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Old 12-24-2011, 03:21 AM   #1
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Default how do i check for b/l motor damage?

was having a practice run at my local track a few days ago, it was a very hot day, easily 32 degrees C, by the end of my run, the motor felt extremely hot, and so did the esc (viper vtx10/viper 13.5 motor) . i didnt have anything with me to monitor the temp but it felt extremely hot, i did have a heatsink on it with a high power fan though. how do i know if the motor is damaged?
i just took it apart and had a look and everything seems alright but i just want to make sure.

cheers, Yanni.
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Old 12-24-2011, 04:43 AM   #2
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usally if you heat one up to much you can first smell a burning smell. and then when you turn the rotor it usally will fell like it has alot of drag in it.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:26 PM   #3
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in my experience when the motor is starting to demagnetize it will get extremely hot, then it's just a matter of time before it stops working. you'll know it when it happens. it may start to turn erratically with less force (like cogging) or just die. in my case I've never experienced any kind of drag.
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:05 PM   #4
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The smell is the dead giveaway
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:18 PM   #5
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i didnt smell anything :P maybe the fan was my savior!!
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:17 AM   #6
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just connected my battery to give it a try... the motor wont turn. The esc is showing that it is recieving the signal, and i am able to change settings with the pro gauge etc... is the motor fried?
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:29 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
just connected my battery to give it a try... the motor wont turn. The esc is showing that it is recieving the signal, and i am able to change settings with the pro gauge etc... is the motor fried?
Short answer; yes.

When you pull your motor apart, check for any black staining of the stator wires, and also check for any small bits of molten epoxy or plastic in the stator. Generally when I cook motors, the thing to go for me is the plastic that is right next to the magnet, and that makes the motor hard to spin when it's just sitting with no power.
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:36 AM   #8
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Short answer; yes.

When you pull your motor apart, check for any black staining of the stator wires, and also check for any small bits of molten epoxy or plastic in the stator. Generally when I cook motors, the thing to go for me is the plastic that is right next to the magnet, and that makes the motor hard to spin when it's just sitting with no power.
i took the motor apart and removed the rotor, back of it is a bit scratched and lying on the rotor was a litlle black thing that looks like a component of the PCB

i dont know how to get the circut board part of the motor out? or the stator!!
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:41 AM   #9
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Useful info on testing B/L motors.

http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t622019p1/

Hall Effect Sensor came off. Did it melt off, or something in motor came apart and knocked it off?
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:59 AM   #10
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Useful info on testing B/L motors.

http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t622019p1/

Hall Effect Sensor came off. Did it melt off, or something in motor came apart and knocked it off?
are you sure its that? i would probably be able to put it back on the circut board if i can get it out of the motor can..
it got knocked off and im thinking its my fault, i took the motor apart yester day and removed the rotor. when i was putting the rotor back in and was completely unaware of how strong the magnetic pull is, the back of the rotor shaft smashed into the PCB a few times :\
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:12 AM   #11
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You got both ends of the motor off? Soldering it back on doesn't cost anything. But if it got hit that hard its probably not going to work.
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:19 AM   #12
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You got both ends of the motor off? Soldering it back on doesn't cost anything. But if it got hit that hard its probably not going to work.
i cant get the outer sleeve off. do i need to remove the stator first to do so?
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:21 AM   #13
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Photo of sensor board. Looks like the tabs hold may hold it in. Large cir-clip or maybe a rotation to a spot that the tabs line up with a slot to let it come out? Sorry never had a viper motor apart.
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how do i check for b/l motor damage?-vst_sensor_port_larger.jpg  
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:30 AM   #14
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I may be wrong but the outer sleeve and stator can stay together and the rest of the components can be removed.

When it was together and running hot did it stop working?
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by luckyhomes View Post
I may be wrong but the outer sleeve and stator can stay together and the rest of the components can be removed.

When it was together and running hot did it stop working?
no you are correct ! i was sitting there for ages blindly trying to pull the sleeve off , when all i had to do was turn the sensor harness to remove it.
it looks like that TINY black component does belong to the sensor assembly so im going to put my soldering skills to the test to re apply it to the board. would you have any clue as to which side is positive and negative to the tiny component? any signs?
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