overheated stock motor
 

If a stock motor is overheated, is it permanently damaged? Is there any way to restore the overheated motor to top performance instead of buying a new motor? Does the magnet need to be zapped (I heard excessive heat will damage the magnet).

I find it hard not to overheat a motor while testing for the best gearing of a track. How do the pros determine the optimum gearing without overheating the motor?

I'm not a pro, but start lower and work upwards. In reasonably and small steps.

Re: overheated stock motor
 

I would start with a small pinion and then work your way up.

and it might have to do sometimes with your Final Drive Ratio.

Whats considered "Overheated?" as far as a temperature? 100 Deg? 150Deg?

i consider it too hot to touch for at least 5 seconds. is overheating. not overheated. but ing. as i have no heatsensors to figure it out

i run any motor up to 100ºC on the brush hoods..........

i gear my car to get the fastest lap time, no matter what temp the motor reaches...


BTW >>> i've never burnt my motors, and before i started to tune my motor this way, i've lost some races due to my worries about temperature, damaging magnets, etc........

100C? Thats like 230 degrees! Thats pretty intense for a stock motor.

A overheating a motor can be distinguished by checking the color change of the brushes, and of course touching the motor can. I usually started by using the gearing suggested by the manual. Then I checked the temperature of the motor can, and brushes color.

When I discover the gearing is too high, the brushes are already bad, and the motor can has too much heat. I end up changing brushes a lot of times, and keep trying smaller pinions. However, I cannot ascertain the overheated motor is still at the peak of its performance after changing the brushes. (I have no dyno).

Instead of using a brand new motor for every practice, every heat and every final like those sponsored drivers, I want to save money on motor.

Is it possible to retune an overheated motor to peak performace and how? If not, I will just buy a new one.

i used to run mod motors..........


yesterday i ran stock race for the first time........

everybody was running trinity monster stock tuned by the same guy.........

I ran a very, very old P2k, its comm diameter is only 6.78mm!!!

I TQ'd by 0,3s (the fastest laps are counted to line up the starting grid)........my best laptime was 14.68s....

I didn't win due to a broken rear belt........:flaming:

I ran locked 24 degrees timing, matrix 767 brushes (same as reedy ones), red spring on (+) and green spring on (-), one drop of TRIBO on each brush face before every race start......

final gear ratio was 6.2.....the straight lenght is more less 40m.....

at the end of a race my motor reached 90ºC on the brush hoods........i couldn't hold my finger on the can for more than 1 second.........

Wow....overheaded huh? Well, if its all black colored, then your basically S^%$d. If a different color, then u can replace the can, re-zap the magnets, replace the brushes, and might wanna change that comm. If all else fails, just go buy a new one.. It's sort of a massle to do all this.. kinda pointless.

If the motor was truely overheated, the comm is usually shot. The can can be rezapped and used however.

I have never personally burned up a motor. But, as others have mentioned, if you are ever in doubt about gearing, start with a small pinion and work your way up.
Every motor has a sweet spot when it comes to grearing. If overgearing was the cause of the overheated motor, you were way over that sweet spot.
To find the correct gearing, you normally start low and work your way up 1 tooth at a time. You will notice your lap times start dropping with this method. Then when your lap time start to rise again, you know you are now too high and you back off 1-2 teeth. Normally you can over gear by several teeth before you start to over gear the motor.