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Old 05-23-2007, 04:49 AM   #256
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thanks for the insight. it always seem as though i have to slow down more than i should to get around the hairpins
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Old 05-23-2007, 05:38 AM   #257
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As above, great explanation


Tyres are your number 1 tuning aid, get the wrong ones on and it wont matter what you do to your setup, you just won't cut it
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Old 05-23-2007, 06:34 AM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
quantum - Simple green is good. It will not dry out the tires. You just want to avoid anything that will strip the oils from the rubber.

aus jd 2703 - I think Acetone would hurt the tires. A rule of thumb I use is if it dries out your skin I dont use it on my tires. I am sure you all have gotten motor spray (its really non-clorinated brake cleaner) on your hands and have seen you skin turn dry and white as it evaporates off you hands. It does the same to your tires...you dont want that.

Thats interesting... Because I totally agree RE not drying the tyre up but reading back in this post i see people using motor spray on their tyres?!?! Thats gonna seriously dry the tyre up!!

Over here in the EU LRP tyres run great and are very popular.

I also see people using foam tyre addative, not sure about this.. you also spray your carpets too though, which we dont do! Most rubber tyre addative is none oil based and foam addative is oil based. We see that if we race on a well condition track thats seen lots of rubber then grip is great however when you try to race on a carpet thats been hammered by foams the carpet becomes soaked with nasty oil based addative and our level of grip isnt so great. So I dont really understand how people are using foam addative and getting a good result
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:10 AM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8800
Over here in the EU LRP tyres run great and are very popular.
Don't agree, they are must tire for LRP chalenge. I don't like them.
I use VTEC on last euro and on LRP challenge, not so great tire if you must buy them. Run OK only for 1-2 runs, then you get a masive performance drop!
Not so with CS or RP-s so I run them and VTEC tires only when I must.
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:16 AM   #260
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a guy looked at me front tires and said they were 'feathering' and its a sign that im overheating the tire....something about 'temperature wear' . he also said it could be a result of the slip angle of tires. i take it that i may be understeering the turning the car too must makin the tires plow through the corner.
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:38 AM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomislav
Don't agree, they are must tire for LRP chalenge. I don't like them.
I use VTEC on last euro and on LRP challenge, not so great tire if you must buy them. Run OK only for 1-2 runs, then you get a masive performance drop!
Not so with CS or RP-s so I run them and VTEC tires only when I must.
The LRP and Orion tires are just pitifully aweful. Sorex, Much More and Take Off are worlds better.
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:19 PM   #262
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When racing at night you say to use Paragon FX2, what is the difference between Paragon's FX2 and their Ground Effects compounds. I know GE is used on carpet mostly but I've used it on high bite indoor asphalt with success but I have never tried FX2 on any surface.
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Old 05-23-2007, 10:51 PM   #263
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Just wondering if anybody has used the Shout cleaner on rubber tires? This will be my first rubber tire season and was looking through the old cabinet on what to use to cook up some traction on the road. Any other household items that work for traction besides WD-40 and Simple Green cleaner....
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:58 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Generally this means you are not transferring weight forward entering corners and/or the weight is not staying forward mid corner and exiting. You can fix this with some comination of the following: softer front springs, lighter front oil, leaning the front shocks in, a softer front sway bar, narrowing the front of your car and lowering the front lower hinge pins.
adrian, following up on your suggestion to narrow the front, what are your thoughts on 'sweeping' the front arms (ie. the front/front block is wider than the front/rear block?) i notice the 415msx comes like this out of the box.
also, if you lower the front hinge pins, isn't that the same as raising the upper link?
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Old 05-28-2007, 03:58 PM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantum
adrian, following up on your suggestion to narrow the front, what are your thoughts on 'sweeping' the front arms (ie. the front/front block is wider than the front/rear block?) i notice the 415msx comes like this out of the box.
also, if you lower the front hinge pins, isn't that the same as raising the upper link?
Arm sweep forward has a similar effect to kickup but without the associated caster change.

Sweeping the arms forward will make you car roll on the front more and keep more weight on the nose mid corner and exiting on power. The Xray guys running mod do this a lot and it works well.

Sweeping the arms back is not done very often any more. It used to be done on the Losi XXXS and Schumancher Mission but it didn't work out to be useful on most tracks.
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Old 05-28-2007, 04:28 PM   #266
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Hi guys need a lil help here.

I have a tc4 rtr with mamba7700
With this much power on mm7700 my tires worn out in couple runs
I mean really worn out I shred one tire hehehe

I'm looking for a wider rims and tires to use on my rtr tc4

We race on a parking lot with some tiny rocks you know how parking lots is

Any ideas what is wider tires and rims I can use? Drop in.

Thanx guys
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Old 05-28-2007, 05:39 PM   #267
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Here in South Africa we are very limited in what tyres are available from the shops. After experimenting with lots of tyres from overseas, I eventually listened to what the local drivers advised = Tamiya B3's

Just completed a 3 hour Day/Night Enduro with the B3's (which had seen 2 race meetings before) - started in the afternoon with track temps in the 45 C range (+- 113F) and ended in the dark by which time the temp must have dropped to 30 C (86 F). Very little wear on the tread although the outer wall was shot - easy to fix with super glue!

Now a 3 hour Enduro = 9 months std racing (3 x 5 mins heats + 1 x 5 minute final = 20 minutes) + the two race meeting before!

Tamiya B3's = a whole years racing on one set of tyres!

Sounds good to me (and I wish I'd taken advice before experimenting on all sorts of tyres!)

Cheers

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Old 05-28-2007, 06:05 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HARDRIVE
Hi guys need a lil help here.

I have a tc4 rtr with mamba7700
With this much power on mm7700 my tires worn out in couple runs
I mean really worn out I shred one tire hehehe

I'm looking for a wider rims and tires to use on my rtr tc4

We race on a parking lot with some tiny rocks you know how parking lots is

Any ideas what is wider tires and rims I can use? Drop in.

Thanx guys

Tamiya has 26mm tires. Yokomo and HPI also have, i think.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:16 AM   #269
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Any one know which Sorex insert is closest to Yokomo 039M (thin medium)? My guess it's Sorex CM, correct?
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:51 AM   #270
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Has anyone tryed the sorex A medium insert on sorex tyres?

does it perform any good in sorex tyres on outdoor ashpelt?

i want to reduce the air gap hoping it will make my tyres last longer, as i am getting the carcus roll over and cut the inner edge of the tyre after 1 race meet in stock 27t class. And i have had the car on a setup station and camber is only 1 degree negitive and i have tryed all sorts of springs front and back with no luck.
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