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Old 01-11-2012, 01:48 PM   #16
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The easy option is to run 26mm front foams all the way around. Normally with electric and foam we run slightly softer rears then fronts. I'm running 42shore fronts and 37shore rears. But that's with 30mm rears cut down to 26mm. I do that with a tyre truer and a very sharp stanely knife. If you decide to run 26mm front tyres on the rear, go down one more step in shore rating. 42/35 should be ok. The "rear" foam tyres offer more side bite then the "front". The feeling of the fronts on the rears to me is that the grip snaps away, making it difficult to drive the car on the edge.

If you can, true your foams down to 62mm for a new set. This will help prevent chunking.

As for sway bars, it depends on the track, how much grip is available, what springs your running and most of all preference. Sway bars can reduce grip in certain situations.
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
The easy option is to run 26mm front foams all the way around. Normally with electric and foam we run slightly softer rears then fronts. I'm running 42shore fronts and 37shore rears. But that's with 30mm rears cut down to 26mm. I do that with a tyre truer and a very sharp stanely knife. If you decide to run 26mm front tyres on the rear, go down one more step in shore rating. 42/35 should be ok. The "rear" foam tyres offer more side bite then the "front". The feeling of the fronts on the rears to me is that the grip snaps away, making it difficult to drive the car on the edge.

If you can, true your foams down to 62mm for a new set. This will help prevent chunking.

As for sway bars, it depends on the track, how much grip is available, what springs your running and most of all preference. Sway bars can reduce grip in certain situations.
aha I got it..
what about differental? any block? front or rear?


btw what about 3racing items what do u think? about chassis suspension etc ... are good?
i used in fw05rr some 3racing but they broke easy..
i would like to upgrade my chassis kyosho plastic for carbon.but i am afraid that 3racing.

Last edited by *Kezar*; 01-14-2012 at 05:56 AM.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:58 AM   #18
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Basics:

Set for low traction:
Solid axle front,medium to loose rear diff
full available droop
medium/soft springs
...and if available,Masami's hands !
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:09 PM   #19
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i think there is only 1 spot for ball end or i am wrong..
the other 1 plastic ball in the suspension arm is for anti roll bar or i am wrong?

btw why u suggest me upgrade to aluminum front drive shaft.. u think the standard drive shaft will broken?or there is another reason?

Sorry if I was unclear, you will have to drill new 2.5mm holes.

It is more load on the front drive shafts due to the angle when turning on throttle.
Depending on which motor you will run the aluminium last longer, just remember to not run them dry.


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Originally Posted by ChampRC View Post
Hey I bought the 43mm ones and they're too short.
Plz tell me how you got these to fit!!!
Are you sure you got TFW053 and not TF007 that will fit TF-5 Stallion/Shin.
Both are 43mm but to fit TF007 in TF-5 RTR you will have to change knuckles (TF006-4).
Stallion/Shin knuckles use smaller end bearings (5x9x3mm), thats why TF007 have shorter wheel shafts.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:48 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by dark_luna View Post
Sorry if I was unclear, you will have to drill new 2.5mm holes.

It is more load on the front drive shafts due to the angle when turning on throttle.
Depending on which motor you will run the aluminium last longer, just remember to not run them dry.




Are you sure you got TFW053 and not TF007 that will fit TF-5 Stallion/Shin.
Both are 43mm but to fit TF007 in TF-5 RTR you will have to change knuckles (TF006-4).
Stallion/Shin knuckles use smaller end bearings (5x9x3mm), thats why TF007 have shorter wheel shafts.

i will run an ezrun 8.4t 4000kv..
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:14 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Kezar* View Post
i will run an ezrun 8.4t 4000kv..
you mean 8.5T...
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:21 AM   #22
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BTW this is my new babes:

Trinity switchblade 10,almost new,need some corrections (see wiring)
X-Ray T1FK 05.... ready to race!
Attached Thumbnails
TF5 (rtr) project-110120121643.jpg   TF5 (rtr) project-110120121644.jpg   TF5 (rtr) project-130120121655.jpg  
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:36 AM   #23
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yeah i mean 8.5t i miss click the 4 number.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:37 PM   #24
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Ok then test with the plastic
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:08 PM   #25
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guys i have a problem i heard those 2 things plastic DIFF.SHAFT SET
they broke easy on 8.5 turn after few batteries..
from shop they didnt gave me those.
ALUM.DIFF.SHAFT SET/TF-5 STALLION with code TFW001
they give me this
STEEL DIFF.SHAFT SET/ZX5 with code LA201
the problem is that metallic disk when i add those steel diff shaft set from zx5 its turning around all time when the differental work.
there is no something to stop it like on normal plastic or the allum.

anyone know what to do?
please inform me because i am lil bit confused.
that metallic disk must be stopped all the time?
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