Exotek F1R
#1171
I'm waiting for that ifs too...
#1174
Any pre-release pics by chance?
#1175
Tech Initiate
Mike and Aaron - thanks for all the help and advice over the last month or so!
I just returned from the IIC in Vegas, which was the first "big" race I ever attended. As far as I know I was the only one with an F1R2. I qualified 10th and won the B-Main, which earned me the last spot in the A-main later in the day. In the A-main I was able to work from 10th up to 4th.
I am by no means a pro, and I feel I could have done better had I figured some things out earlier (traction was crazy high).
I just wanted to say that in the face of the CRC WTF1 craze, the F1R2 is the chassis I believe in.
Can't wait to get my hands on that IFS now!
I just returned from the IIC in Vegas, which was the first "big" race I ever attended. As far as I know I was the only one with an F1R2. I qualified 10th and won the B-Main, which earned me the last spot in the A-main later in the day. In the A-main I was able to work from 10th up to 4th.
I am by no means a pro, and I feel I could have done better had I figured some things out earlier (traction was crazy high).
I just wanted to say that in the face of the CRC WTF1 craze, the F1R2 is the chassis I believe in.
Can't wait to get my hands on that IFS now!
#1176
I used Aaron's set up from page 59 of this forum for the most part.
I still run the stock tamiya front end though with 1.5 degrees camber, and I tend to favor the tamiya soft front springs over the Associated ones.
I added 4.5mm under the upper shock ball stud, but only becuase I didn't have one long enough to accomodate 6mm worth of spacers - I want to try this out soon.
The biggest thing for me was the Tamiya AW (anti-wear) grease as the diff lube. Aaron decribed his method with this recently on this forum and it is amazing!
One thing I noticed at both the IIC in Vegas and at my home track of 5280 raceway, is that I can carry a lot more corner speed though high speed sweepers that any other chassis, now I want to find a little more nimbleness though the tight sections.
I have a CRC WTF1 as well and even after tuning all I could I was .500 second slower than my F1R2.
Preparations are already underway for next year's IIC - it was amazing!
I still run the stock tamiya front end though with 1.5 degrees camber, and I tend to favor the tamiya soft front springs over the Associated ones.
I added 4.5mm under the upper shock ball stud, but only becuase I didn't have one long enough to accomodate 6mm worth of spacers - I want to try this out soon.
The biggest thing for me was the Tamiya AW (anti-wear) grease as the diff lube. Aaron decribed his method with this recently on this forum and it is amazing!
One thing I noticed at both the IIC in Vegas and at my home track of 5280 raceway, is that I can carry a lot more corner speed though high speed sweepers that any other chassis, now I want to find a little more nimbleness though the tight sections.
I have a CRC WTF1 as well and even after tuning all I could I was .500 second slower than my F1R2.
Preparations are already underway for next year's IIC - it was amazing!
#1177
I used Aaron's set up from page 59 of this forum for the most part.
I still run the stock tamiya front end though with 1.5 degrees camber, and I tend to favor the tamiya soft front springs over the Associated ones.
I added 4.5mm under the upper shock ball stud, but only becuase I didn't have one long enough to accomodate 6mm worth of spacers - I want to try this out soon.
The biggest thing for me was the Tamiya AW (anti-wear) grease as the diff lube. Aaron decribed his method with this recently on this forum and it is amazing!
One thing I noticed at both the IIC in Vegas and at my home track of 5280 raceway, is that I can carry a lot more corner speed though high speed sweepers that any other chassis, now I want to find a little more nimbleness though the tight sections.
I have a CRC WTF1 as well and even after tuning all I could I was .500 second slower than my F1R2.
Preparations are already underway for next year's IIC - it was amazing!
I still run the stock tamiya front end though with 1.5 degrees camber, and I tend to favor the tamiya soft front springs over the Associated ones.
I added 4.5mm under the upper shock ball stud, but only becuase I didn't have one long enough to accomodate 6mm worth of spacers - I want to try this out soon.
The biggest thing for me was the Tamiya AW (anti-wear) grease as the diff lube. Aaron decribed his method with this recently on this forum and it is amazing!
One thing I noticed at both the IIC in Vegas and at my home track of 5280 raceway, is that I can carry a lot more corner speed though high speed sweepers that any other chassis, now I want to find a little more nimbleness though the tight sections.
I have a CRC WTF1 as well and even after tuning all I could I was .500 second slower than my F1R2.
Preparations are already underway for next year's IIC - it was amazing!
the 6mm for the shock angle was for a better and more consistent stroke in the shock. I used a female ballstud and put a screw through the bottom of the u-plate (I used a screw because they are cheaper than a longer ballstud). it allows you to run lighter weight shock oil but still have better dampening. thats one of the main reasons i can run such light weight shock oil
if youre ever at the track and want to try something for nimbleness: try adding 1mm to the front and rear of the side links. leave the football alone. adding those shims is equivalent to raising your roll center. keep in mind that you will have to raise your side spring 1mm to compensate for the higher side link!
#1178
Hey Aaron,
Do you by chance have a setup for asphalt? I found your carpet setup on pg. 59.
What what you change to suit asphalt? I mainly run at night on low to med grip surface.
On our track the Ride R1 rears and pit 571 fronts seems to work well, so i will be running these tyres.
I just completed my Exotek F1R2 build with TRF101 front end.
Thanks.
Do you by chance have a setup for asphalt? I found your carpet setup on pg. 59.
What what you change to suit asphalt? I mainly run at night on low to med grip surface.
On our track the Ride R1 rears and pit 571 fronts seems to work well, so i will be running these tyres.
I just completed my Exotek F1R2 build with TRF101 front end.
Thanks.
#1179
Hey Aaron,
Do you by chance have a setup for asphalt? I found your carpet setup on pg. 59.
What what you change to suit asphalt? I mainly run at night on low to med grip surface.
On our track the Ride R1 rears and pit 571 fronts seems to work well, so i will be running these tyres.
I just completed my Exotek F1R2 build with TRF101 front end.
Thanks.
Do you by chance have a setup for asphalt? I found your carpet setup on pg. 59.
What what you change to suit asphalt? I mainly run at night on low to med grip surface.
On our track the Ride R1 rears and pit 571 fronts seems to work well, so i will be running these tyres.
I just completed my Exotek F1R2 build with TRF101 front end.
Thanks.
the setup is almost identical just change the diff lube and the side springs. I do not have much experience with the ride tires but i know that my setup works well with both shimi and sweep and tamiya kits. If rides are the best tire for your track Im sure the setup will be an ok starting point.
Front:
4.0mm hide height
8.0 degrees caster
Associated 0.016 front springs
-1.5 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Standard Tamiya In-line front axle
2mm bump steer (the steering links should be slightly pointing down toward the center of the car at hide height “\ servo /”)
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
25 weight (Associated oil)
Tamiya fluorescent Red Spring (looks like orange though)
1mm droop (thread lock the spring retainer onto the shock shaft)
raise the rear female ball stud 6mm for better shock movement
Side Suspension:
Associated kit silver spring (asphalt)
10-15K oil in dampers
No washers under any of the side links
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
34/86 gearing (64 pitch)
Casper Rc Diff lube on diff balls. Ae stealth lube is also good (asphalt)
4.0 mm ride height
*Tip: if your bearing insert is lose inside of the rear pod, the holes for the wing mount plate are drilled and tapped through to the axle. I used a slightly longer screw through the top hole to act as a setscrew.
Tires:
Pit 72 rear
Kit Tamiya front with stock foam
Cleaned tires with lighter fluid
LRP asphalt tire sauce. Whole rear and half front. Baked at 55 degrees C for 15 minutes. Tire tweak with no warmers is what i normally run though!
Other:
No Winglets
LRP X20
LRP short pack mounted forward
LRP SXX V2 mounted in the back with optional 3-barrel capacitor
X-ray servo saver
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and front nose piece. I run the McLaren front wing (The holes line up between nosepiece and wing. The old Ferrari wing will not line up with the F2012 nosepiece however)
Hope this helps!
Aaron
#1181
Awesome thanks Aaron.
#1182
Tech Initiate
Sunday, great Touring and F1 race in Vic la Gardiole(France), my friend was happy with his Exotek: pole position and victory. small asphalt track, sunny, 26°c and nice people.
no restriction in rules(just have fun), my friend'car was a F1R2 wifh 3racing(f103) front end, 17.5T motor and GQ tires.
no restriction in rules(just have fun), my friend'car was a F1R2 wifh 3racing(f103) front end, 17.5T motor and GQ tires.
#1183
Tech Master
iTrader: (60)
Does anyone have a decent starting setup for the F1R2 on low to medium traction carpet? My car feels ok but just mainly looking for more traction everywhere and a bit more stability thru the chicanes, here is my current setup, if its not on there its the kit settting.
Front:
4.0mm hide height
8.0 degrees caster (Exotek adjustable front arms)
Tamiya black front springs
-2.0 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
30 weight Associated oil
Tamiya Red Spring
2mm droop
Side Suspension:
Associated blue side spring
CRC 20k oil in dampers
1mm shim between plate and spring holder
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
32/100 gearing 64 pitch
Hudy super diff lube with cermaic diff balls
4.0 mm ride height
Tires:
Pit 74 front
Pit 57 rear
Liquid Gravity compound appiled to tires right before hitting the track after sitting on the warmers at 36C front 38C rear for 30 mins
Other:
Killshot HT/HT 21.5
Tekin RS SPEC
Trinity shorty run in the middle of the chassis (esc and receiver behind lipo)
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and McLaren front wing
Front:
4.0mm hide height
8.0 degrees caster (Exotek adjustable front arms)
Tamiya black front springs
-2.0 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
30 weight Associated oil
Tamiya Red Spring
2mm droop
Side Suspension:
Associated blue side spring
CRC 20k oil in dampers
1mm shim between plate and spring holder
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
32/100 gearing 64 pitch
Hudy super diff lube with cermaic diff balls
4.0 mm ride height
Tires:
Pit 74 front
Pit 57 rear
Liquid Gravity compound appiled to tires right before hitting the track after sitting on the warmers at 36C front 38C rear for 30 mins
Other:
Killshot HT/HT 21.5
Tekin RS SPEC
Trinity shorty run in the middle of the chassis (esc and receiver behind lipo)
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and McLaren front wing
#1185
Does anyone have a decent starting setup for the F1R2 on low to medium traction carpet? My car feels ok but just mainly looking for more traction everywhere and a bit more stability thru the chicanes, here is my current setup, if its not on there its the kit settting.
Front:
4.0mm hide height
8.0 degrees caster (Exotek adjustable front arms)
Tamiya black front springs
-2.0 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
30 weight Associated oil
Tamiya Red Spring
2mm droop
Side Suspension:
Associated blue side spring
CRC 20k oil in dampers
1mm shim between plate and spring holder
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
32/100 gearing 64 pitch
Hudy super diff lube with cermaic diff balls
4.0 mm ride height
Tires:
Pit 74 front
Pit 57 rear
Liquid Gravity compound appiled to tires right before hitting the track after sitting on the warmers at 36C front 38C rear for 30 mins
Other:
Killshot HT/HT 21.5
Tekin RS SPEC
Trinity shorty run in the middle of the chassis (esc and receiver behind lipo)
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and McLaren front wing
Front:
4.0mm hide height
8.0 degrees caster (Exotek adjustable front arms)
Tamiya black front springs
-2.0 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
30 weight Associated oil
Tamiya Red Spring
2mm droop
Side Suspension:
Associated blue side spring
CRC 20k oil in dampers
1mm shim between plate and spring holder
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
32/100 gearing 64 pitch
Hudy super diff lube with cermaic diff balls
4.0 mm ride height
Tires:
Pit 74 front
Pit 57 rear
Liquid Gravity compound appiled to tires right before hitting the track after sitting on the warmers at 36C front 38C rear for 30 mins
Other:
Killshot HT/HT 21.5
Tekin RS SPEC
Trinity shorty run in the middle of the chassis (esc and receiver behind lipo)
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and McLaren front wing
I just want to be sure after reading your setup... is your main spring the tamiya red or flourescent red spring?
First thing I would try is adding 5-10 grams to the esc receiver area. Trinity batteries are fairly heavy... your weight bias front to rear may be off a percent of two.
Aaron