Ballsie

Does anyone know if and when the black can version of the Hara motors will be released?

I can only seem to find the purple ones for sale.

Thanks!

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

The only difference is the stock brushes. The Hara comes with softer (Sprint) brushes, while the regular Touring (black) motor comes with harder (Enduro) brushes. Just get the Hara edition and then put Enduro brushes in, and you have yourself a better looking motor that perfoms the same.
-Josh

Hugo

iTrader: (1)

I think (95% sure) that the Hara version is only available with the purple can version.

Hugo

John Doucakis

iTrader: (1)

The motor in the picture of the 1st post is nothing special. Just a different sticker.
This is my Cyclone.

Ballsie

Thanks Guys.

DirtyDog3375

iTrader: (37)

I was wondering if anyone knew when and if these motors will become available to the public. (basically the same motor from what I can gather, but with a new endbell design - see pic for details)

EddieO

iTrader: (6)

While nobody knows for sure, they will more than likely out and available (probably in very limited quanities) before the Worlds in the beginning of July......mainly because it's required under the rules for the motor to be approved that it be commericially available worldwide.

Later EddieO

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

It still looks like the endbell motor bearing is retained by an O-ring. Sad. Axial movement of the arm causes severe damage in a crash that does not even break the car. Axial vibrations are of no import.
Better place to solder on leads though. Wish those air entry holes were a lot bigger. My theory is that the aluminum endbells provide a nice way for the motor to heat incoming cooling air that should be cooling the the comm. I would not bother to say these things, but two racers at our track were extremely frustrated with the V2 motors after spending the big bucks.

John Doucakis

iTrader: (1)

The way the endbell bearing is secured has not changed from the current layout. I thing that the problems faced by your two local racers where not related to the V2 motors but to the way they used them. If their settings were wrong any motor would have overheating problems. I've been racing V2 motors with great success for the past 2 years in very very hot conditions with no problems at all.

There are two things with the V2 motors that I always pay great attention to.
One is that you must make sure you solder the motor wires perfectly, with good contact to the solder tabs and second that the brushes slide with ease in the copper brush tube, with no binding at all.

Patriiick

iTrader: (3)

and that they need to be geared WAY lower than "normal" motors..
and if you are running grooved (ie Reinhart comms), even lower than that..

mark34

iTrader: (1)

When you say way lower do yo you mean a lower fdr or a higher Fdr please clarify as you may be able to help sort out an issue i have
Thanks
Mark

Nathan Parker

Mark thats a higer FDR NUMBER

Norm say 7.5 FDR
V2 8.5 FDR just an example nothing an actual figure to go by when compairing motors

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

John-the two problems were not heat related but caused by the comm tabs or larger segment of the comm contacting the angled brush hood tips (and brushes). Enough debris was created to pepper the armature windings with damage as well as damaging the brush hood tips. I'll aggree that if you never bump the side of the car on a high speed layout that this damage may not occur, but thats what we race on.

mark34

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Nathan it woulld appear that I have been overgearing my V2's
Cheers
Mark

caveman

Just replaces the O-ring with a metal C-clip and shims the arm properly, there should be no problem. I race on big high speed tracks as well, never has problem you mention.