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Old 04-17-2013, 02:16 PM   #61
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No but you can put the hald of a 2s pack in a 1/12th car!
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:40 PM   #62
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I just saw this old thread and thought about reviving it. I'm newly getting back into RC. I have an old RC12L and after visiting my local club chatted a few people up. They run 1s, 17.5, blinky. I had seen those stubby 2 cell saddle packs thawed mentioned earlier in this thread and thought about setting up the old 12L with 1/2 the pack and balance the electronics on the other side with some ballast.
I'm wondering if anyone is still contemplating or actually running a setup like this.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:51 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
I just saw this old thread and thought about reviving it. I'm newly getting back into RC. I have an old RC12L and after visiting my local club chatted a few people up. They run 1s, 17.5, blinky. I had seen those stubby 2 cell saddle packs thawed mentioned earlier in this thread and thought about setting up the old 12L with 1/2 the pack and balance the electronics on the other side with some ballast.
I'm wondering if anyone is still contemplating or actually running a setup like this.
The saddle packs are taller than normal 1s packs and may not clear the body. CRC makes a shorty 1s pack that could fit for you:

https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7719205

The other problem that you will find is that the new brushless motors are longer and have a different center of gravity than the old motors, and as a result brushless pods moved the motor plate out about 0.3" to compensate and without that one side of the pod will be considerably heavier than the other. I ran a CRC 3.2 pod with a brushless motor and it can be made to work but it wont be ideal.

My recommendation, get started with what you can but think about investing in a kit very soon.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:44 AM   #64
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Yeah, it's for those reasons in thinking of looking for a 1/10 pan or Touring car for one of the rubber tire classes the club here runs ( They run WGTR on spec rubber tires and VTA )
Still I want to find a use other than Shelf Queen for the old 12L .
putting it back on the road as a running resto-mod for playing only came to mind, Or attaching the T bar rear end to a home made chassis to stretch it into 1/10 drag car
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:47 AM   #65
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I have been running an old RC12L4 on 1s/17.5t lately. Brings back some old memories. A 1s battery down one side.
My problem has been gearing. The car has the new three bolt hubs, but I could not fit smaller than a 55t 48p spur gear on the diff plate holders. Even with that I had to machine the od of the diff rings to fit the gear. I have a 35t pinion on it and I am getting blown away on the straights. We run the purple stripe CRC foam tires. The other guys are running pinions about the same size as the spurs (on the newer sidelink cars). I might can get a 36t pinion on it but that would be it. Does anyone know if an axle set from a RC12R5 would fit? I just don't want to sink a bunch of money in this old car.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:49 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
I just saw this old thread and thought about reviving it. I'm newly getting back into RC. I have an old RC12L and after visiting my local club chatted a few people up. They run 1s, 17.5, blinky. I had seen those stubby 2 cell saddle packs thawed mentioned earlier in this thread and thought about setting up the old 12L with 1/2 the pack and balance the electronics on the other side with some ballast.
I'm wondering if anyone is still contemplating or actually running a setup like this.
Contact Gavin at speedzone, they did sell a 1s saddle pack for 12th cars perhaps they still do or may have one. However that will not be your only issue as tim s has pointed out in his post. Getting an old car to run on 1s is easy, being competitive is not as easy.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:10 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by tim_s View Post
I have been running an old RC12L4 on 1s/17.5t lately. Brings back some old memories. A 1s battery down one side.
My problem has been gearing. The car has the new three bolt hubs, but I could not fit smaller than a 55t 48p spur gear on the diff plate holders. Even with that I had to machine the od of the diff rings to fit the gear. I have a 35t pinion on it and I am getting blown away on the straights. We run the purple stripe CRC foam tires. The other guys are running pinions about the same size as the spurs (on the newer sidelink cars). I might can get a 36t pinion on it but that would be it. Does anyone know if an axle set from a RC12R5 would fit? I just don't want to sink a bunch of money in this old car.
I'd guess that almost any axle from a newer car would fit, assuming that it is 1/4" diameter and that you have a clamping left hub. You'll need to add a few spacers on the right side to compensate for the different offset, as DesertRat mentioned.

I use Robinson machined 48p spurs on my cars, and can fit down to a 49T (part # 1849) spur. But as you said, that does require the diff plate OD to be reduced. I use an old axle and hub set to hold the plates, chuck it up in my drill press, and grind them down with a hand grinder. Also, the diff holes in the spur are on a smaller diameter, which requires full diff plates; the ones that have been reshaped on the ID to save weight won't work.

P.S. You can also search for axle adjusters that have the hole moved about 0.060" to the rear to make room for a larger pinion. They were popular with the oval crowd way back when. I've got a few laying around here, but not in a complete selection of offsets.

Son of P.S.: And after reading everything I just wrote, I think it would be best to find a cheap, used, link chassis.
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:06 PM   #68
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I'd guess that almost any axle from a newer car would fit, assuming that it is 1/4" diameter and that you have a clamping left hub. You'll need to add a few spacers on the right side to compensate for the different offset, as DesertRat mentioned.

I use Robinson machined 48p spurs on my cars, and can fit down to a 49T (part # 1849) spur. But as you said, that does require the diff plate OD to be reduced. I use an old axle and hub set to hold the plates, chuck it up in my drill press, and grind them down with a hand grinder. Also, the diff holes in the spur are on a smaller diameter, which requires full diff plates; the ones that have been reshaped on the ID to save weight won't work.

P.S. You can also search for axle adjusters that have the hole moved about 0.060" to the rear to make room for a larger pinion. They were popular with the oval crowd way back when. I've got a few laying around here, but not in a complete selection of offsets.

Son of P.S.: And after reading everything I just wrote, I think it would be best to find a cheap, used, link chassis.
Thank you this is the kind of info that I was looking for. I will keep with it for awhile, I am not at a point where a new $200 chassis would make me a winner anyway.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:05 AM   #69
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A guy at the track had me level the 12l4 side to side at the back of the chassis. I used the tweak screws to do this. The car was almost undriveable the next heat. Re checked the tweak and it was way off. Set the tweak back to neutral and then the car handled like it old self. Is there another way to set the side to side ride height? I am sure the battery is making the one side ride low.
Thanks for the tip about the offset axle height adjusters. Gives you 1/16" more room for a bigger pinion.
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