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Old 12-29-2004, 12:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlackKat
So its a typical Trinity eh?
Yup... its fast
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:43 PM   #17
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LOL...Got me there Ottoman

Seems like this is my best stocker to date though

22,000+ RPM @ 4 amps freeload is decent for a stocker (to me atleast)

The setup I'm using on it right now: 4499, Hole on both + & - brushes with stock springs (red/green) This thing RIPS outdoors but I'm trying to get it up to snuff indoors

I'm gonna do more tuning in a few....5 page essays for History Honors kinda suck without Microsoft Word (or any digital word processor) I Need a break
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:40 PM   #18
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We were getting monsters to pull 24,000 and 8amps at 2 volts this past summer
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:54 PM   #19
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Right now....

ROAR Stock:
22,300 RPM @ 5v
4 amps @ 5v (No Load)
Brushes: Reedy 767
Springs: Trinity Purple

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Old 12-29-2004, 02:13 PM   #20
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I can only give you the stats on the motors that i ran last and that was in the summer, early fall.
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Old 12-29-2004, 02:24 PM   #21
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How much can you mess with the thickness of a brush before you start affecting the timing of the motor?
Which as far as I know is illegal.
Some of you are talking about just the face of the brush, but is that also changing the timing temporary?

Thanks and God Bless
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Old 12-29-2004, 02:55 PM   #22
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The Rules for Stock state that the ENDBELL must be locked at 24deg, not that the magnets must be centered @ 0deg. Narrowing the brush face changes the overlap of the poles and if shaved more on either the trailing or leading edge will also change the timing of the motor but changing the timing in this manor IS legal. Before you go out and start shaving your brushes to increase timing Remember that increased timing increases RPM not Torq and narowing the brush will increase torq not RPM. Most motors work best with their brushes at full width and will lose power when narrowed.

Most importantly comparing motors @ 5V with no load when you will be using them in a 53oz touring car with a 7+V power source is completely useless. I for example have a stock motor that draws about 9A @ 5V with no load and produces over 40k RPM but would never use it. To acuratly test your motor you need to give it the voltage and load similar to what it will see when racing. I would sugest that anyone looking to tune motors get a real motor dyno like a Turbodyno or Robitronics.
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Old 12-29-2004, 03:04 PM   #23
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track = dyno
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Old 12-29-2004, 04:04 PM   #24
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40krpm at 5v (no load)
24krpm at 2v (assuming no load)

how are you getting these types of rpms from your motors?

i understand how it is completely irrelevant to a load number these are, but my stocks (no load) won't even come close to 10-12k/v as stated above.
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Old 12-30-2004, 06:26 AM   #25
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Most people dont relize that if your motor pulls 24k at 2 volts its probably only going to pull 24 k at 5 volts. Your tourqe and overall power increase. I know it sounds wierd and I have no scientific reasoning as to why it happens but I know that on 90 out of 90 rebuilds among 10 motors this was the case. We tried all different things once you have gotten the motor to a certain point, thats it. thats all you get. As far as how you get the motors to do that....well trim a brush here slot a brush there align this polish that....its really just an art and you learn from trial and error. In my local racing scene I can build a pretty fast motor, but its nothing compaired to the guys I race against. Also it depends on your initial motor you get. if you start out with 70 watts of power you are going to have more to work with than a person who started with 66 watts.
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Old 12-30-2004, 07:15 AM   #26
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Default Brush cutting

mtveten & Bob, what methods should I do to mod my brushes? Are there any special tools to cut the brushes? How much of a trailing edge to you need to cut /file off? And what size bit do you you use to make the holes?

Sorry if this is off topic. After a few years of nitro TC, getting back into electric feels so new again. And now that my car is dialed I'd like to learn how to better tune my motors. This is great stuff guys, thanks!
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:12 AM   #27
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I use an Xipp brush cutting tool, available from Intgy but there are other brush cutters that work just as well. When I say narrowed brush I use the cutting wheel to shave the material down, the amount shaved varies with each brush but I always shave down a spicific width such as .140".

When I drill my brushes I use a jig made by Putnam and usualy a #42 drill bit. The jig is not important but if you have dificulty holding the brush while drilling it certainly helps.

For anyone interested in learing more about motor tuning I would suggest checking out the Big Jim threads over rccars.com, BJ is probably the most knowledgeable motor tuner around.

Mark
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:22 AM   #28
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Thanks a ton, mtveten! I'm going to stop in at my LHS and hopefully start experimenting tonight.
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:03 PM   #29
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Default RPM'S

Mine Roar binary checked out at 27,000 r's underload. Ran don't know what kind of brushs, baught off of local fast guy, think there e-brushes. green - and +. filed corners off brushes to drop amp slightly for 12th scale. had to drop 4 teeth. the motor is a missle!
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:14 PM   #30
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So far my favorite stock motor is the new Epic ROAR stock..... Purple springs, putnam green brushes, small cavity (I just use the tip of an xacto knife to make the cavity It ends up a bit smaller than a #42 hole) and the brush hood aligned so the brush wears in the center. I usually dont dyno my motors...... I just run them on the track.

-Korey
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