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Old 01-21-2005, 03:00 PM   #31
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I believe the problem is in the Speed controll. You have stated that you had the problem with numerous motors so spring tension to me isnt it. I would guess that you are running way to hot of a drive freq. If you cant change the drive freq try one of two things...switch speed controlls for testing....or put the motor in a friends car and let him rip it up. Try this and see.
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Old 01-21-2005, 03:29 PM   #32
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Set your esc for a drive frequency of at least 8 khz, maybe more. Even with a 19 turn I was burning up comms and brushes with anything less.
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Old 01-21-2005, 04:54 PM   #33
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thanks for the tips.

racing is tomorrow, I'll let ya's know how I go. Will be testing with my novak GT7
Losi, JR Propo ,Spektrum, Novarossi, AT Racing Fuels
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Old 01-21-2005, 07:32 PM   #34
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Try running a different speedo....just to eliminate it.....

Please keep in mind, that as brushes wear, the spring tension will CHANGE. You really need to get a fiddlestick to properly measure spring tension right on the motor. It's very critical that it is correct, especially on modifieds....

In sedan, a V2 based motor should never really use anything less than a medium/hard.....most of the time we run hard/hard or hard/medium/hard....and Orion has even made stiffer springs.

On a Reedy motor....I would never go below a trinity red at all......and its usually much stiffer than that, like purple/purple, or silver/purple....

But again, these are just ball parks, you really need a way to measure spring tension, and currently the fiddlestick is the only thing out there to do it right on the motor (yes, I know trinity has one coming out soon).

The other thing to closely look at is the ROUNDNESS of the comm. A pretty shiny cut is nice, but in the end, a ROUND cut is what you want. Brush bounce will burn a comm up in a heartbeat....

You might try mineral spirits to clean the comms....its a lot more friendly to the copper...though I rarely use anything other than an exact to clean out the slots....my lathe gets it cut clean!

Lastly, I've come up with a better way to break in the V2 motors....and it really works on any mod. Oscar Jansen was so impressed with how my brushes look on my V2 based mods at cleveland, he has started using the method.

First, set the motor at zero degrees timing (its ok if yer at 1-2...)...break the motor in at 2 volts for 7 minutes.....check the brushes...

If they look good, give it another 15 seconds to reseat. Now turn the timing up to your race timing, and hit it for 30 seconds or so...you will hear the brushes seat.....now, turn the voltage up to 5 volts and hit them 15-30 seconds...

I dunno why, but it works amazing. The brushes seat great and work great. Please keep in mind, this is for the V2 motor with Sprint brushes....Enduros take longer, usually 10 minutes on the first part. Other motors are similar times, but its dependent on the brush.

Later EddieO
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:27 AM   #35
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I changed speedys today to my GT7 for our first ever carpet race meet with great success. Ran 6 races on the 9x2 geared at 8.1:1 with little burn on the comm and no burn on the brushes. Very pleased with this and made runtime with about 60seconds left after each race.
Thanks for everyones help!!!

Losi, JR Propo ,Spektrum, Novarossi, AT Racing Fuels
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