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Old 01-03-2005, 11:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
Main difference between these two cars - Marketed for different price points.

The T1 Raycer was designed to the entry level racer or basher that wanted to step up to a more modern design. It doesn't have all the bells and whisles of the T1 FT kit.

The Xray Factory team kit was designed for the seasoned racer, giving them all the tools to be competitive from the local races to national level. It has been engineered to be the best that it can be at the same price as the previous kit, the EVO 2 Freedom of Choice kit. As other people had said, it has short arm c-hub suspension, low 1.77 internal gear ratio, factory built ball dif with carbide dif balls AND carbide thrust bearing resulting in much smoother operation then previous steel versions, one-way front dif usually always used in large outdoor asphalt racing, every part has been redesigned to lighten up the chassis which results in faster lap times, and many more.

Can each kit be equally competitive on the track?? You bet. But if you can't see the difference in these two kits then you have a lot more to learn.

John

AMEN!!!
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Old 01-03-2005, 12:08 PM   #17
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Both are very good tourers.
At the moment I'm running with the T1-Raycer and I van keep up with guys who are driving with the T1 Factory Kit.
But there are some differences, the Factory Kit is stiffer and lighter than the raycer.
So the Raycer is easier to drive, and in my opinion also easier to adjust.
Maybe that's because you didn't feel the difference, with the FK you make more mistakes, because it's stiffer and lighter.
The Raycer isn't, its a bit heavier and has more flex, so it's easier to drive
If you are a TQ-racer (for example Josh Cyrul) you don't really make large mistakes (or you can control them).
If you're just a club racer, I think you're better of with the raycer.
So yes, the FK is the fastest... if you're capable to handle it.
And you shouldn't forget what YOU like, I prefer a car that has a bit flex so it's easier to drive, but the laptimes are a bit higher.
But the comprimise is that the laptimes are steady and that I don't make large mistakes.
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Old 01-03-2005, 07:55 PM   #18
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Default ok but..

anything else about running the car(s) ???? race wise.
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Old 01-03-2005, 11:00 PM   #19
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Being that there is only a $100 difference between the kits... I say FK all the way. Every part has been re-engineered for lightness, tuneable agility and balance. With lightness and the low-ratio pulleys, you get blazing speed. If you think about it... every mod on the FK come to about a buck-fifty tacked onto a Raycer. It's all worth it. New stronger and sweet looking duraluminum bulk heads which weigh like nothing compared to other aluminum bulk heads on other kits.

If you were only into TC as a hobby, this car will bring the racer out of you... then it becomes more of a passion on a serious sporting level. This car (from building to racing) alone has made me a better driver.

Nothing beats precision. I always compensated my driving to get a car to handle or run the way I thought or felt it should run. But running this car, you can actually feel the course with every adjustment. Hand-eye coordination feels super-natural. You might think I'm B.S.ing, but anybody who has one will tell you their lap times have gone down.

I do however run a [email protected] BMI 350 chassis for lightness and super stiffness. And I bought a spool and diff for different tracks. But other than that, you need no other hop-ups. Spend it on tires and track time.
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Old 01-03-2005, 11:17 PM   #20
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Yeah me too i have a T1R and im very happy about that i made a great buy!! and trust me the T1R is a very good car for the price you pay for it!!! but if you someone has the money to buy a FK go for it!! because the fk just have all the things and all the graphite parts that you want in your T1R!! Graphite its not faster but has better looks and ligther. My T1R now is a T1R Evo2 look like a FK hehe!!! My T1R has a 2.5 mm Graphite Chassis , 2.5mm Graphite Top Plate and Graphite Shock Tower and a Evo2 Rear end (Pivot Ball) and looks like a FK with the Silver bulkheads!! both car are very good but like i said if you have the money to buy a FK go for it you have the car to win!!!

Later!!!

P.S Its my first post hehe!!
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Old 01-04-2005, 06:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Both are very good tourers.
At the moment I'm running with the T1-Raycer and I van keep up with guys who are driving with the T1 Factory Kit.
But there are some differences, the Factory Kit is stiffer and lighter than the raycer.
So the Raycer is easier to drive, and in my opinion also easier to adjust.
Maybe that's because you didn't feel the difference, with the FK you make more mistakes, because it's stiffer and lighter.
The Raycer isn't, its a bit heavier and has more flex, so it's easier to drive
If you are a TQ-racer (for example Josh Cyrul) you don't really make large mistakes (or you can control them).
If you're just a club racer, I think you're better of with the raycer.
So yes, the FK is the fastest... if you're capable to handle it.
And you shouldn't forget what YOU like, I prefer a car that has a bit flex so it's easier to drive, but the laptimes are a bit higher.
But the comprimise is that the laptimes are steady and that I don't make large mistakes.
i also beat t1fks with a t1r.......main problem i have is its really heavy
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Old 01-04-2005, 04:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by pink pac man
i also beat t1fks with a t1r.......main problem i have is its really heavy
i run a T1R & had to add 65grams + transponder to get it up to weight(1525)
as for you other people with flex issues try using the 2.5mm top carbon deck it takes it away.
i'm running the 1.77 pulley set & front oneway the rest is stock, as for the short arms it gives you slightly more grip, i tried this on my second T1R & did not like it as much (about a second slower).
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Old 01-04-2005, 06:22 PM   #23
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You pay for what you get. And most likely down the road people end up putting all the facory kit parts on it anyway. So instead of having to do it gradually just go straight into the FK.
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Old 01-06-2005, 12:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by flysti
i run a T1R & had to add 65grams + transponder to get it up to weight(1525)
as for you other people with flex issues try using the 2.5mm top carbon deck it takes it away.
i'm running the 1.77 pulley set & front oneway the rest is stock, as for the short arms it gives you slightly more grip, i tried this on my second T1R & did not like it as much (about a second slower).
so what you saying about weight is that people think that it is heavy but its not and it doesnt flex as much as people think if you put a 2.5 mm top deck

correct ??

also i recored my FK with a very quick time at my local track a fee week ago but my T1R does the same lap time with the same gear

i dont know whats going ?? i think my driving is getting better
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Old 01-06-2005, 12:59 AM   #25
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Default fly sti

FLY STI do you have a pic of your T1R ???
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Old 01-06-2005, 04:15 AM   #26
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Originally posted by (V)r>?[email protected][email protected]
FLY STI do you have a pic of your T1R ???
i'll send you one
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:29 AM   #27
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Hi guys:

I 'd like to know about the 1.77 internal ratio vs the 2.125, doesn't it all comes down to the final ratio to make a car run properly according to track size, winds, etc, etc.? I am just not quite clear on this one! please help!....


Omar R.
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Old 01-06-2005, 01:49 PM   #28
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The 1.77 will allow the car to accelerate faster. This is due to less drag in the drive train because with the pulleys being closer to the same size (32 and 18 compaired to 34 and 16) they don't bend the belt at as much of an angle. You can definitely see the difference. I was racing my FK against my friends stock T1R and mine was faster down the straight and out of the turns and mine was heavier thanks to having to run a cyclone. The low ratio pulley set is well worth the money.
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Old 01-06-2005, 02:46 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by NismoSkyline17
The 1.77 will allow the car to accelerate faster. This is due to less drag in the drive train because with the pulleys being closer to the same size (32 and 18 compaired to 34 and 16) they don't bend the belt at as much of an angle. You can definitely see the difference. I was racing my FK against my friends stock T1R and mine was faster down the straight and out of the turns and mine was heavier thanks to having to run a cyclone. The low ratio pulley set is well worth the money.
You have to adjust your pinion/spur size accordingly right? or did you just use the same as before?
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Old 01-06-2005, 02:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by NVisible
You have to adjust your pinion/spur size accordingly right? or did you just use the same as before?
You do have to change your spur/pinion gear combo to adjust for the different internal gear ratio.
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