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Old 01-06-2005, 02:21 AM   #61
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take your time, we dont want a stripped screw now do we
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Old 01-06-2005, 03:25 AM   #62
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Yeh, that can be the biggest pain in the ass.

Its amazing the weird stuff that will happen when you are building a kit. I remember once that I got a new ceramic bearing STUCK in my allen driver's handle. HOW WEIRD IS THAT!?!?!? It gets worse, because it had my F201 front prop shaft with it too!!!
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Old 01-06-2005, 04:42 AM   #63
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Worst one I ever had was attaching the large ball end to a TTR S3..

The allen wrench snapped off in the ball....

Took me an age to get the broken piece out of the ball so I could finish screwing it on...

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Old 01-06-2005, 07:16 AM   #64
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hmmm 4 hours later and only front and rear diff are bolted on the chassis and the motor mount...

that rear ball diff gave me trouble! i've never done a ball diff only geared diffs. balls keep on popping out!!! lol will finish it off tommorrow cant wait!

but question
it says if you use 6 seperate sells you dont need those battery brackets... so what do you use then? i see some of the cars use this strap... is that secure? and is that an extra you have to buy? what do you guys use?
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Old 01-06-2005, 10:33 AM   #65
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BrainTeased,
I just use strapping tape. You can even order pretty blue Xenon strapping tape on SpeedTechRC's site.

Since you are putting together your evo4 for the first time. Here's a tip -- you know big 1-piece plastic brace between the upper and lower deck.... don't use it! That part comes off the mold slightly bent 99% of the time and causes a chassis tweak when used. Use the individual support posts instead.
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Old 01-06-2005, 10:33 AM   #66
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use strapping tape
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Old 01-06-2005, 11:56 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally posted by linger
Here's a tip -- you know big 1-piece plastic brace between the upper and lower deck.... don't use it! That part comes off the mold slightly bent 99% of the time and causes a chassis tweak when used. Use the individual support posts instead.
I did that purely because the batteries sit better with the little posts and it makes maintenance easier...



Brainteased
You can still use the J2's that was a mistake in the instructions...

The battery clamp goes dimples up for a stick pack and dimples down for side by sides... Make sure you open up the battery slots with a file or a dremmel to get the cells to sit nicely

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Old 01-06-2005, 05:13 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
I did that purely because the batteries sit better with the little posts and it makes maintenance easier...



Brainteased
You can still use the J2's that was a mistake in the instructions...

The battery clamp goes dimples up for a stick pack and dimples down for side by sides... Make sure you open up the battery slots with a file or a dremmel to get the cells to sit nicely

thanks guys for the tips!

firstly
Galifrey:
after i file down my 6 cell slots, they say i should use tamiya instant cement... do i just use them on the filed part only... do i need to use it? as i would assume it would make a big mess!!! i have never used tamiya cement before.

Linger :
that long plastic piece brace... are you talking about the one sitting on the outside?

and Galifrey i've put the J1 and J2 battery posts as well im just putting everything on and will take everything off when i finish to follow those tips you guys give me.
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Old 01-06-2005, 05:47 PM   #69
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idk what to get..
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Old 01-06-2005, 05:48 PM   #70
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anyone selling the trf415 or the evo4? or evo3... surikarn.. idk.. i'm desperate..
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Old 01-06-2005, 06:11 PM   #71
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BrainTeased ,
The long plastic piece I was referring to is the one between the battery and the electronics. The thing that connects the upper and lower deck.
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Old 01-06-2005, 06:17 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
thanks guys for the tips!

firstly
Galifrey:
after i file down my 6 cell slots, they say i should use tamiya instant cement... do i just use them on the filed part only... do i need to use it? as i would assume it would make a big mess!!! i have never used tamiya cement before.

Linger :
that long plastic piece brace... are you talking about the one sitting on the outside?

and Galifrey i've put the J1 and J2 battery posts as well im just putting everything on and will take everything off when i finish to follow those tips you guys give me.
After you file down the battery slots use a Q-Tip and put some thin CA glue on it and then use the Q-tip and run it around the battery slots. This will seal the edges and not let the battery ground out on the graphite chassis.
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Old 01-06-2005, 06:21 PM   #73
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Wow, I didn't do anything like that on any of my carbon chassis and I've never had a problem. Ahh well, maybe I'll just leave it unless I have a problem.
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Old 01-06-2005, 06:25 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Wow, I didn't do anything like that on any of my carbon chassis and I've never had a problem. Ahh well, maybe I'll just leave it unless I have a problem.
It also helps keep the chassis from splitting. I do the whole outsideof my chassis. Really helps to keep it from spliting or cracking, especially in the front where the bumper meets. Also running the CA around the edges gievs the chassis a nice shiny and black edge for that finished look.
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Old 01-06-2005, 07:01 PM   #75
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oh okay thanks guys!

and linger im not up to that stage yet! only up to step 7!!! im getting lazy to start now lol.

i need a soldering iron!!! whats the best one out there?

i would also like a portable one with no wires that runs on batteries this a good idea? i've seen someone use one before making a reciever pack! looks so professional. how much do these cost roughly?


and guys ca glue and loctite glue is same thing yea?
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