R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-03-2005, 11:23 AM   #46
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 131
Default

Yeah sorry was typo, 1454g



30G of lead and the required stickies gets it to spot on 1500g with rubber tyres

Galifrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2005, 11:30 AM   #47
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
I talked with Steve at Speedtech and he said the rear plastic hubs get sloppy in a few runs and let the bearings move around and they the axles move some and beat the bearings up. He said the aluminum hubs help to stop this extra movement so the bearings are not as likely to be damaged. Problem to is that the 950 bearings are kinda small and have alot of load on them. Bigger bearings would solve this problem if Tamiya had aluminum hubs that used bigger bearings. Maybe I could fit in some of the TB-02 alum rear hubs as I think they use a little bit bigger bearing in those.

Think I have found the problem, the hex hub is pushing the centre of the bearing too far into the hub and putting the bearing under stress...

Gonna get some spacers to fit in between the bearings as this will solve two problems in one (the bearings getting sloppy in the hubs and stop the hex drive compressing the centre of the bearing..

I can only attribute this to using the 6mm hex drives rather than 4mm ones, but the front bearings are fine with the 6mm drives..

Whatever the reason, the spacers between the bearings will add a lot of protection for these puny bearings, so can only be a good thing.. Thinking about it, the inner race of the clapped bearings will make good spacers if I press them out

Galifrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2005, 08:26 PM   #48
Tech Elite
 
F. Alonso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,141
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to F. Alonso Send a message via Yahoo to F. Alonso
Default

I am using 6mm hexes without an issue but I put shims between the bearing and the pin. Try that.
__________________
Simon Feigl
RCRacer.com.au - Dedicated Australian Forum and Website

XRAY | HPI | Hotbodies | Hobbies Australia | LRP Electronics | Futaba
F. Alonso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2005, 01:41 AM   #49
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 131
Default

I used the shims, they make it worse...

Its when you tighten the wheel the hex pushes the shim, and clamps up the bearings against the drive cup...

The only thing I can think of is that the tolerance is slightly different on the rear hubs/front hubs and my 6mm hexes have too big a step on the end...



Last edited by Galifrey; 01-04-2005 at 03:14 AM.
Galifrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2005, 07:08 AM   #50
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,141
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
Think I have found the problem, the hex hub is pushing the centre of the bearing too far into the hub and putting the bearing under stress...

Gonna get some spacers to fit in between the bearings as this will solve two problems in one (the bearings getting sloppy in the hubs and stop the hex drive compressing the centre of the bearing..

I can only attribute this to using the 6mm hex drives rather than 4mm ones, but the front bearings are fine with the 6mm drives..

Whatever the reason, the spacers between the bearings will add a lot of protection for these puny bearings, so can only be a good thing.. Thinking about it, the inner race of the clapped bearings will make good spacers if I press them out

Cool. I would guess with the 6mm spacer we are running does stress the hub and bearing alot more since itgives the rim more leverage since the hexes are longer. If this is my only real problem then I can live with it. I had other cars that caused me alot more headaches than this.

I think the new alum. rear hubs with solve the problem for the most part. I will just keep a few 950 bearings with me at all times. My local shop does carry them.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2005, 07:09 AM   #51
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,141
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
I used the shims, they make it worse...

Its when you tighten the wheel the hex pushes the shim, and clamps up the bearings against the drive cup...

The only thing I can think of is that the tolerance is slightly different on the rear hubs/front hubs and my 6mm hexes have too big a step on the end...


You might be able to take some emery cloth and just ever so slightly sand down the back of the hex a tad.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2005, 07:13 AM   #52
Tech Elite
 
F. Alonso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,141
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to F. Alonso Send a message via Yahoo to F. Alonso
Default

Sounds weird Galifrey. I really have had no problems EVER with it pinching the bearings and I have shims + tighten up my flange nuts as hard as they go!! Crazy.
__________________
Simon Feigl
RCRacer.com.au - Dedicated Australian Forum and Website

XRAY | HPI | Hotbodies | Hobbies Australia | LRP Electronics | Futaba
F. Alonso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2005, 10:46 AM   #53
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 131
Default

I think the good news is that I know whats wrong and can fix it, sanding/filing the back of the hex seems like a good idea, but I think the safest long term fix is to run with the correct size spacer between the bearings...

This will clamp up the 2 inner races parallel to each other perfectly and should improve the overall durability of the bearings while running in the plastic/graphite rear hubs...

One thing I will say is that the car went okay on sunday anyway, so I am only looking forward to better things from this car..

Galifrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2005, 05:43 PM   #54
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

hey guys just an update!

im gonna get my tamiya evo 4 kit tommorrow!
cant wait to start building it
any tips for me?

do they come with spurs and pinions? im gonna be racing in 540 and need a final drive ratio i think of 4.5
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2005, 07:29 PM   #55
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,141
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
I think the good news is that I know whats wrong and can fix it, sanding/filing the back of the hex seems like a good idea, but I think the safest long term fix is to run with the correct size spacer between the bearings...

This will clamp up the 2 inner races parallel to each other perfectly and should improve the overall durability of the bearings while running in the plastic/graphite rear hubs...

One thing I will say is that the car went okay on sunday anyway, so I am only looking forward to better things from this car..

Sounds like you have your car running pretty well. That is cool. THe EVO is a nice car and is very capable of winning any race at anytime.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2005, 08:58 PM   #56
Tech Addict
 
vi3tishduy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 530
Send a message via AIM to vi3tishduy
Default

Ugh.... I'm more of a club racer, and I wasted my money on the TC3 and I knew it, but I just wanted it to look nice. Well.... Either the Evo4 or the 415... Which one would suit me. I run rubber, asphault, club racer... I know for sure that with the new car I will purchase willl only be for racing. This will probably be my last and final car...
vi3tishduy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2005, 09:09 PM   #57
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,141
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by vi3tishduy
Ugh.... I'm more of a club racer, and I wasted my money on the TC3 and I knew it, but I just wanted it to look nice. Well.... Either the Evo4 or the 415... Which one would suit me. I run rubber, asphault, club racer... I know for sure that with the new car I will purchase willl only be for racing. This will probably be my last and final car...
It is very hard to decide. Both cars have their strong points. I like the EVO because it is alot easier to get a front diff for the car and use all Tamiya parts to do so. The 415 you will need to use Yoke parts to make a diff.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2005, 11:17 PM   #58
Tech Addict
 
vi3tishduy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 530
Send a message via AIM to vi3tishduy
Default

So, It dosnt come with diffs? And Evo4 tweak easy?
vi3tishduy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2005, 12:48 AM   #59
Tech Elite
 
F. Alonso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,141
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to F. Alonso Send a message via Yahoo to F. Alonso
Default

The Evo IV and 415 come with 1 ball diff in the rear and a oneway up front.

Evo IV have more of a tweak issue then the 415s but its nothing THAT uber serious, just if you were used to have less tweak you could get pissed off with checking the car on a tweak station. I always do it before and after each run anyway as part of my car setup checks.
__________________
Simon Feigl
RCRacer.com.au - Dedicated Australian Forum and Website

XRAY | HPI | Hotbodies | Hobbies Australia | LRP Electronics | Futaba
F. Alonso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2005, 02:08 AM   #60
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Good news Guys my Tamiya TB evo 4 kit has arrived! about to get started
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:05 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net