension mount screw, but I changed out a lot of parts to get it that way. Parma hard bumper, steel cvds, alloy knuckles and rear hub carriers, fully alloy bellcrank, etc. etc.

Just from my personal observations, a box stock Tamiya is far less durable than a box stock XRAY. I can't count the number of broken Tamiya C-hubs and bent suspension blocks I've seen from pretty soft hits.

There's 2 or 3 guys I know with xrays who manage to break them fairly often, but the abuse they put them through is a bit ridiculous. I've seen them drive full speed into a solid wall several times.

I now have two xray T3'12s and the main thing I notice is that they seem to take a much harder hit than my photons would before tweaking. The only real breakage I've had so far (other than ECS damage)was from a board sticking out just enough to grab a tire. That would have broken ANY car. It usually just bounces off a board and keeps driving like nothing happened. I've been amazed several times. At one of the local tracks there are these high speed chicanes that are downright nasty if you get them wrong. I think everyone that races there, including some heavily sponsored guys(especially them), have all sent our cars cartwheeling into the pits at least once. Great durability tester
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:42 PM   #14
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For Newbie, Sakura Zero S, 3 Racing. Enough Said.
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