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Old 01-05-2005, 06:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Wow I didn't know that. Our TCS race is indoor asphalt in March. At RCO hobbies in Hanover PA. I TQ'ed and won both TCS races in GT last year with my TB-02. Very cool gar for GT2 and possibly GT1. Some run it and GT3 and do well bet they are little porky. The car will be better yet if when the TB-02R comes out we can use the new chassis and graphite braces.
Do you have a roug guestimate how many hours away from Cleveland that track is? if not-I cannot be lazy and use mapquest

I want to run f1 for sure and then either GT1 or GT2. My TB02 has ALL the parts to make it a Surikarn evoIII too-see I said its a trick car!! So you know the drill-if I make it a GT1 Surikarn-then its ilegal for GT2!! I'll figure it out in a few months.
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:28 PM   #17
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good info here.
so Ray, how about a "Foam Tires for Dummies"


Last edited by NVisible; 01-05-2005 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Do you have a roug guestimate how many hours away from Cleveland that track is? if not-I cannot be lazy and use mapquest

I want to run f1 for sure and then either GT1 or GT2. My TB02 has ALL the parts to make it a Surikarn evoIII too-see I said its a trick car!! So you know the drill-if I make it a GT1 Surikarn-then its ilegal for GT2!! I'll figure it out in a few months.
From Cleveland to Hanover PA is around 7 hours or so. I have a buddy that lives close to Cleveland.

Gt1 you can do alot more stuff to your car but in the other classes it is alot more out of the box and plastic tub cars.
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by NVisible
good info here.
so Ray, how about a "Foam Tires for Dummies"

I am no expert-but ask away!!
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
From Cleveland to Hanover PA is around 7 hours or so. I have a buddy that lives close to Cleveland.

Gt1 you can do alot more stuff to your car but in the other classes it is alot more out of the box and plastic tub cars.
Yes-I plan on running the car as a TB02 for a week and then decide if I want to change it back into a SE with the 3mm chassis. At least I get the luxury of making up my mind on it!!


Back to rubber tires: Are there way to preserve a set of tires-say to get near maximum performance so they last 8 or 9 fast runs? Of course for the qualifiers and Main-new or newer sets will go on.

Also-does putting on a new set of tires dramatically affect the handling of the car-say like making it tippy or loose?
Ray
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:11 PM   #21
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Depends on the tire. Generally old owrn out tires are inconsistant. Generally when I use rubber tires on carpet when they are GREEN they push alot for a few min. But pn carpet rubber tires seem to last a while if the insert/tire combo is correct. when I store them I just put them in a plastic baggy or a small pringles can.

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Old 01-05-2005, 08:25 PM   #22
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Speaking of tires, inserts and rims...

Does anyone choose their parts based on weight, because the weight of the wheels are often neglected even though they play a huge part in rotating mass.

Its no use having a full lightweight titanium/aluminium drivetrain when your wheels are heavy too.

I have personally tried different combinations of the above 3 and found that weight variance can be very significant! Some inserts are almost half the weight of other brands, same goes with rims too (we often do not have as much choice where the tires are concerned).
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:38 PM   #23
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I never really messed with it.... more rotational weight would be nice in my opnion.... more corner speed because your car will roll through corners easier. It's nice on big tracks. I do know that JB inserts are the lightest though.

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Old 01-05-2005, 08:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
I never really messed with it.... more rotational weight would be nice in my opnion.... more corner speed because your car will roll through corners easier. It's nice on big tracks. I do know that JB inserts are the lightest though.

-Korey
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt roll influenced by sprung weight?

Wheels as a whole play a part in 2 major factors in a car, unsprung weight (untunable weight) and rotating mass (can be made more or less).

So having heavier wheels shouldnt make a car roll more right? Since the leaning is done by the chassis held by the suspension, right?

I've found Ride's lightweight series of inserts to be almost feather weight myself, the other inserts I use are Bombers but its not as light as Ride's. Now I'm just looking for durable and lightweight rims.
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Old 01-05-2005, 09:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I am no expert-but ask away!!
Im mostly confused with the sizes. what works best and where? is there drawbacks to using 30mm compared to 26 or 28? Ive also heard of people cutting the foam, whats that do?

thanks!
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Old 01-05-2005, 09:15 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Entropy
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt roll influenced by sprung weight?

Wheels as a whole play a part in 2 major factors in a car, unsprung weight (untunable weight) and rotating mass (can be made more or less).

So having heavier wheels shouldnt make a car roll more right? Since the leaning is done by the chassis held by the suspension, right?


Maybe he means roll as in tires rolling forward around the corner, not roll as in side-to-side body roll.

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Old 01-05-2005, 09:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by rough512
Maybe he means roll as in tires rolling forward around the corner, not roll as in side-to-side body roll.

So if a tire is heavy and the drive train is free. Getting the weight of the wheels to spin should be pretty easy on the motor considering that you are geared right. So once the mass is in rotation... it's harder to stop it. which in turn helps carry the cars speed through a turn. Is this correct?
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Old 01-05-2005, 09:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
So if a tire is heavy and the drive train is free. Getting the weight of the wheels to spin should be pretty easy on the motor considering that you are geared right. So once the mass is in rotation... it's harder to stop it. which in turn helps carry the cars speed through a turn. Is this correct?
If thats the case, I guess it does help, though I prefer less inertia since we will need to accelerate as soon as we clear the corner, the time we spend coasting isnt as much and a lighter drive train will mean we can proberbly enter the corner as fast too.

I'd rather coast on a free drive train than on the momentum of spinning heavier wheels.

Erm, sorry to sound like a nerd :P but momentum p = m x v (mass x velocity), I prefer to work on the "v"
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:09 PM   #29
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More rotating weight is not ideal. I imagine it might make the car easier to drive because small perturbations in the throttle position are smoothed out by the increased mass (poorer throttle response), thus making the car feel a bit smoother. Very low rotating mass will make the car very responsive because there is less mass to accelerate, but this also might feel a bit "twitchier." Ideally, with the proper driving, it will be faster to always have less rotating mass, regardless of whether the track is short and twisty or long and flowing.
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Old 01-05-2005, 11:41 PM   #30
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Entropy-

Yup, thats what I mean. I have a great example too from the worlds. I know the person making the spools for Speedtech r/c. Masami Hirosaka actually ran a speedtech spool at worlds. My friedn had made some lightweight ones and some heavy ones. Masami tried the lightweight ones and said he wanted the heaviver ones. When he used the lightweight ones his car wanted to stop in the middle of the corners. When he switched to the heavy weight ones it allowed the car to carry more speed in the corners, because the drivetrain didn't slow down as quickly or easily.

Now I know most people think, "wouldn't it kill your acceleration?" First off, when you have motors and batteries like we do today, acceleration is not a problem. But I guess it all depends on the track.

-Korey
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