Originally Posted by liljohn1064

This is not a GT, but actually designed for LM-1 so a bit stretched.

Originally Posted by pphaneuf

Even older school than my Porsche 962!

But very cool. Not sure if the rear would work for our class, though, the rules require a split wing. There's no big side dams (like that new Mon-Tech MF-10), but it's integrated...

I'd really like something from just before when the dorsal fins were introduced, like the Lola-Aston Martin B09/60, properly designed for racing use.

Originally Posted by dumper

Ok, here is what is needed for converting a CRC WGT car to F1 tires:

Front End:

1535 - F1 Steel Stub Axle (Assuming you already have the steering block for the 1/8th" axles)

1549 - 5x10 unflanged bearings (ours or anybody else's work work)

1529 - 5mm Plastic Spacer F1 Front axle (you need some shims for the front axles due to the offset of the front wheels. These are nothing special, just thicker to use a lower number of shims. So again, whether it is ours or not, you will need some shims to take up some space)

1499 - M4 Locknut (We use non flanged locknuts in the front. Once again ours or not, does not matter but has to be M4 unflanged)



Rear End:

1528 - Graphite Axle w/4mm Stud

1533 - F1 Left Clamp Hub

1376 - 4-40 x 3/8" Steel Cap Head Screw (These are the same ones that are in the Left clamp hub you are replacing, so you can use those)

1525 - F1 Diff Hub

1499 - M4 Locknut (You have to use a M4 unflanged locknut on the diff)

1526 - F1 Pin Drive Cap (This includes the cap, pin, and set screw. You must use a .035 wrench to tighten the set screw, same as the damper tubes)

1499 & 1532 - M4 Locknut and #8 Washer F1 Rear Wheel (We use a M4 locknut and a washer to hold the rear wheels on. If you can find a M4 flanged locknut, that will replace these parts.

You will need some 1/4" ID shims for the rear axle to get the rear axle to the desired width. Make sure to check Left and Right to make sure the spacing is the same on the rear axle.

The diff itself assembles exactly the same, just replace the axle, left hub, diff hub and diff nut. Add the pin drive cup, pin and set screw and it is done. When assembling, do not put the pin and set screw in until you are happy with the diff setting. You can just slide the right rear tire on without the cup, pin and set screw to check the diff tightness. Once happy with that, then add the cup, pin and set screw.

Now, do to the large size of the F1 tires, you will have to adjust the ride height accordingly. In the front, you will have to use 5mm front blocks, and some #4262 shims. How many depends on what tires you decide to use. For the rear, things get as little more complicated. With the stock slider pod on the SE and F1 tires, the rear ride height ends up being around 6mm. You may be able to lower it a little by doing some grinding on the back of the pod plates so the sliders can move a little more. You may be able to gain .5mm or so doing this.

Another option is getting #3440 F1 Motor Plate and #3442 F1 Left Side Pod Plate. You can use the #33411 Slider Bearing Carriers you already have from the SE. Using the stock SE bottom plate put the screw in the front hole of each pod plate. Once you have done this, you will see that the rear holes do not line up. Using the rear hole as a guide, you will need to drill and tap a hole in the pod plates so it lines up with the rear hole on the bottom plate. This is what we did on the oval car that Old Dude was talking about. As of right now, we do not make a bottom plate that takes the F1 pod plates (other than the F1 bottom plate, but it does not fit the SE or the oval car for that matter) If there is enough interest in the future, we can make a bottom plate to make this step easier. There is enough meat on the pod plates to drill and tap a new hole if you want to go this route, but it is more advanced work.

Wheels and Tires:

Right now, the TCS tires #TAM1031 and #TAM1032 are the most popular tires at the F1 races. You will need #TAM51378 (black) or #TAM54400 (chrome-ish) rims to mount these. Pit Shimizu tires are also popular, you would use the same rims. Tuning Haus rims also work, but have a slightly different offset, just need a little different shimming, but come in more colors.

Originally Posted by dumper

The WTF1 and the Gen X 10 SE do not share that many parts. By the time you get them all you will be very near or over the cost of a new WGT car.

Originally Posted by chris moore

Of the current availible WGT bodies which gives the most downforce? I'm on a low grip track and need all the help I can get.

Thanks

Originally Posted by 1967rs

I just picked up a used Xray X10, I painted up a body and put it on the track for the first time last night. Overall the car handled good and is fun to drive, I did have a few more traction rolls that I like. I am running BSR spec tires and they are not trued down, is truing down the tires to reduce the ride height the best way to get rid if the traction rolls?

Originally Posted by old_dude

Of the legal bodies , try the Protoform Gianna.

Originally Posted by pphaneuf

The X10 shares the rear pod bulkheads with the X12, which makes it pretty hard to use big tires with a reasonably low ride height...

I run mine with the rear tires trued to 55mm, front to 54mm, no problem with traction roll.

Originally Posted by bdmpastx

On the X10, I put some shims on the front arm mounts. Not on the arms themselves but the plate that bolts to the chassis. I also dremel'd the brace to clear the bumper. That gets me to the minimum 4mm ride height. The rear pod has plenty of adjustment to get it down to 4mm. I run about a 52mm tire.