how do i check for b/l motor damage?
#1
how do i check for b/l motor damage?
was having a practice run at my local track a few days ago, it was a very hot day, easily 32 degrees C, by the end of my run, the motor felt extremely hot, and so did the esc (viper vtx10/viper 13.5 motor) . i didnt have anything with me to monitor the temp but it felt extremely hot, i did have a heatsink on it with a high power fan though. how do i know if the motor is damaged?
i just took it apart and had a look and everything seems alright but i just want to make sure.
cheers, Yanni.
i just took it apart and had a look and everything seems alright but i just want to make sure.
cheers, Yanni.
#3
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
in my experience when the motor is starting to demagnetize it will get extremely hot, then it's just a matter of time before it stops working. you'll know it when it happens. it may start to turn erratically with less force (like cogging) or just die. in my case I've never experienced any kind of drag.
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
When you pull your motor apart, check for any black staining of the stator wires, and also check for any small bits of molten epoxy or plastic in the stator. Generally when I cook motors, the thing to go for me is the plastic that is right next to the magnet, and that makes the motor hard to spin when it's just sitting with no power.
#8
Short answer; yes.
When you pull your motor apart, check for any black staining of the stator wires, and also check for any small bits of molten epoxy or plastic in the stator. Generally when I cook motors, the thing to go for me is the plastic that is right next to the magnet, and that makes the motor hard to spin when it's just sitting with no power.
When you pull your motor apart, check for any black staining of the stator wires, and also check for any small bits of molten epoxy or plastic in the stator. Generally when I cook motors, the thing to go for me is the plastic that is right next to the magnet, and that makes the motor hard to spin when it's just sitting with no power.
i dont know how to get the circut board part of the motor out? or the stator!!
#9
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Useful info on testing B/L motors.
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t622019p1/
Hall Effect Sensor came off. Did it melt off, or something in motor came apart and knocked it off?
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t622019p1/
Hall Effect Sensor came off. Did it melt off, or something in motor came apart and knocked it off?
Last edited by luckyhomes; 12-24-2011 at 11:51 PM.
#10
Useful info on testing B/L motors.
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t622019p1/
Hall Effect Sensor came off. Did it melt off, or something in motor came apart and knocked it off?
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t622019p1/
Hall Effect Sensor came off. Did it melt off, or something in motor came apart and knocked it off?
it got knocked off and im thinking its my fault, i took the motor apart yester day and removed the rotor. when i was putting the rotor back in and was completely unaware of how strong the magnetic pull is, the back of the rotor shaft smashed into the PCB a few times :\
#15
it looks like that TINY black component does belong to the sensor assembly so im going to put my soldering skills to the test to re apply it to the board. would you have any clue as to which side is positive and negative to the tiny component? any signs?