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Old 01-02-2005, 06:43 PM   #16
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Well I talked to an inside source at Tamiya not too long ago about the whole thing as I was thinking about getting a 415MS but I decided not to. Forgetting reliability, hopups, things like that, the differences are fairly neglidgable really.

415 + 415MS:

Very Consistent
Belt Drive
Good for the more twisty tracks
Easier to setup
Slower over 1 lap

Evo 4

Very Fast over 1 lap
Does shine in open roads (a bit faster in straight line)
Little less consistent then 415 series
Shaft Drive
Little more reactive and twitchy to setup changes
Can Suffer Tweak problems

I hope that makes the decision easier. I'm glad that I got the Evo IV as I do prefer the shaft drive cars, plus they are made BY TAMIYA with Tamiya R&D, not with R&D from Tech Racing like the 415 is.

Overall I think that when given to the same driver around the same track, setup well with the same equipment, the cars will be about the same in terms of lap time + overall time.

So what's it gonna be?? Shaft... or Belt??
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Old 01-02-2005, 06:47 PM   #17
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age old question isn't it?
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Old 01-02-2005, 06:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
Just be prepared to replace the hub bearings regularly...

My rear ones blew after one race... (evo IV)

Don't hit stuff or just get the nice Aluminum ones and the problems solved. Not a big deal. A very easy fix.

I think it is presonal preferance. Shaft vs. belt. I personally like shaft cars. The main thing for me was I I didn't want to have to use Yoke parts to make a diff and since I do run some TCS races I wanted a car that was lega to run in them. I don't really car for one ways to the EVO IV was the car for me.
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Last edited by wyd; 01-02-2005 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 01-03-2005, 01:11 AM   #19
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Default Re: 415 or evo 4 ?

Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
i know people hate these questions but i just wanted to know which one of these has less design flaws

also which one needs more hop ups out of the box?

all comments appreciated
thanks guys!
hey brainteased... some ppl forgot to mention. if you get the OLD 415..and put on the lw suspension. it'll give you more tuning options for wheelbase adjustments.
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:30 AM   #20
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thank you all for your time to respond and help!

well if you ask for me to choose shaft or belt i'd choose shaft!

but it seems like the 415 is more reliable this is from gut instinct but after the reponse from you guys it seems there isnt really any down sides to it.

but i would also like to ask when you say the 415 is more consistant do you mean with setup wise and handling of the car? meaning setup it up good and it will drive like that for at least 1 month ? or do you mean its so easy to drive that you'll be much more consistant?
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:41 AM   #21
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Yeh, well with the 415MS, that has the same suspension components as the Evo IV so they are pretty similiar anyway. When we say that a chassis is consistent, we are talking about the ability to drive the car around the track at a consistent lap time, not consistency over a month. That's partly because the Evo IV is faster over 1 lap and can pull off a banzai lap (partly due to torque and rip from the shaft drives) but the belt drive 415s are more consistent.

A lot of people talk about the RX series Mazdas (RX-7, RX-8, etc) as being ultra smooth. That's due to the rotary system which I think is very similiar to Belt Driven cars. Shaft driven cars are a bit more on edge so can be faster in 1 lap but to do that consistently is another thing. That's the way I like to think of them at least.

I prefer shaft due to ease of building and I want the fastest thing I can get. Anything that I drive, I wanna have the ability of going as fast as I can, and I'll leave the consistency to my driving. That's how I look at it anyway.

Hope this hasn't made it all a blur!
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:59 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Don't hit stuff or just get the nice Aluminum ones and the problems solved. Not a big deal. A very easy fix.

I think it is presonal preferance. Shaft vs. belt. I personally like shaft cars. The main thing for me was I I didn't want to have to use Yoke parts to make a diff and since I do run some TCS races I wanted a car that was lega to run in them. I don't really car for one ways to the EVO IV was the car for me.
I didnt hit anything, after one heat all 4 rear hub bearings were virtually siezed solid and notchy, like they had been squeezed up too tight in the hub carrier...

Alluminium what? rear hubs? how does that save the bearings?

The problem is the bearings in the rear hub are very small and fragile to keep the un-sprung weight down (front as well) but the front still runs freely...

I would expect them to go notchy if I crashed, but I didnt.. Also I would expect the fronts to go first not the rears...

Gonna have to investigate a bit, maybe the cup locking rings are causing the shafts to bindup and stressing the bearing...

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Old 01-03-2005, 04:02 AM   #23
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Yeh, sounds a bit crazy. I have never had a single issue with my rear bearings, and I have taken hits!! Hope you sort the problem out Galifrey.
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:05 AM   #24
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lol not at all a blur alfonzo
i now understand what you mean

to be honest my best consistancy in a 5 min heat with my nitro shaft car was 0.55 secs

so the evo 4's come with those reversable arms, inwhich you can adjust wheel base with it? well thats a bonus

once again thanks to all that contributed

will let you guys know what i end up with
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:11 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Yeh, sounds a bit crazy. I have never had a single issue with my rear bearings, and I have taken hits!! Hope you sort the problem out Galifrey.
Was quite fun, had zippo performance yesterday as didnt have any bearings to change, so had no performance down the straight, everything just whipped past me...

Only managed 3rd in the B-Final... lol

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Old 01-03-2005, 04:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
lol not at all a blur alfonzo
i now understand what you mean

to be honest my best consistancy in a 5 min heat with my nitro shaft car was 0.55 secs

so the evo 4's come with those reversable arms, inwhich you can adjust wheel base with it? well thats a bonus

once again thanks to all that contributed

will let you guys know what i end up with
Happy to be of help. Nice Avatar by the way!
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:29 AM   #27
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haha i always get complimented for my avatar

also noticed you guys in the evo 4 thread saying the evo 4 is under weight! may i ask how much it weighs with all electrics on except body?

the pro 4 weighed in at 1264 g i think

also 415 guys what does this weigh with all electric on except shell?
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:37 AM   #28
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Look, I don't know what a lot of the other guys are talking about.

I have a practically fully hopped up Evo IV and my car, with everything about to race and no weights, weighs in at 1502g!!

Even without the hopups, the car wasn't that much heavier so I don't know what these people are talking about to be honest.

I mean, I use Surge Batteries, Novak GT7, Futaba S9550 Servo and a small Hitec Receiver. Not exactly heavy equipment so I dunno how these people have such light cars. Perhaps they are talking about what its like not fully equipped.
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:54 AM   #29
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whoops pressed quote instead of edit.... see my next post.
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:55 AM   #30
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1502 g's!!!
thats heavy! i think?

about a week ago i was interested in the pro 4 and did abit of research and saw a picture of a pro 4 fully equiped without body weighing in at only 1264 !!! hmmm i dunno but now im doing research on a charger lol!
supernova 250s or CDC v6 b

does anyone know if the supernova shows lots of battery data and does it have a cycling function?

i can save about 130 choosing supernova.
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