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Old 01-17-2005, 03:32 PM   #1
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Default CRC T-Fource HELP

I just finished building my new T-Fource and noticed that the forward motor tab hits the left tweek screw plate. I removed a lot of material from the motor tab but if you compress the shock while twisting, it still hits and limits the pod movement,
I called John at CRC and he said that they have not had any problems.
Any solutions beside cuting the tweek spring ears off and tweeking off the T Plate?
Thanks
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:37 PM   #2
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that's exactly what I do... I don't like springs anyways so I just dremel off the piece for the spring setup.

The other option is to run a smaller spur... 96 or 90... Of course you want the biggest spur gear possible though...
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:50 PM   #3
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I tried a 96 tooth gear....same problem. I don't like going smaller than that.
Thanks
Dave
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:24 PM   #4
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the only time the motor will hit the tweek spring bump is under full compression and that never will never happen during a race i hae run this car ever since it was a 6 pack and i never had a problem with it so dont worry about it
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:35 PM   #5
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Hi Guys,

Whats the minimum and max ride height you can use on the t-fource. I am asking since our track (asphalt) is slightly on the bumpy side, and I wanted to know if its a suitable 1/12 car to run. We run our touring cars at 5mm without any problems.

Bye for now.
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Old 01-17-2005, 07:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by smyka
the only time the motor will hit the tweek spring bump is under full compression and that never will never happen during a race i hae run this car ever since it was a 6 pack and i never had a problem with it so dont worry about it
Mark...Congrats on another Cleveland win!

Are you saying that the car never leans over far enough for the motor tab to hit the tweek brace?
Do you leave the tweek brace unmodified, even though you use the T plate tweek?
I wanted to try both.

Thanks for all your help last year with my Reflex 12
Dave
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Old 01-17-2005, 07:48 PM   #7
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I'll have to post pictures of my tfource but I cut them off on my 6pack and I use the same cross bar on my tfource. see a pictures of it here
http://www.nashrcracer.com/fortheloveof12scale.htm
bottom picture
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Old 01-17-2005, 09:53 PM   #8
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I use the springs to tweak the car and have no problems with the tab. Just use the forward screw on the top of the motor and the rearward screw on the bottom. Then just rotate the motor back so the tabs are clear. No filing needed, no clearance issues with a 98 spur.
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Old 01-17-2005, 10:17 PM   #9
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I had the same problem, I swear it actually iht during a race, because it felt really tweeked. I had the brush hood heatsink on a Reedy 19T hitting the crossbrace, I just swapped the heatsink for a screw. Solved the problem.
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Old 01-18-2005, 12:03 PM   #10
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Default T-Fource

Thanks for all the great information!

Can you share some set-ups for a medium bite track. 90x45 with CRC ozite ( 4 year old).

Who has tried both tweeking types and which was your choice.

Bodies?

Tire brand and rubber?

Thanks
Dave
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Old 01-18-2005, 12:57 PM   #11
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the only time i ever hit the tweek bump was when i played around outside with a six pack three years ago in mod i ran the car at 5mm ride hieght and threw her into a 180 full speed the car was leanning over really hard and it hit a bump but that was the only time if you look at you car run it about 3.25 mm off the groung then push down on the side of the chassie the bump is no even close to the motor tab (except epic basied motors i cut the motor tab at a 45 degree angle with a dremil they are too big but they still dont hit just the wire might)

set up i believe frank posted both mine and eli's cleveland set up i would start eith one of those and twealk it until you like the way the car drives
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:22 PM   #12
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Here is the basic setup I run pretty much everywhere.....

Thick t-bar (no springs)
silver center spring (30-35 wt oil)
all 3 screws in t-bar
light -medium hydra in tubes
3mm height

max caster
-.5/-1 camber
20 springs for mod/18 occasionally in stock
trinity red stuff on kingpins
0 toe in/out
3 - 3.5mm height

batteries all the way back

double pink front

mod pink rear
stock white rear

Mike
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:36 PM   #13
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mcmoney....

Does having that much caster in the car keep the car from entering the corner as fast???

I always thought more caster = more straight line stability and better high speed cornering, less initial steering into the corner???

Less caster = less straight line, less high speed, but better initial steering into the corner???

I assume the .5 and 1 degree (neg.) camber is just enough to make the tires wear flat at the with the 6 deg of caster.

Also... do you use the 10 deg blocks up front?

Thanks,

Michael
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:28 PM   #14
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I generally add the max castor to smooth the car out (making it easier to drive)....Plus it allows you to get on the gas earlier and stay on it longer exiting the turn.....If you need more turn in either add more front traction or add some toe out in the front...

yeah I run the blocks with the most reactive castor...I believe they are 10s.....
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