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Old 10-27-2006, 11:58 PM   #61
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dos anyone remember Reedy in a can. drops do do somthing if you do it right,mod and 19t you dont need it but stock yes.it dos muk up things in the motor faster,you got to clean the motor every run.
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Old 10-28-2006, 07:30 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE
comm drops are good for the motors if you use the right thing. EDM fluid...thats what you need. Good for heat, wear, and conductivity
Are you serious about this? I setup and run edm all day at work. Your saying the dielectric fluid is and can be used for comm drops? I may have to try it to see what it does.
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:43 PM   #63
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Default WD40 as comm drop

Hi,

Is WD40 good as a comm drop?

Thanks.

Joel
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Old 10-12-2007, 07:45 PM   #64
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Default com drops

the thing about com drops is you need to spray the motor out after ever run so it does not gum up. So you will use quite a bit of motor spray. Don't use carburator cleaner, it is too harsh. Liquid wrench has graphite in it and works pretty good. You can also use keroseen or diesel fuel.

I went to brushless over a year ago so i can give away my secrets.
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Old 10-13-2007, 01:45 AM   #65
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Hi,

Is WD40 good as a comm drop?

Thanks.

Joel
No! it will just burn up the commutator.
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Old 10-13-2007, 04:12 AM   #66
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Use lamp oil or a combination of lamp oil and kerosine and add what ever color you want too.But then you can go Brushless and not need any of that stuff.Me to over a year ago.
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Old 10-17-2007, 12:03 AM   #67
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The funny thing about comm drops is though some might not make a difference on the dyno several of them can produce big advantages on the race track. In all honesty I recommend borrowing some drops from others at the track and trying a few different products out and judge the performance for yourself.

When we started out trying to formulate a product we honestly though it would be easy, that notion couldn't be farther from the truth! Shawn (the motor man) had no less than 6 formulas that all provided great increases on the dyno, every one of these proved to reduce overall performance throughout the run. It literally took Shawn a year to develop a product we were willing put our name on. All said and done, the product we are selling now provides it's benefit deeper into the run, with lap times to back it up and our motors come off the track and dyno higher.

In short, test-test-test and let the track be your judge!

Nick
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:02 AM   #68
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The funny thing about comm drops is though some might not make a difference on the dyno several of them can produce big advantages on the race track. In all honesty I recommend borrowing some drops from others at the track and trying a few different products out and judge the performance for yourself.

When we started out trying to formulate a product we honestly though it would be easy, that notion couldn't be farther from the truth! Shawn (the motor man) had no less than 6 formulas that all provided great increases on the dyno, every one of these proved to reduce overall performance throughout the run. It literally took Shawn a year to develop a product we were willing put our name on. All said and done, the product we are selling now provides it's benefit deeper into the run, with lap times to back it up and our motors come off the track and dyno higher.

In short, test-test-test and let the track be your judge!

Nick
Do you have any data on how it ran, like rpm gained, torque delivered, dyno curves, or even just lap time differences, since you mentioned you saw different numbers on dyno and track? Just wondering how much of a difference you saw so I can decide if it's worth the price to me.
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:19 AM   #69
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Do you have any data on how it ran, like rpm gained, torque delivered, dyno curves, or even just lap time differences, since you mentioned you saw different numbers on dyno and track? Just wondering how much of a difference you saw so I can decide if it's worth the price to me.
When Shawn was wrapping things up testing wise we talked about posting dyno charts and lap times all over the web and eventually decided against it. All of the test motors we had saw different gains under different conditions making it difficult to provide numbers that carry any merit. That's really not our style of marketing.

What we do routinely say and will stand behind is the fact that motors will finish stronger every single time on our drops. We aren't just touting stronger finishes than our competitor's fluids gumming up but stronger finishes period.

I guess you could say the proof is in the pudding, since we have started using the new drops we have won our 2nd National Championship, filled half the Reedy Race A-Main and took a win in Vegas. The product has without a doubt proven itself on the track.

Nick
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Old 10-17-2007, 01:46 PM   #70
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Reedy in a spray can was TV tuner cleaner you could buy at Radio Shack.
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Old 10-17-2007, 01:48 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Team Kwik View Post
When Shawn was wrapping things up testing wise we talked about posting dyno charts and lap times all over the web and eventually decided against it. All of the test motors we had saw different gains under different conditions making it difficult to provide numbers that carry any merit. That's really not our style of marketing.

What we do routinely say and will stand behind is the fact that motors will finish stronger every single time on our drops. We aren't just touting stronger finishes than our competitor's fluids gumming up but stronger finishes period.

I guess you could say the proof is in the pudding, since we have started using the new drops we have won our 2nd National Championship, filled half the Reedy Race A-Main and took a win in Vegas. The product has without a doubt proven itself on the track.

Nick
What is your process for using your comm drops for both break-in and during an actual run?
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:31 PM   #72
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:31 PM   #73
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What is your process for using your comm drops for both break-in and during an actual run?
Don't break in with drops. Break in a fresh cut re-brushed motor at 2 volts (stock) or 1 volt (19 turn) for about 2 - 5 minutes, spray out without removing the brushes, re-lube the bushings/bearings and put a drop of firewater on the comm, and one down each brush hood. Motor is ready to run.

My comparison with K19 motor with 4499s: without firewater, no serrations after a run, comm was slightly dis-colored, and there was noticeable charring on trailing edges. With firewater, serrations were still present and the comm had little to no charring on trailing edges.

YMMV
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:34 PM   #74
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You DON'T Need any sort of drops.... And don't listen to whoever told you that ever again....
not true comm drops are very useful in stock and 19 turn your probably not going fast yet so maybe try some
weavernator out
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:19 PM   #75
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Don't break in with drops. Break in a fresh cut re-brushed motor at 2 volts (stock) or 1 volt (19 turn) for about 2 - 5 minutes, spray out without removing the brushes, re-lube the bushings/bearings and put a drop of firewater on the comm, and one down each brush hood. Motor is ready to run.

My comparison with K19 motor with 4499s: without firewater, no serrations after a run, comm was slightly dis-colored, and there was noticeable charring on trailing edges. With firewater, serrations were still present and the comm had little to no charring on trailing edges.

YMMV
Timmy pretty much hit the nail on the head. We have never been a fan of breaking in with drops but we do include some brief instructions with every bottle of fluid for those who would like to try it.

The experience Timmy talks about above is pretty much exactly what this product was designed to do. They not only lubricate the brush/comm contact point to reduce wear but help prevent the burning and tarnishing that occurs throughout the run. This burning/glazing effect is the primary reason motors fall off in the last minute, in 19t Timmy is seeing a very obvious benefit due to the more extreme conditions.

Nick
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