craig santry

thanks!!

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Shakedown run of the F1R2 last weekend was fairly positive. Already on pace or surpassing my TRF101 on a lower traction parking lot track.

The Associated silver springs that come with the car....what rating is it closest to for the stock Tamiya side springs? (Tamiya pink, silver, gold, black??)

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

It sounds weird but a lot of us have gone to Tamiya AW Grease. Better out of the corner rip but easier to control because of minimal 'diffing out'.

Just make a 2nd spur gear/ balls combo so that it's easy to switch back and forth because cleaning it out to switch diff greases is too much trouble.

Switching back and forth is a handy set up option.

craig santry

thanks mike! ironically I use Tamiya aw grease in my mini diff. never thought about using it in f1. that's great. do you use it with standard or ceramic balls? thanks again

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Same concept

I just use standard. I end dropping and losing a few anyway lol.

JayL

Mike: It was great to meet you! Thanks for all the idea's and help. I am so glad I support a company with such a friendly and helpful owner Pretty sure I found my issue: a bent motor plate, the one opposite of the motor mount, going to order one today from you.

Couple of new questions
When running the kit front tires you can't run your wide rims in either front or rear, correct?
Also, you told me to put more tension on the center shock, do I want the chassis flat or like a V pointing up?

Thanks again for all you help and everything else

Jay

wheelz

the 3mm offset wheels are modeled for the foam (pit) style tires. I think only tamiya stock wheels and perhaps ride wheels may work with the stock tamiya rubber.

Typically you want the chassis level front to rear at ride height. if the car is too low, the chassis will be bent in the shape of a "V". if the center is too high it will invert and be "^". You can set the front ride height where you want it and then adjust the center shock up or down to make the rest of the car level.

JayL

Thanks Aaron! and thanks for your help at tamiya as well, with my diff and front tire questions Any chance you could post your complete setup from the Speedtech race?

wheelz

this is exactly what I ran

Front:
3.5mm hide height
8.5 degrees caster
Associated 0.016 front springs
-1.5 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Standard Tamiya In-line front axle
2mm bump steer (the steering links should be slightly pointing down toward the center of the car at hide height “\ servo /”)

Main Shock:
3-hole piston
20 weight (Associated oil)
Tamiya fluorescent Red Spring (looks like orange though)
1mm droop (thread lock the spring retainer onto the shock shaft)
raise the rear female ball stud 6mm for better shock movement

Side Suspension:
Associated kit silver spring (asphalt)
10-15K oil in dampers
No washers under any of the side links

Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
34/86 gearing (64 pitch)
Casper Rc Diff lube on diff balls (asphalt)
3.5 mm ride height
*Tip: if your bearing insert is lose inside of the rear pod, the holes for the wing mount plate are drilled and tapped through to the axle. I used a slightly longer screw through the top hole to act as a setscrew.

Tires:
Pit 72 rear
Kit Tamiya front with stock foam
Cleaned with Tuning Haus Tire Cleaner/ Conditioner
No tire sauce

Other:
Winglets with 0 grams on each side
Reedy Sonic 2 Motor
Reedy short pack mounted forward
LRP SXX V2 mounted in the back with optional 3-barrel capacitor
X-ray servo saver
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and front nose piece. I run the McLaren front wing (The holes line up between nosepiece and wing. The old Ferrari wing will not line up with the F2012 nosepiece however)

kineteks

Arron, I've seen an earlier body-off photo of your car without a battery, do you have a current shot with everything ready to go that you'd share? I'm particularly interested in how your speedo & RX are mounted. Is the speedo elevated so it doesn't contact the T-bar part of the main chassis?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Glad you could make the drive down to the awesome Tamiya track! We are lucky that it's our 'backyard' track and are able to test there year round

I do use our +3 wheels w/ the kit Tamiya front tires. The diameter is perfect so it makes gluing up pretty easy for f104 kit tires or Shimizu's.

Set up- what Aaron said

clint

iTrader: (24)

SOLD!

JayL

Aaron: more questions, sorry
How are you shimming the front for ride height? I have seen guys use alum shims or extra shims or no shims under the steering upright, that's why I ask

Also are you doing any front droop setting or just putting the stock shim on the front arm droop screw?

Lastly, Are you gluing the rear pit tire insert together? If so how and with what?

Thank you, eventually I will get it all, I promise

Jay

wheelz

Ride Height:
I run a total of 5mm shim for setting the axle height with the stock plastic Tamiya steering spindle. 5mm of total shims with the stock tamiya axle seems to be the least amount you can run and not put any preload onto the spring. If you are running the smaller aluminum one you would have to measure the difference and compensate with equal shims on both sides. Guys that are using no shims are most likely just utilizing the setscrew built into the axle or are trying to get "droop" by allowing the car to not be entirely engaged on the spring while the car is off the ground.

Right now, with the kit Tamiya medium front tires, my car has 2mm on top of the spindle and 3mm on the bottom. Typically with pit front tires i run 3mm on top and 2mm on the bottom.

The thing that I don't like with the old/ current suspension configuration is that in order to change ride height one has to move the spindle up or down. Doing that changes a lot of geometry all at once. Axle height, ride height, weight bias front to rear, and bump steer are all changed by changing the cars ride height with moving the spindle.

Droop:
I do not run any screws in the droop holes on the lower arms. I actually just cut those tabs off haha

Rear inserts:
I have found it both faster and easier just to use a single piece of strapping tape on the outside of the foam to keep it all together.

Do not worry about asking too many questions!! I've learned a lot over the last year or so about these cars (probably too many laps for my own good) and am more than happy to share what I have learned

Aaron

JayL

Aaron: ok even more

what timing on motor? I run the sonic 2 in my F1 as well
What esc settings, mostly any drag brake?

do you run the set screw in the front uprights?
do you put any shims under the front spring to help keep it from falling off and what e/c-clip do you run there, the big springy tamiya one, 9805478?

Last, so you run 6mm shims at the rear of the center shock, raising it up?

Thank you

Jay