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Old 03-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #121
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Nice move
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:48 AM   #122
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Has anybody been contacted by rsector yet to correct the tolerance issue....and if so what are they doing for u?
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:33 PM   #123
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i got a email last night telling me that they would be sending a shim kit direct from their asian distributor....that's good to hear.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:12 PM   #124
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they have been really good, emailed me and asked for some details about the part and then got another email telling me they are sending out some shims. Pretty happy with the customer service
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:09 PM   #125
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Ya they emailed me for my address today so i think there shipping me some too ......gotta say nothing like good customer service ....keep it up rsector
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:18 PM   #126
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I just got done "racing" at the carpet nats. With Pit tires, this conversion makes the car wider than 190mm. Not a problem for club racing but a BIG problem at a national race. It really sucks to have ur car setup and then have to remove this kit and go back to 180mm when there is almost no practice to tune the car with the huge change. I gotta say... between the clearance issue and now the width issue I really can"t recommend this one.
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:29 PM   #127
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I just got done "racing" at the carpet nats. With Pit tires, this conversion makes the car wider than 190mm. Not a problem for club racing but a BIG problem at a national race. It really sucks to have ur car setup and then have to remove this kit and go back to 180mm when there is almost no practice to tune the car with the huge change. I gotta say... between the clearance issue and now the width issue I really can"t recommend this one.
We found the same thing, but as a test run, put the wide kit back on and just wheels (no tires) and ran it through ROAR's gauge. It rolled in without a problem -4mm. When you run it through with the tires on, the sticky sidewalls prevent it from moving in the gauge. When you pushed on it, the 'stiction' of the tires cause the F1 to 'creep' up the side of the gauge. ROAR said it had to roll through the gauges to be legal.

For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:23 PM   #128
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We found the same thing, but as a test run, put the wide kit back on and just wheels (no tires) and ran it through ROAR's gauge. It rolled in without a problem -4mm. When you run it through with the tires on, the sticky sidewalls prevent it from moving in the gauge. When you pushed on it, the 'stiction' of the tires cause the F1 to 'creep' up the side of the gauge. ROAR said it had to roll through the gauges to be legal.

For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
Thats good thinking there TPhalen and so f1, way to engineer around the problems!
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:56 PM   #129
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I should have brought some PAM. Half a sidewall, it was close. Regardless, the kit is going back on.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:13 PM   #130
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We want to congratulate Tony and Mike for the excellent performance at the Nats.




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I should have brought some PAM. Half a sidewall, it was close. Regardless, the kit is going back on.
Yes, it was paper thin close!
Thank you for the support, I think most of the racers with our kit on went faster!

On a side note, we would say we are very very close to 190mm, around +-0.5mm max.(anyother combo will be less then 190mm)Mike was able to pass tech with a few adjustments with tamiya foam wheels/pit combo.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:09 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TPhalen View Post
We found the same thing, but as a test run, put the wide kit back on and just wheels (no tires) and ran it through ROAR's gauge. It rolled in without a problem -4mm. When you run it through with the tires on, the sticky sidewalls prevent it from moving in the gauge. When you pushed on it, the 'stiction' of the tires cause the F1 to 'creep' up the side of the gauge. ROAR said it had to roll through the gauges to be legal.

For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
I CA'd the side walls to make them slippery. I still had to go the the lowest camber setting (1deg) and 0 front toe. Without doing that I could not pass tech.
Unfortunetly once that was done the car would not turn and pushed like a school bus. Taking the kit off, spacing the front and rear Tamiya parts and returning the front to 2degs camber and 1 deg toe out made the car handle better than it did with the RSector kit and mild front end setup. It took a full second off my lap times.
That being said, for the price of a few spacers and shims (much less than the $50 for the RSector kit) you car can handle better than the RSector kit and still be within the rules.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:50 PM   #132
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i ran the widening kit with 2.5 front camber and it fit in their standard guage. like Tony said, the stickyness of the sidewalls would make the car climb out of the guage. with the decals on the tires, the car rolled thru effortlessly with no other changes. i tried everything i could think of, adjusting toe, camber, new tires, old tires and even rubbing the sidewalls with oil. in the end i removed all shims, front and rear, and applied the decals, that is what worked for me.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:07 PM   #133
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I'm a little pissed off. I ordered my widening kit DIRECTLY from Rsector. Just got it in the mail and there are no shims included like they said they were going to start doing. Mounted it up and sure enough the right rear wheel wobbles.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:59 PM   #134
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appreciate that would be frustrating.....but drop them an email, it was posted on the last couple of pages, and they will make it right for you.

i ran mine last night without the shim kit, and just backing the grub screw all the way out and after a few laps, a couple of excursions into the walls and a good hit on the rear, all held together nicely......know if I could just sort out why the rear doesn't want to turn, that would be great.
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:48 PM   #135
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quick wobble fix if no shims...just apply some double sided tape or electrical tape to rsector hub where it touches diff half and cut off outside extra tape with xacto...works great, no problems.
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