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Old 02-13-2012, 06:38 AM   #1
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Default RJ Speed Legends

we're trying to start a legends on road class at rcrnv (large smooth parking lot track located in northern va)...we have zero experience with legends but like that its supposed to be a cheap and fair class, and also like the no bearings rule, so we're buying them today

we have some questions for anyone who can help us:

1. any idea about tire wear?
2. do the tires need truing (no camber settings) for onroad?
3. is there a difference in the coupe vs. the sedan body for an onroad course?
4. are there rubber tires for legends?
5. any tips and tricks to improve handling?
6. any esc we should bann?
7. best suggested cheap spec esc? 1s capability?
8. best suggested cheap 1s lipo?
9. any defects or weak spots on these legends?
10. anything else?

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Old 02-13-2012, 06:59 AM   #2
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no rubber tires that i know of, pavement will eat the foams fast.
i'm sure you could find rubber tc tires that will work, but the rears will be tough to source, they are very wide.

we run them on a carpeted tri-oval, no truing but we do rotate often.

we use rtr spec brushed esc's and silver can 540's(actually hand outs with pinion), 6 cell nimh.
the cars were desinged for 4 cell, so a 1s and 17.5 bl would fit and work great, but thats not in the spirit of the "cheap spec class".

bodies make no difference.

tip: leave the chassis support screws a little loose to prevent tweak and increase chassis flex.

we do run bearings.

all in all it's a great class to get into, cheap and tons of fun.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:50 AM   #3
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Default Establishing a Legends Class

I will answer your questions the best I can by number.
1. Foam tires wear on asphalt. Regulating what tires you can use is a real issue. Green tires for the rear and Blue for the front used to be the norm. Now that BSR doesn't make green or blue ones anymore they are pretty much replaced with white for the rear and left front and black for the right front. Since BSR tires are getting kinda expensive we have been experimenting with stating what durometer for the rear and front tires can be, such as 30-35 for the rear and 30 - 65 for the front.
2. Truing tires would probably help a little but we usually just rotate them from right to left.
3. Body difference affecting handling is minimal.
4. No. Not much of a impact if any that you can see. The guy that drives the best and can set up his car the best are the controlling issues in this class
5. Yes, Many - It is like a puzzle. Leaving some screws on cross braces tight and other ones loose creates all kind of dynamics in the car because this ends up being your suspension adjustments. Some things work for some drivers because of thier drive style and setup and this same setup don't work for other guys because of thier driving style. Have fun with this one!!!!! It's fun to discuss this issue with fellow racers because no one will agree on what the best setup is.
6. No
7. No
8. We use 6 cell NICDs, 1800 MAH, Onyx battery packs (factory sealed) $13 a pack. This eliminates the battery war.
9. Overall not much breaks and the parts aren't that expensive. The bumper breaks but it really protects the body. Side body posts break once in a while. Steering blocks break or the axle pin pulls out of the steering block. Wheels fall off once in a while and you will loose a couple bushings because the front axle could be a little longer. I found out the best way to eliminate this problem is to put a locknut on backward. It is hard to get the locking device threated at first but once it is threaded it holds the wheel on with no problem.
10. Overall it is a great class and the least expensive of any class I have raced in and just as much fun because it is mostly about driving and not how expensive your car is. We use the Photon Speed 2 motor. You can't tamper with this motor so this makes the class more even too.
Good Luck !!!!
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:30 PM   #4
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Well read the directions for the old school set-up with the brushed motor and a 4 cell pack. Ya'll are right about BSR making the tires for this car. There are no more Blue and Greens. Whites are similar to greens for the rear. The foam tires will last just rotate them especially if your racing oval. Unless the asphalt is really rough your not going to wear out a pair of tires in a weekends race.If your running with the brushed motors ask around for some of the older bushed ESC. I use a Novak Cyclone or 410HC.
If your loosing the front axles -put a washer in front of the C-clip against the steering arm.
Now if you want to go modern we are running (Fla) 21.5 and 1's and any esc in blinky mode 35x81 gear ball bearing and turnbuckle linkage.
Novak just released a new comb 25.5 and esc (Non adjustable I believe). then you would need to come up with a pinion and everyone use that size!
Also body wise at the snowbirds this year I was the only one to use a Coupe-everyone else used a sedan.I TQ'ed and won Oval and 3rd in road course.
RJ has just released the LTO Nascar so you can take everything out of the Legends and use it in this car.
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:35 AM   #5
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Theres a rule not allowing the servo to be mounted ontop of the battery tray....whats the reason for ths rule? We are running 6 cell packs so that spot is ideal but against the rule??...
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:37 AM   #6
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During summer we run at the midwest tr-clone in west bend, wi.
(1) On our asphalt tri-oval, some of the guys are getting 2 seasons out of their capped tires.
(2) Most run their tires right as they come, no truing.
(3) Maybe, some say on the tri-oval, a longer body like the sedan or original bolink bodies give more downforce and make the car more stable in corners because the extra body acts a a spoiler/wing of sorts.
(4) BSR makes capped & foam tires, we are using their capped ones for the asphalt and foam for the carpet during winter.
(5) If running oval change front springs, get away from the Legends kit springs (too soft), get 1/10th pan car springs (associated, others). To help with grip, myself and other racers at my club use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner to clean off the tires after each round. The trick here is to apply it about 5-10 minutes before your going to run, then heat the tires with a heat gun or hair dryer until they become tacky.
(6) Our club, along with most, bans reverse, but allows other ESCs. We run 27-turn handout motors and use a random draw system to prevent the same driver from having same motor all the time.
(7) Check Tower Hobbies out. I have a Duratrax ESC. I would put a price cap on the ESC, as the Legends class is more about learning to drive the car than who can spend the most and go the fastest.
(8) The Legends class in my club runs 4 cell NiMh. I have two Ener-G 4600 stick packs from Pro Match Racing (http://www.promatchracing.com/index.php) that I run. I know of one other driver that runs these as well. I like them, can get about 10 minutes of racing out of a pack. I see they also sell LiPos.
(9) For weak spots, the kingpins, I've snapped a couple this summer already with hard crashes. The front axles sometimes pull out of the steering blocks. If your servo is head on with servo tape only, if you have a hard crash it may move, zip ties and securing the steering servo so it cannot move are key. If using a standard servo and having problems with servo saver popping off, a 4-40 screw about 1.25 - 1.5 inches secures that better than the short servo saver screws that come with the servo savers.
All in all, these are pretty tough little cars and can take a beating before breaking. For example, I got sideswipped into the wall at full throttle, tumbled end over end down the straight, and all I broke was a kingpin. Made the next round and finished 2nd in the A main that day.
(10) Anything else: Run a graphite axle and aluminum hubs. I have a set from IRR Gang Racing. It has a graphite axle, clamping hub, and aluminum diff hub; this setup elmininates the use of the thrust bearing and makes the car lighter. Run bearings in the rear axles and front wheels. Boca Bearing sells an inexpensive, but excellent bearing kit for the Legend car, can be found on eBay or their website. Duratrax bearings work well too. Another thing, take each chassis spacer and loosen it until it is able to spin freely; this helps act as suspension and the chassis can flex a bit in the corners and over bumps, where a rigid chassis cannot; this was a tip that I got from the top Legend driver in my club when I first started. Tower Hobbies sells parts for the Legends at pretty reasonable prices, most get their equipment from there. A couple of last things, if not running 2.4 ghz, start, much better than FM (IMO), plus the chances of having frequency conflicts is virtually eliminated with 2.4 ghz. AND if you have the ablility, run personal transponders in your cars, scoring is much easier.

If you have any other questions, just ask.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:02 PM   #7
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which aftermarket rear diff do yall use? i was thinking the rc4less but do i use the narrow rear hub?
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:46 AM   #8
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We run Legends on asphalt with CRC rubber tires , very successfully.

It is a road course set up on the backstretch of a mostly retired .33 mile banked oval.

There are a few videos on JMW Motorsports Facebook page.

We run the Duratrax Photon Speed2 motor , geared 21pinion and 81 spur. Most of us run the sedan body. We use any 1S battery , some bad luck with the SMC spec packs.

Most of us run every week, 15 minute run times and no broken parts in many weeks.
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:13 PM   #9
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Why do you need a aftermarket diff. The RJ Speed diff works fine. The only thing you would need is something I had made to polish the diff rings with a low speed drill. I've been running the stock Legends diffs since the cars came out in 1995, with no problems.
Team Epic/Trinity -Michael Bruce Hobbies-Team CRC ,Kimbrough Products and GForce.
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