1LikesT.O.P. PHOTON EX
11-13-2012, 11:06 PM
#1006
While building my Photon EX I tried using the optional center servo mount however I noticed that one can actually move the mount with enough force. It is not secure at all (two screws), therefore what is the trick with it or did I get a faulty part?
11-14-2012, 01:48 AM
#1007
Tech Regular
11-14-2012, 03:37 AM
#1009
I also had the problem. If you push the outside of the mount you can move the mount. If you are driving and hit something the car loses the center position of the steering because the mount turns.
Now I drive with the original mount.
Now I drive with the original mount.
11-14-2012, 04:32 AM
#1010
Guys,
Purchased the Reflex Racing TC6 LCD and Hot Bodies DCJs.
Findings as follows:
- The TC6 LCD dogbone won't fit in the TOP EX spool or gear diff outdrive.
- HB DCJ dogbone won't fit EX gear diff outdrive (yet to try in the spool)
Have you modified the dogbones or outdrives to get these to fit?
Also, looked at the TC6 spool outrives online, note they have a similar square to the TOP spool outdrive (the end fitted to spool).
Has anyone tried these? Don't really like the look of these, appear to be made from composite / plastic material ... but might be worth a try.
Cheers
Purchased the Reflex Racing TC6 LCD and Hot Bodies DCJs.
Findings as follows:
- The TC6 LCD dogbone won't fit in the TOP EX spool or gear diff outdrive.
- HB DCJ dogbone won't fit EX gear diff outdrive (yet to try in the spool)
Have you modified the dogbones or outdrives to get these to fit?
Also, looked at the TC6 spool outrives online, note they have a similar square to the TOP spool outdrive (the end fitted to spool).
Has anyone tried these? Don't really like the look of these, appear to be made from composite / plastic material ... but might be worth a try.
Cheers
As for the floating servo mount, I haven't tried one but I'm thinking this trend of the month is seriously overrated.
11-14-2012, 05:38 AM
#1011
Tech Regular
This happened me once - its really down to the big holes in the servo compared to the screw size I suppose. I have put the second original mount part on the chassis on the outside and put a screw through the bottom servo hole on the but did not tighten it up completely tight. So I have four screws through the servo but the one on the outside bottom is not tight - hope that makes sense... so the floating servo mount still works the way it's supposed to but in the event of a big crash the servo only moves a tiny bit and you can still finish the race.
11-18-2012, 08:06 AM
#1012
As for floating servo mount... I used the given 3 screws plus double sided tape on the bottom of the servo to help secure it. It has not move on me at all. Also want to add that I use the servo saver so if I did get into a hard hit the servo saver will move first before anything else. ( I use the tamiya aluminum high torque servo saver. It's the tall black one with 2 holes. Very high quality)
11-19-2012, 02:13 PM
#1013
Hey Guys,
I've never been happy with my EX, and may have found an issue...
The car 'seems' tweaked. When I lift an end up, one wheel sits about 4mm higher then the other. So its the left hand rear (motor side) and opposite front that have the issue. This is with a battery in the car, strap not to tight. Also, it sits perfectly on chassis blocks... flat and nice. The chassis itself is twisting differently!
ie, on blocks, I can see the chassis 'flexing' and lifting those opposite wheels (Doing the tweak test on chassis blocks)
L/R balance is perfect
I tried loosening the servo mounts and the motor mount mount screws and the layshaft screws.
This car has always hooked turning right, and I could not figure it out. Is my chassis plate stuffed? I replaced the top deck and no difference.
As said, from new I have had trouble getting this car to turn without snapping mid corner.... particularly right.
Any help appreciated...
Phill
I've never been happy with my EX, and may have found an issue...
The car 'seems' tweaked. When I lift an end up, one wheel sits about 4mm higher then the other. So its the left hand rear (motor side) and opposite front that have the issue. This is with a battery in the car, strap not to tight. Also, it sits perfectly on chassis blocks... flat and nice. The chassis itself is twisting differently!
ie, on blocks, I can see the chassis 'flexing' and lifting those opposite wheels (Doing the tweak test on chassis blocks)
L/R balance is perfect
I tried loosening the servo mounts and the motor mount mount screws and the layshaft screws.
This car has always hooked turning right, and I could not figure it out. Is my chassis plate stuffed? I replaced the top deck and no difference.
As said, from new I have had trouble getting this car to turn without snapping mid corner.... particularly right.
Any help appreciated...
Phill
11-19-2012, 03:22 PM
#1014
Tc6 spool cup won't fit top spool. But why not just use the tc6 spool along with tc6 dcj or cvd? I use that combo and it's been perfect for me.
As for floating servo mount... I used the given 3 screws plus double sided tape on the bottom of the servo to help secure it. It has not move on me at all. Also want to add that I use the servo saver so if I did get into a hard hit the servo saver will move first before anything else. ( I use the tamiya aluminum high torque servo saver. It's the tall black one with 2 holes. Very high quality)
As for floating servo mount... I used the given 3 screws plus double sided tape on the bottom of the servo to help secure it. It has not move on me at all. Also want to add that I use the servo saver so if I did get into a hard hit the servo saver will move first before anything else. ( I use the tamiya aluminum high torque servo saver. It's the tall black one with 2 holes. Very high quality)
For the TC 6 spool, is any modification required to fit into EX?
Also is the TC 6 spool 40 tooth?
11-19-2012, 08:57 PM
#1015
when those carpets setups be hiding... looking for a few tips..
11-19-2012, 09:16 PM
#1016
Ok Here is the setup I ran last week. Its almost exactly the same as the one I ran at the classic but the arm mounts are .5mm lower on this setup sheet.
I think the car is better this way right now.
I'm running full rebound in the shocks. NO holes in the caps. I filled up the shock and let the air bleed then just pushed the bladder on with the shaft fully extended. And put the cap on.
Battery is all the way in.
I think the car is better this way right now.
I'm running full rebound in the shocks. NO holes in the caps. I filled up the shock and let the air bleed then just pushed the bladder on with the shaft fully extended. And put the cap on.
Battery is all the way in.
11-19-2012, 11:40 PM
#1017
Ok Here is the setup I ran last week. Its almost exactly the same as the one I ran at the classic but the arm mounts are .5mm lower on this setup sheet.
I think the car is better this way right now.
I'm running full rebound in the shocks. NO holes in the caps. I filled up the shock and let the air bleed then just pushed the bladder on with the shaft fully extended. And put the cap on.
Battery is all the way in.
I think the car is better this way right now.
I'm running full rebound in the shocks. NO holes in the caps. I filled up the shock and let the air bleed then just pushed the bladder on with the shaft fully extended. And put the cap on.
Battery is all the way in.
11-20-2012, 08:25 AM
#1018
Anybody that has a good tip to prevent the leaking diff?
I already tried the mugen o ring, still have a leaking diff.
I already tried the mugen o ring, still have a leaking diff.
11-20-2012, 08:32 AM
#1019