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Old 04-28-2007, 08:51 AM   #241
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WOW what a read went back 2 the start GREAT THREAD
confirms so much, and heaps to take in...
We run outdoor aphalt med traction and it gets hot cs 37-27 when cooler,,,,now thay come pre glued my experiance with rubber, thats it.....thats wot da shop got..

Q. how dose WD-40 work on tyre.? application & cause........(WD-40 engine spray?)

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Old 04-28-2007, 09:00 AM   #242
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wd40
"
Main ingredients, from the material safety data sheet are:

* 50%: Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits, also commonly known as dry cleaning solvent)
* 25%: Liquified petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant, carbon dioxide is used now to reduce considerable flammability)
* 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
* 10-%: Inert ingredients
"

I'm guessing it can be thought of as just another synthetic oil-based cleaner.
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Old 04-28-2007, 01:24 PM   #243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The RP24 and RP24GL are still available. There are no plans to discontinue them that I am aware of and I am the US importer.

We have a few hundred RP24's in stock (4pk tires with no insert) and ~1000 RP24GL's (4pk RP24 premounts) in stock right now.
Thanks Adrian I hoped you would see my post.

For anyone new to this thread, there is indeed a wealth of information including full rundown on tire compounds, saucing, etc. earlier in the posts.
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:27 PM   #244
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Thanks A-damage
But do you just wipe the tyre with it before race?

ive been using ct-18 truck wash and wash the tyre with it and let dry comes out stickyer
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:03 AM   #245
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i have a few questions:
i cracked a rim and want to soak the tires and rim in acetone so i can re use the tire, with the acetone effect the tire? ie lower grip or cause weird handleing. 2ndly ive heard inserts break down and are only good for one use ie once tires are shot throw em.
im on a budget hence these questions. i use sorex tires and inserts and shcumacher proline so i can re use them.
with re using rims is there anything i should look for or why i shoudnt?
cheers guys this is an awsome thread for tire info.
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:49 PM   #246
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quantum - Simple green is good. It will not dry out the tires. You just want to avoid anything that will strip the oils from the rubber.

dodgeguy - Buggy grip is solvent based but it does not dry out the tires. It has some oil component to is as it leaves an oily residue after it evaporates. It does make the tires sticky and I like to use it almost like a primer before putting on whatever traction compound I want to use.

ROV - WD40 is actually a decent traction compound and it is also a great tire cleaner.

aus jd 2703 - I think Acetone would hurt the tires. A rule of thumb I use is if it dries out your skin I dont use it on my tires. I am sure you all have gotten motor spray (its really non-clorinated brake cleaner) on your hands and have seen you skin turn dry and white as it evaporates off you hands. It does the same to your tires...you dont want that.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:00 AM   #247
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has anbody experience with x-gear additives?
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:22 AM   #248
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What good pre-glued tires are used for abrasive asphalt with track temp around 36-40C? the surface is not sealed ,it has exposed aggregate. this is for club racing to the more runs the better. im lookin @ much more 32r,sorex 36r, rp30/36 or team orion's 06 ifmar tires.

ps its mod racing using brushless on a large track, the speeds are very high

Last edited by Island Losi; 05-20-2007 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 05-21-2007, 03:19 PM   #249
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any feedback?
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:12 PM   #250
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Try the Sorex premounted (speedmind) 32 or 36's. They last awhile and wear pretty good. But remember, if the track is very abrasive, it might not really matter at all which tire you use. Right now I'm testing out Muchmore premounted 32's. They are maybe a tenth slower than my Sorex premounts at our track. But the Muchmores were pretty consistant through the whole run. I'm gonna do some more testing with them. But try working with your setup so it's not pushing your tires to the limit if you want to keep the wear and tear down to a minimum. That and throttle control. Be smooth with the trigger.
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:50 PM   #251
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thaks for the info. please report on the much more tires. hows the consistantcy compared to the sorex?
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Old 05-22-2007, 07:49 AM   #252
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Everyone keep in mind that tires wear most often has mostly to do with car setup. The softer the suspension the more grip will be generated by the car's suspension and the longer you tires will last. If you are running stiff springs and swaybars you are relying entirely on the tires and you will roast them.

If you are running on asphalt you should be running 14lb springs all around or maybe one step stiffer in the front. This goes for all brands of cars.

Also, if you car is pushing you will roast front tires. If your car is setup perfect you should see equal tire wear on all for tires. If you front tires are wearing faster than your rears you need to work on your setup.

Generally this means you are not transferring weight forward entering corners and/or the weight is not staying forward mid corner and exiting. You can fix this with some comination of the following: softer front springs, lighter front oil, leaning the front shocks in, a softer front sway bar, narrowing the front of your car and lowering the front lower hinge pins.
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:36 AM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Everyone keep in mind that tires wear most often has mostly to do with car setup. The softer the suspension the more grip will be generated by the car's suspension and the longer you tires will last. If you are running stiff springs and swaybars you are relying entirely on the tires and you will roast them.

If you are running on asphalt you should be running 14lb springs all around or maybe one step stiffer in the front. This goes for all brands of cars.

Also, if you car is pushing you will roast front tires. If your car is setup perfect you should see equal tire wear on all for tires. If you front tires are wearing faster than your rears you need to work on your setup.

Generally this means you are not transferring weight forward entering corners and/or the weight is not staying forward mid corner and exiting. You can fix this with some comination of the following: softer front springs, lighter front oil, leaning the front shocks in, a softer front sway bar, narrowing the front of your car and lowering the front lower hinge pins.
Oh, yes! that is so true, but it came to me after I have read your answer. I read a lot about RC but just reading your stuf it's so easy to accept and that's makes me a beter driver! There should be more drivers like you! I allso share all that i know with new drivers, but you know so much!
Thanks for that!
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:17 AM   #254
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Quote:
Everyone keep in mind that tires wear most often has mostly to do with car setup. The softer the suspension the more grip will be generated by the car's suspension and the longer you tires will last. If you are running stiff springs and swaybars you are relying entirely on the tires and you will roast them.

even if u are using spool and the track has more corners in one direction than the other? my left front wears really fast compared to the other tires. the track i race on has alot of right hand hair-pins and high speed corner. and ill running a soft setup.
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:39 AM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island Losi
even if u are using spool and the track has more corners in one direction than the other? my left front wears really fast compared to the other tires. the track i race on has alot of right hand hair-pins and high speed corner. and ill running a soft setup.
Cars with spools when properly setup turn just as hard as a one way car...but you can drive them harder into corners. This is why you don't see top drivers running one ways much anymore. Even on carpet and the big Euro tracks spools have proven to be faster.

If the normal things to get more steering don't work. You need to get more rear rotation. Lay in your rear shocks, raise you rear roll center or shorten you rear wheelbase.

The spool is not an issue your car is either still pushing or not rotating.
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